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^art{|  Carolina  ^tate  (O^olbge 

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This  book  must   not  be 
taken    from    the    Library 


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AN 


EPITOME 


OF 

MR.  FORSYTH'S  TREATISE 

ON    THE 

CULTURE  AND  MANAGEMENT 

OF 

FRUIT-TREES. 

ALSO, 

NOTES    ON    AMERICAN    GARDENINO     AND     FRUITS 
WITH     DESIGNS     FOR    PROMOTING    THE    RIPEN- 
ING   OF    FRUITS,    AND    SECURING      THEM 
AS    FAMILT    COMFORTS  : 

AND    rURTHER, 

OF  ECONOMICAL  PRINCIPLES  IN  BUILDING 
FARMERS'  HABITATIONS. 


MiniUm 


BY  AN  AMERICAN  FARMER, 


PHILADELPHIA: 

PRINTED    BY    T.    L.    PLOWMAN, 

FOR    JOHN    MORGAN,    NO.  26,    BOUTH    THIRD- 
STREET. 

1803. 


I 


ADVERTISEMENT. 


THERE  is  a  difference  respecting  country 
habitations  as  they  are  recommended  by  the  au- 
thor of  essays  and  notes  on  husbandry,  and  what  is 
said  of  country  habitations  in  this  work.  The  for- 
mer was  written  upon  the  happening  of  certain 
events,  which  seem  to  have  induced  a  hasty  recom- 
mendation of  the  principles  on  which  to  build  coun- 
try habitations,  with  the  especial  purpose  of  effec- 
tually guarding  against  their  being  destroyed  by 
fiia2,  and  also  particularly  for  preventing  their  be- 
ing easily  broke  into  by  force  or  surprise.  At 
first,  it  was  published  singly,  in  a  pamphlet ;  and 
afterwards  inserted  in  the  volume  of  collected  es- 
says and  notes  on  husbandry.  The  present  editor 
being  to  recommend  a  mode  of  building  country 
habitations  upon  more  enlarged  principles,  and  that 


ADVERTISEMENT. 

will  be  the  most  suitable  to  farms  in  America,  in 
particular;  some  considerable  alterations  are  de- 
signed, for  rendering  the  American  farmers'  habi- 
tations not  only  secure  against  fire,  but  also  the  best 
adapted  to  the  business  and  employments  of  far- 
mers, and  the  habits  and  manners  of  country  peo- 
ple ;  at  the  same  time  that,  in  certain  situations, 
that  form  of  building  may  be  preferred,  and  the  air- 
holes in  the  recesses  occasionally  applied  in  the  de- 
fence of  the  doors  and  windows,  against  outrages 
of  burglars,  as  far  as  the  perfectly  square  angles  of 
a  building  will  admit  of  it. 

The  editor  has  condensed  this  work,  that  it 
might  not  run  into  a  high  price  :  but  the  author's 
thirteen  plates  of  engravings  could  not  be  omitted, 
and  it  is  hope^,  the  two  plates  now  added  will  be 
satisfactory  in  illustrating  'the  subjects  they  relate 
to — These  articles  of  expence  could  not  be  avoided. 


9JF /^.*df-y  ur/t^ 


A  TREATISE 


CULTURE  AND  MANAGEMENT 


FRUIT-TREES,  &c. 


OF   APRICOTS. 

The  names  and  qualities  of  Apricots  commonly  ciilti' 
vated  in  Engla?id,  ^c. 

JL  HE  Masculine  Apricot  is  small  and  round ;  the 
earliest  in  ripening,  about  the  end  of  ^uly,  in  Eng- 
land. It  is  chiefly  esteemed  for  its  tart  taste.  Red  to- 
wards the  sun ;  a  greenish  yellow  on  the  other  side. 
The  Orange :  large,  but  rather  dry  and  insipid : 
fitter  for  tarts  than  for  the  table :  a  deep  yellow  co- 
lour when  ripe,  the  latter  end  of  August.  It  is 
considered  the  best  for  preserving,  in  England.  The 
Algiers:  a  flatted,  oval  shaped  fruit;  a  straw  co- 
lour, juicy,  and  high  flavour.  Ripens  the  middle 
of  August,  in  England. — The  Roman:  larger  than 
the  Algiers,  rounder  ;  of  a  deep  yellow,  and  not 
quite  so  juicy.  Ripe  the  middle  or  end  of  August, 
in  England.     The  Turkey :   larger  than  the  Ro- 

xAtmry 


s^^--.v^^.V 


(     2     ) 

man  ;  sharper,  more  globular,  flesh  firmer  and  dri- 
er :  ripens  the  end  of  August,  in  England.  The 
^r(?fi^^  is  large,  round,  and  deep  yellow  :  the  flesh 
soft  and  juicy  :  an  excellent  fruit.  Ripe  the  end 
of  August,  in  England.  The  Brussels :  in  very 
great  esteem  ;  bearing  well  on  standards  and 
large  dwarfs.  The  fruit,  a  middling  size,  red 
towards  the  sun,  with  many  dark  spots;  of  a 
greenish  yellow  on  the  other  side.  It  has  a  brisk 
flavor;  not  mealy  or  doughy.  On  a  wall,  ri- 
pens in  August ;  but  not  till  the  end  of  September 
in  standards,  in  England.  Moor-park,  called  also, 
Anson's,  Temple's,  and  Dunmore's  Breda  :  a 
fine  fruit;  ripens  end  of  August,  in  England. 
The  Peach-apricot:  the  finest  and  largest  of  all 
apricots ;  ripens  in  August,  in  England.  The 
Black-apricot :  highly  esteemed  in  France  :  this  is 
also  called  the  Alexandrian  apricot ;  and,  says  For- 
syth, it  will  prove  an  acquisition  in  England. 

Mr.  Forsyth  then  gives,  a  regular  succession  of 
fruit  for  accommodating  those  who  have  small  gar- 
dens, from  the  larger  selections  ;  retaining  only  the 
best  kinds ;  of  which  one  or  two  trees  of  a  sort 
may  be  planted,  according  to  the  wants  of  families. 
The  likeselection  he  appliesto  other  fruits — peaches, 
plums,  pears,  &:r.  -n^^^ij 


(     3     ) 

A  SELECTION  OF  APRICOTS  FOR 
A  SMALL  GARDEN. 

The  Masculine ;    the   Roman ;    the  Orange ;    the 
Breda ;  and  the  Moor- Park. 

Of  Plantings  Primings  and  Training  Apricots^  in 
England. 
PLANT  in  autumn^  soon  as  the  leaf  begins  to  fall. 
Choose  from  the  nursery,  those  having  the  strong- 
est and  cleanest  stems.  If  they  have  been  previ- 
ously headed  dov/n,  of  two  or  three  years  growth, 
they  w  ill  bear,  and  fill  up,  sooner  than  others. — 
Prefer  them  with  one  stem.  If  there  be  two  stems, 
cut  away  one,  however  fair. 

The  borders  wherein  the  trees  are  to  be  planted, 
if  new,  are  to  be  made  two  and  a  half,  or  three  feet 
deep,  of  good,  light,  fresh  loam.  If  to  be  planted 
where  trees  had  stood,  it  may  be  proper  to  take 
Out  the  old  mould,  at  least  three  feet  deep  and  four 
feet  wide,  filling  up  with  fresh  loam  ;  and  plant  the 
trees  eight  inches  higher  than  the  level  of  the  old 
border,  to  allow  for  sinking  of  the  earth,  that  they 
may  not  be  too  deep  in  the  ground  ;  but  more  of 
this  in  treating  of  Pear-trees. 


(   4  ) 

When  the  trees  are  planted,  by  no  means  head 
them  down  till  Jpril  or  May,  when  they  begin  to 
throw  out  fresh  shoots.  Cut  siroiig  trees,  a  foot 
from  the  ground ;  the  v:eak  ones,  about  half  that 
length. 

In  backward  seasons,  head  dowji  not  so  early ; 
never  till  the  buds  are  fairly  broken ;  alM'ays  cut 
sloping  (towards  the  wall,  if  a  wall  is  intended,) 
and  as  near  to  an  eye  as  possible,  that  the  young 
leading  shoot  may  cover  the  cut,  [pi.  I.  fig.  1.] 
which  operation  should  be  again  performed  in  the 
ensuing  March  or  April.  The  shoots  that  are  then 
thi'own  out  are  to  be  trained  horizontally,  to  cover 
the  Mall.  The  number  to  be  left  may  be  three  to 
six  on  each  side,  according  to  the  strength  of  the 
main  shoot.  With  finger  and  thumb  rub  off  the 
foreright  shoots  all  over  the  tree,  except  a  few,  if 
wanted,  to  fill  up  the  wall,  near  the  body  of  it. 
[pi.  I.  fig.  1.] 

In  the  second  year  shorten  the  horizontal  shoots 
in  the  sanie  manner,  according  to  their  g^o^vth  ; — 
and  so  on,  every  year,  till  the  ivall  is  completely 
covered  from  top  to  bottom. 


(     5     ) 

Some  gai-deners  head  dow  n  the  trees  at  the  time 
of  plaming ;  which  often  proves  fatal  to  them. 

Where  large  branches  have  been  cut  off,  from 
fuU-groivn  trees,  in  a  careless  manner,  and  the 
wounds  left  to  nature,  the  ^vhole  tree  is  infected 
with  the  gum  and  canker.  In  which  case,  to  save 
or  restore  the  tree's  fruitfulness  and  health,  pare  off 
the  cankered  part  of  the  bark  v,  ith  a  draw-knife. 
Often  the  white,  inner  bark,  is  found  infected, 
which  also  is  to  be  cut  away  ;  not  leaguing  a  single 
brown  or  black  spot  ;  which  are  like  dots  made  with 
a  pen. 

All  the  branches  so  cut  and  pared,  are  instantly 
to  be  ccoered  with  the  composition  in  a  liquid  state  : 
the  preparation  and  application  wherecf,  see  post. 
Wherever  the  knife  has  been  used,  the  composi- 
tion tnust  be  immediately  applied. 

I  have,  says  Mr.  Forsyth,  a  great  dislike  to  au- 
tumnal pruning  of  fruit-trees  ;  especially  of  stone 
fruit.  By  pruning  these,  the  canker  is  apt  to  fol- 
low it.  In  the  spring,  when  the  sap  begins  to  flow, 
and  will  foUon-  the  knife,  the  lips  will  quickly 
grow. 


(     6     ) 

Covering  apricots  (and  other  fruit-trees)  will 
prevent  the  blossom  from  destruction  by  frost, 
cutting  winds,  &c.  In  severe  weather  cover  them 
before  the  Jiowers  begin  to  expand ;  for  they  often 
drop  off  before  they  are  opened. 

The  best  covering  is  old  fsh-nets,  put  on  three- 
fold ;  with  a  few  branches  of  dry  fern,  stuck  in 
among  the  branches  before  the  nets  are  put  on- 
They  assist  greatly  in  breaking  high  winds.  The 
practice  of  covering  with  mats  in  the  night,  and 
taking  them  off  in  the  day,  is  injurious  in  exposing 
the  trees  frequently  to  the  cutting  winds.  Cover- 
ing with  branches  of  spruce  fir,  is  also  injurious, 
from  being  too  close,  and  promoting  the  curl  of  the 
leases  of  the  trees,  and  the  shoots  to  break  very 
weak ;  whereas  the  nets  admit  of  a  free  circulation 
of  air,  3'ct  break  the  force  of  the  winds.  It  rains 
or  sno\\  s,  sometimes,  in  the  forepart  of  the  night, 
and  freezes  towards  morning ;  the  drops  are  then 
found  hanging  in  icicles  on  the  meshes,  while  the 
tree  is  almost  dry. 

In  England,  a  west  aspect  is  reckoned  preferable 
for  the  general  crop.  A  ^cw  trees  they  plant  on  a 
South  aspect,  for  an  early  supply ;  and  for  a  late 
supply,  a  few  on  an  cast  aspect. 


(     7     ) 

* 

PLUMS, 

Selected  by  Mr.  Forsyth  for  a  small  garden,  in  Eng- 
land;  ivith  certain  notices  on  their  culture,   yc. 

there. 
THE  selection  recommended  by  Mr.  Forsyth  for 
his  small  garden,  consists  of — The  Jaunhative ; 
Early  Damask  ;  Orleans  ;  La  Royal ;  Green  Gage 
(sorts)  ;  Draps  d'Or  ;  Saint  Catherine,  and  Impe- 
ratrice.  The  Magnum  Bonum,  for  baking ;  and 
the  Winesour,  for  preserving. 

Of  the  Jaunhatiije,  Mr.  Forsyth  observes,  it  is 
a  small  plum  (by  some  called  White  Prismordian), 
of  a  yellow  colour,  and  mealy.  Ripe,  the  end  of 
July,  or  first  of  August.  One  tree,  he  says,  is 
sufficient  for  a  garden. 

The  Early  Damask,  commonly  called  the  Mo- 
rocco Plum,  is  middle  sized,  the  flesh  good.  Ri- 
pens in  early  August. 

The  Red  Orleans,  is  large;  rich  juice.  Ripe  end 
of  August. 

La  Royal;  a  fine  Plum,  equal  to  the  Green 
Gage ;  but  a  shy  bearer ;  of  a  red  colour.  Ripens 
late  in  September. 


(     8     ) 

Green  Gage  ;  several  varieties,  and  all  good.  Is 

of  an  exquisite  taste  ; — eats  like  a  sweetmeat.  Its 

colour  and  size  distinguish  it  from  any  other.  Ri- 
pens in  August  and  September. 

Drap  d'Or  is  a  good  Plum — a  plentiful  bearer. 
Ripe  late  in  September. 

Saint  Catherine  Plum  is  one  of  the  best — much 
used  in  confectionary  ;  also  very  good  for  the  tAble, 
having  a  rich  sweet  juice  ;  and  is  a  good  bearer, 
hanging  the  longest  of  any  upon  the  tree  :  some- 
times six  weeks  in  gathering.  Ripens  late  in  Sep- 
tember. 

The  Impcratricc^  or  Empress  Plum,  has  an  agree- 
able flavor  :  Ripens  the  middle  of  October.  This 
is  one  of  the  latest  Plums — should  not  be  gathered 
till  it  begins  to  shrivel ;  it  will  then  eat  like  a  sweet- 
meat, and  make  a  great  addition  to  the  table  in  the 
latter  end  of  October  and  beginning  of  Noiiember. 

On  tlie  choice^  plantings  pruning^  ^c.  of  Plum- 
Trees,  sec  those  treated  of  under  Apricots,  ante. 
If  there  are  any  tap-roots,  cut  them  off;  and  also 
tlic  fine  hairy  roots,    they  being  liable  to  become 


(  9  ) 

mouldy  and  rot.  If  the  roots,  says  Mr.  Forsyth, 
are  not  spread  near  the  surface  of  the  ground,  it  will 
prevent  the  sun  and  air  from  penetrating  to  them ; 
and  the  fruit,  of  course,  will  not  have  so  fine  a  fla- 
vour. 

Never  cut  the  stems  of  young  Pkim-trees  when 
first  planted,  but  leave  them  till  the  buds  begin  to 
break ;  then  they  may  be  headed  down  to  five  or 
more  eyes,  always  observing  to  leave  an  odd  one 
for  the  leading  shoot :  observing  to  cut  sloping  to- 
wards the  wall,  and  as  near  to  an  eye  as  possible. 

Speaking  of  the  distance  between  the  trees,  Mr. 
Forsyth  says,  Plum-trees  should  be  planted  accord- 
ing to  the  height  of  the  wall,  (when  not  a  standard.) 
If  the  wall  be  ten  feet  high  (the  common  height), 
they  may  be  planted  eight  yards  distance  from  tree 
to  tree.  If  the  Mall  be  tM  elvc  feet  high,  or  more, 
seven  yards  will  suffice. 

By  training  an  upright  shoot  on  the  Plums,  as 
for  Pears,  there  will  be  gained  fine  kind  shoots 
from  the  sides.  Shorten  the  leading  shoot,  lead- 
ing it  one  to  two  feet  long,  according  to  its  strengtii. 


(      10     ) 

Plum-trees  intended  for  standards^    (as  the  cU- 
niate  of  America  prefers  for  all  fruit-trees,  not  ab- 
solutely exotic),  Mr.  Forsyth  recommends  should 
in  England,    be  prepared  as  follows  : — The  yea' 
before  they  are  meant  to  be  transplanted^  cut  in  th( 
side  shoots  at  different  lengths,    from  one  foot  t( 
three,  according  to  the  size  of  the  trees  ;   sufferin.t 
them  to  grow  rude  all  the  summer,    without  rail 
ing-in  nor  cutting  the   side  and  foreright  shoots 
Sometimes  during  w  inter  open  the  ground  roum 
their  roots,  and  cut  in  the  strong  ones  (for  promo 
ting  the  putting  forth  fine  young  fibres) ;    then  fil 
in  the  eiu'th.     In  the  following  autumn,   or  durin^ 
the  winter  (the  sooner  the  better),  transplant  them 
out,  as  standards.     He  considers  it  to  be  of  great 
consequence,  in  transplanting  trees,    especially  if 
largtj,  that  they  be  placed  in  the  same  position,  that 
is,  having  the  same  parts  facing  the  same  points  of 
the  compass  as  formerl}\    When  a  tree  is  cut  down, 
three  parts  in  four  of  the  growth,    appear   on  the 
north  side.     If,  however,   it  is  intended  to  plant 
them  against  a  wall^  never  cut  the  side  shoots,  says 
Mr.  Forsyth,  h\iX.o?dy  the  roots ;  by  v/hich  the  trees 
will  bear  fruit  the  iirst  year  after  transplantii^g. 


(  11  ) 

The  ground  in  the  borders  and  quarters  should 
be  well  trenched,  two  spits  deep,  where  fresh  trees 
are  to  be  planted  ;  to  give  the  roots  room  to  run  in- 
to the  fresh  stirred  ground. 

Plum-trees,  as  standards,  in  an  orchard  to  be 
kept  for  grass,  should  be  in  rows  twenty  yards  from 
each  other,  says  Mr.  F. — If  in  the  kitchen  garden, 
as  standards,  he  recommends  that  they  be  dvjarfs. 
They  may  be  trained  up  to  have  a  stem  three  feet 
high,  at  the  distance  of  seventeen  yards. 

D^warf  standards  can  be  kept  to  the  size  you 
please.  They  look  much  handsomer  than  Espali- 
ers, and  produce  a  greater  quantity  of  fruit. 

In  cold,  frosty  weather,  cover  Plums  in  the  same 
manner  as  Apricots,  as  above.  They  are  more 
tender  than  other  sorts  of  stone  fruit ;  the  flower- 
cup  dropping  sooner. 

Do  not  thin  the  fruit  too  soon,  lest  it  be  pinched 
by  the  cold.  The  fruit  is  to  be  the  size  of  a  small 
marble,  and  well  sheltered  by  the  leaves,  before  it 
be  thinned. 


(     12     ) 

PEACHES, 

Selected  by  Mr.  Forsyth,  for  a  small  garden  in  Eng- 
land; "iuith  his  observations  on  their  culture ^  ^c. 
THE  selection  of  peaches  for  a  small  garden,  in 
England ;  consists  of,  the  Early  Avant ;  Small 
Mignonne;  the  Ann  Peach  ;  Royal  George;  Royal 
Kensington ;  Noblesse  ;  Early  Newington  ;  Gal- 
lande  ;  Early  Purple  ;  Chancellor  ;  Nivette  ;  the 
Catherine  ;  the  Late  Newington. 

The  Early  Avant  has  an  agreeable  flavor  ;  ripens 
in  Augusty  early. 

The  Small  Mignonne,  is  very  red  next  the  sun  ; 
the  flesh  has  a  rich  vinous  juice  :  It  is  ripe  about 
the  middle  of  August. 

The  Ann  Peach,  a  fine  early  fruit :  ripens  the 
middle  or  end  of  August. 

The  Boyal  George,  comes  in  soon  after  the  Ann, 
The  flower  large  and  white :  the  fruit  a  dark  red 
towards  the  sun,  and  full  of  a  fine  rich  juice.  Ri- 
pens the  end  of  August. 


(      13     )      . 

The  Royal  Kensington^  is  one  of  the  best  peaches 
in  England.  Of  a  high  red  colour  next  the  sun ; 
yellowish  next  the  wall :  a  good  bearer,  not  apt  to 
be  blighted.  The  flesh  is  full  of  rich  juice.  Ripens 
near  the  end  of  August  or  early  in  September. 

The  Noblesse^  large  ;  of  a  bright  red  colour  to- 
wards the  sun  :  the  flesh  melting,  and  the  juice  very 
rich.  A  good  bearer ;  ripens  the  beginning  of  Sep- 
tember. 

Early  Newifigton,  beautiful  red  towards  the  sun, 
full  of  a  sugary  juice :  ripens  beginning  o^ September. 

The  Gallande  or  Bellegarde ;  is  \ery  large,  a  deep 
purple  towards  the  sun  ;  the  flesh  melting  and  full 
of  aver}' rich  juice.  "  This  is  a  fine  peach;"  ripens 
the  middle  of  September. 

The  Early  Purple^  This  fruit  is  large  ;  of  a  fine 
red  colour,  and  full  of  rich  vinous  juice.  Is  an  ex- 
cellent peach  :  ripens  about  the  middle  of  August. 

The  Chancellor^  one  of  the  best  sort  of  peaches ; 
of  a  fine  red  next  the  sun;  the  skin  is  thin,  the  flesh 
melting,  the  juice  very  rich.  Ripens,  beginning  of 
September. 


(      14     ) 

The  NhettCy  of  a  bright  red  next  the  sun ;  yellow- 
kh  cast  towards  the  wall ;  the  flesh  melting,  and 
full  of  a  rich  juice.  An  excellent  peach:  ripens 
the  middle  of  September. 

The  Catherine^  a  fine  large  peach :  a  round  make, 
and  beautifully  red  towards  the  sun.  The  flesh  is 
melting,  and  full  of  rich  juice.  "  The  pulp  is  im- 
proved by  lying  three  or  four  days  before  it  is  eaten'* 
(says  Mr.  F.)  Ripens  about  the  latter  end  of  Octo- 
ber ;  but  there  are  not  many  situations  where  it  ri- 
pens well.     Is  a  plentiful  bearer. 

The  Old  Nevjhigton,  is  of  a  fine  red  colour ;  has 
a  high  vinous  tasted  juice,  and  esteemed  a  good 
Pavie  (clingstoned.)    Ripens,  the  e?id  of  September. 

Planting,  Pruning,  Training,  ^c.  Peaches  in 
England. 
Peaches  require  alighter  soil  than  Pears  and  Plums. 
A  light  mellow  loam  is  best.  In  the  choice  of  Peach 
Trees,  as  to  health,  8^c.  see  of  Apricots,  &c.  Pro- 
cure them  the  end  of  October  or  early  in  Noiiembcr, 
as  soon  as  the  leaf  begins  to  fall ;  and  best  that  the 
ground  be  ready  before  hand.  It  is  a  great  hurt 
to  fruit  trees  when  planted  too  deep.  They  should 
be  kept  up  aboDC  the  level  of  the  old  ground,  at  first, 


(     15     ) 

when  planted,  water  the  roots  to  settle  the  mould, 
letting  it  remain  some  days  till  the  water  is  absorbed : 
then  J  tread  the  mould,  and  fill  the  holes  up  to  the  top ; 
observing  the  same  rules  as  before  given  in  case  of 
dry  weather,  letting  the  fresh  planted  trees  remain 
unpruned  till  the  spring. 

When  the  buds  begin  to  shoot,  if  they  be  of 
maiden  trees  of  one  years  growth,  head\\i^vi\  to  five 
or  more  eyes,  according  to  their  strength :  then  rub 
on  a  little  of  the  composition^  where  the  top  is  cut 
off,  cutting  it  sloping,  as  before  said,  and  as  near  the 
top  buds  as  may  be ;  and  also  rub  off  the  fore-right 
shoots.  If  the  leading  shoot  be  very  strong,  pinch 
off  its  top,  the  beginning  of  June.  It  prevents  the 
shoots  growing  too  long  in  the  first  and  second  years, 
by  pinchmg  their  ends  :  but  they  should  not  be 
topped^  ^^  hen  the  tree  sends  out  fine  kind  shoots, 
till  the  spring  following^  when  they  are  to  be  pruned, 
according  to  the  strength  of  the  tree,  and  the  quan- 
tity of  wood  it  has  made  during  the  preceding  sum- 
mer, leaving  the  shoots  from  six  to  twelve  inches 
long ;  for  soon  filling  the  lower  part  of  the  wall.  If 
is  too  common  to  lov  in  the  shoots  at  f«ll  tenQ-th, 
taking  off  only  the  points  of  the  branches;  which  in 
a  fev/  years  is  apt  to  leave  the  u  all  naked  :   but  if 


'       (     16     ) 

attention  be  paid  to  the  training,  especially  for  the 
first  four  years  the  walls  could  always  be  filled  with 
fine  bearing  wood  from  top  to  bottom,  and  the  trees 
could  produce  a  deal  more  fruit,  of  a  finer  qua- 
lity, than  when  they  are  run  up  in  the  former  way ; 
for  those  trees  are  so  weak,  sometimes,  as  not  to 
have  strength  to  bear  good  fruit.  The  third  year, 
with  summer  attentions,  they  may  be  brought 
into  a  bearing  state.  If  from  very  strong  ground 
they  gro\\  very  vigorously,  the  strong  shoots  should 
be  pinched  about  Jiine^  for  making  them  throw  out 
side  shoots  ;  and  if  not  laid  in  too  thick,  thev  will 
make  fine  bearing  wood  for  the  next  year.  If  the 
strong  shoots  are  suffered  to  grow  their  full  length, 
they  will  be  large  and  spongy  ;  and  produce  neither 
fruit  nor  good  wood  for  the  following  year.  Weak 
shoots,  altho*  full  of  blossoms,  never  bear  good 
fruit.  Suffering  trees  to  be  once  'weakened from  abun- 
dance of  fruity  they  never  can  recover.  In  such 
cases,  pick  oft'  the  fruit,  that  the  tree  may  recover. 
[See  pi.  III.  Fig.  2.] 


(     17     ) 

When  Peaches  come  into  a  bearing  state,  in 
general,  there  will  be  soon  two  flower-buds^  and  it 
will  be  soon  what  is  called  a  wood-bud.  Alway3 
€ut  at  such  double  buds  ;  as  from  between  them, 
come  out  the  shoots  that  produce  the  fruit  for  next 
year,     £Seepl.III.  fig.  2.] 

NECTARINES. 
THEY  differ  from  the  Peach  in  nothing  more 
than  their  smooth  rind,  and  the  greater  firmness 
of  their  flesh. 

Select  Nectarines  for  a  small  garden. 
Fairchild's  Early  Nectarine ;  the  Elruge ;  Scar- 
let;  Murry  ;    Newington  j    Red  Roman.      The 
first  four  are  clcaristones  5    the  other  two  cling- 
stones. 

Nectarines  are  managed  nearly  as  Peaches.  The 
same  rules  of  pruning  and  cutting  out  diseased 
parts.     Thin  the  fruit  when  of  a  tolerable  size. 

PEARS. 

Their  Culture^  Selection^  'i^c.  in  England, 
FOR  a  small  garden  in  England,  Mr.  Forsyth  re- 
commends the  following  selection  oiPear'Trees  : 

s 


(      18     ) 

Summer  Pears  ;  the  Musk  ;  the  Green  Chisscl ; 
Jargonelle  ;  Summer  Bergamot  5  Summer  Bon- 
chretien. 

Autumn  Pears  ;  Orange  Bergamot;  Autumn 
Bergamot  ;  Gansel's  Bergamot ;  Brown  Beurre  j 
Doyenne,  or  St.  Michael ;  Swan's  Egg. 

Winter  Pears  :  Crasane  ;  Chaumontelle  ;  St. 
Germain  ;  Colmer  ;  D'Auch  ;  L'Esschasserie  ; 
Winter  Bonchretien ;  Bergamot  de  Fasque. 

The  above,  Mr.  F.  says,  will  furnish  a  regular 
succession  of  fruit. 

Of  the  sorts  an^  management  of  Pear-Trees^    in 
England. 
Observations  on  the  Pears  seledted  by  Mr.  For- 
syth for  a  fmall  garden,  given  in  the  preceding 
pages: 

I.  Summer  Pears.  There  are  several  Musk 
Pears,  spoken  of  by  Mr.  Forsyth. — The  Little 
Miisk^  or  Supreme  ;  good  only  a  few  days.  The 
Orange  Musk  ;  apt  to  be  dry.  The  Musk  Rohine 
Pear^  or  Qiieen's,  or  the  Amber,   is  small,  yel- 


(     19     ) 

low  when  ripe  ;  has  2<rich^  musky  flavor  ;  zgreat 
benrer  ;  ripens  the  end  of  August.  The  Musk 
Drone  ;  z  rich,  musky  taste :  apt  to  be  mealy, 
lest  on  the  tree  j  ripens  early  in  September.  The 
Musk  Orange  ;  the  skin  green,  the  flesh  melting  j 
ripens  early  September, 

The  Green-Chiisel,  or  Hasting's  Pear,  is  of  a 
middle  size  ;  always  remains  green,  and  is  full  of 
juice  when  ripe,  which  is  early  in  August, 

The  Jargonelle^  or  Cuisse  Madame.  Lady's 
Thigh.  It  is  somewhat  like  the  Windsor  ; — the 
skin  is  smooth,  of  a  pale  green  colour.  A  plenti- 
ful bearer  ;  but  is  apt  to  be  mealy,  if  left  stand- 
ing to  be  ripe,  which  is  middle  of  August, 

The  Summer  Bergamot^  or  Hamden's  Bergamot, 
has  a  melting  flesh,  and  a  juice  highly  perfumed. 
Ripens  the  end  o^  September. 

The  Summer  Bonckretien^  very  full  of  juice,  of 
a  rich  perfumed  flavor.  Ripens  the  middle  ot 
September. 

l\.  Autumn  Pears.     The  Orange  Bergamot* 


(     ^0     ) 

Autumn  Bergamot :  smaller  than  the  Summer 
Bergamot :  the  flesh  is  melting,  the  juice  highly 
perfumed.  A  great  bearer.  Ripens  early  in  Oc- 
tober. 

CanseWs  Bergamot. 

Brow7i  Beurre:  a  reddish  brown  next  the  sun, 
yellowish  on  the  other  side  ;  the  flesh  melting, 
full  of  rich  juice.  Ripens  in  October.  An  ex- 
cellent Pear. 

Doyenne^  or  St.  Michael. 

Siun?2'sEgg:  middle  size,  egg-shape;  green; 
flesh  melting,  full  of  pleasant,  muskyjuice.  Comes 
ni  eating  in  November ,     Bears  well. 

III.  Winter  Pears.  The  Crasane:  the  flesh 
extremely  tender  and  buttery,  full  of  rich  sugar- 
ed juice.  The  very  best  of  the  season:  comes 
into  eating  late  in  December. 

The  Chaumonteile  (wilding  of  Chaumontelle) 
is  melting;  the  juice  very  rich  :    is  in  eating  in 

January. 

The  St.  Germain  is  a  fine  fruit  and  keeps  long  ; 
the   flesh  is   melting,    and   very  full    of  juice  ; 


(     21     ) 

which,  in  a  dry  season  is  very  sweet :  it  is  in  eat- 
ing from  Dcce??iber till  February . — Note.  In  dry 
seasons^  fruit  should  not  be  suffered  to  sweat  so 
long  in  the  heaps,  as  directed  in  treating  of  ^aM^fr- 
ing  and  laying  up  fruit.  Perhaps  two  weeks  will 
be  long  enough,  says  Mr.  Forsyth. 

The  Colmar  Pear  is  very  tender ;  the  juice 
greatly  sugared.  Is  in  eating  about  the  first  of  y^- 
nuary.  The  D' Auch  Pear  much  resembles  the 
Colmar  ;  but  is  fuller  towards  the  stalk  ;  and  is 
in  eating  from  Christmas  to  April ;  "  and  without 
exception  is  the  be%t  of  all  the  winter  Pears '^ — 
VEsschaserie  has  flesh  melting  and  buttery;  the 
juice  sugary.  In  eating  early  in  January.  The 
IVinter  Bonchretien  Pear  is  very  large ;  the  flesh 
tender  and  breaking,  and  is  very  full  of  a  rich  su- 
gared juice.  It  is  in  eating  from  the  end  of  March 
till  June. 

The  Bergamotde  Pasque^  goes  also  by  the  names 
of,  the  Terling,  the  Amoselle,  the  Paddington 
and  the  Tarquin.  It  is  a  fine  handsome  fruit — 
green  when  gathered — yellowish  when  ripe. 
Comes  into  eating  in  Aprils  continues  till  June — 
and  makes  a  handsome  appearance  at  table. 


(     22     ) 

Mr.  Forsyth  advises,  that  instead  of  choosing 
young  Pcar-Trees  tQ  plant  out,   the  oldest  in  the 
nursery  should  be  looked  for  and  preferred,  with 
strong  stems  :   to  take  them  up   carefully  with  as 
much  root  as  possible,    and  carefully  plant  them, 
after  cutting  the  roots  a  little,   spreading  them  as 
horizontally  as  can  be.     Then  fill  up  all  round  the 
roots,  with  light,   dry  mould,  forcing  it  in  about 
those  which  lie  hollow  with  a  pointed  stick  ;  fill- 
ing the  whole  up  to  the  top,  without  treading  the 
mould  till  the  hole  is  first  filled  with  as  much  wa- 
ter as  it  will  contain,  leaving  it  a  day  or  two,  un- 
til the  ground  has  absorbed  the  water  :  then  throw 
on  some  fresh,  dry  mould,  and  tread  it  as  hard  as 
it  can  be;  fill  the  hole  up  again   with  mould  to 
within  an  inch  of  the  top,  and  give  it  a  second  wa- 
tering, leaving  the  mould  three  inches  higher  than 
the  border,  to  settle  of  itself,  and  receive  rain  that 
falls;  for  at  least  a  month.     W  hen  the  mould  is 
became  quite  dry,  it  may  be  trod  a  second  time ; 
then  make  a  large  bason  round  the  tree,   and  give 
it  another  watering  ;  then  mulch  the  top  over  with 
rotten  leaves  or  dung,    observing  to  water   the 
trees  once  a  week  in  dry  weather,    and  sprinkle 
the  tops  frequently  with  a  pot  or  hand-engine,  to 
keep  the  wood  fi'om  shrivelling  till  the  trees  have 
taken  fresh  root. 


(     23     ) 

In  planting  trees  against  a  wall,  let  the  stera 
stand  sloping  towards  it  ;  its  lower  part  being 
no  more  nor  less  than  six  inches  from  the  bottom 
of  the  wall,  that  the  stem  may  have  room  to  grow  ; 
and  let  the  stem  not  lean,  but  be  perfectly  up- 
right. When  standards  are  planted  a  foot  or  two 
from  the  wall,  it  gives  them  a  disagreeable  ap- 
pearance: sixinc/icsy  he  says,  will  be  full  enough. 

When  the  buds  begin  to  break  well,  head  the 
trees  to  three  or  four  eyes,  for  filling  the  wall 
with  fine  wood.  Never  head  them  afterwards, 
except  the  leading  shoot,  to  fill  the  wall ;  leaving 
the  foreright  shoots  to  be  pruned. — Mr.  F.  says, 
he  had  trees  giving  forty  Pears  the  second  year; 
while  some  of  the  same  kind  bore  only  eleven 
Pears  the  fourteenth  year  after  planting,  with  the 
common  method  of  pruning, 
t 

If  any  of  the  trees  get  stunted  after  a  number  of 
years,  nothing  more,  he  says,  is  to  be  done  but  to 
Aead  them^  as  he  directs,  which  will  restore  thcni 
into  fresh  vigour  and  fi'uitfulness. 

The  method,  he  says,  of  pruning  P(7Jr-//ro  is 
very  different  from  that  practised  for  ^Jpplc-trecs^ 


t 


(      24     ) 

in  general.  [See  pi.  VII.  Letters  C.  and  D.]   Mr. 

F.  supposes  it  would  be  between  twelve  and  four- 
teen years  before  he  could  obtain  any  fruit  from 
young  Pear-trees .  But  he  makes  a  comparative 
exper'rment  in  pruning  or  heading  Pear-trees.  He 
cut  down  four  old  and  decayed  Pear-trees,  of  dif- 
ferent kinds,  near  where  they  had  formerly  been 
grafted  :  this  was  performed  the  15th  May.  Find- 
ing that  they  put  forth  fine  shoots,  he  headed  down 
four  more  on  the  20th  of  June,  of  the  same  year, 
(by  which  time  the  former  had  shoots  a  foot  long), 
which  did  equally  well,  and  bore  some  fruit  in 
the  following  year.  One  of  the  first  four  headed 
down,  was  a  St.  Germain,  which  produced  nine- 
teen fine  large  well-fiavored  Pears  next  year,  [see 
Letter  B.  pi.  VII .3  and  in  the  third  bore  more  fruit 
than  in  its  former  state  it  ever  did,  when  it  was 
four  times  the  size.  He  left  seven  trees  upon  an 
east  wall,  treated  2iZZo\:d\i\^tQ>X.\\e  common  met  hod 
of  pruning^  which  bore  as  follows  : 

The  number  of  Pears  produced  upon  each  of 
seven  trees  that  had  been  treated  accordijig  to  the 
commoji  method  of  primings  viz. 

1.  Epine  d'Hyver  produced  eighty-si Ji  peai'S^ 
and  the  tree  spread  fifteen  yards. 

Library 


(     25     ) 

2.  A  Crasane  produced  one  hundred  Pears,  and 
the  tree  spread  fourteen  yards. 

3.  Another  Crasane  produced  sixteen  Pears,  and 

the  tree  spread  ten  yards. 

•• 

4.  A  Virgouleuse  produced  one  hundred  and  fif- 
ty Pears,  and  the  tree  spread  nine  yards. 

5.  A  Colmar  produced  one  hundred  aftd  fifty 
Pears,  and  the  tree  spread  nine  yards. 

6.  Another  Colmar  produced  seventy-nine  Pears, 
and  the  tree  spread  ten  yards. 

7.  A  L'Eschasserie  produced  sixty  Pears. ^ 

Compared  with  the  above, — seven  trees,  headed 
down  and  pruned  according  to  his,  Mr.  Forsyth's 
method,  leaving  the  foreright  shoots  in  summer, 
they  bore  as  follows,  in  the  fourth  year  after  heading: 

1.  A  Louisbonne  bore  four  hundred  and  sixty- 
three  Pears,  and  the  tree  spread  nine  yards. 

*  Total  641. 


(     26     ) 

2.  Another  Louisbonne  bore  three  hundred  and 
ninety-one  Pears,  and  spread  eight  yards. 

3.  A  Colraar  bore  two  hundred   and  thirteen 
Pears,  and  spread  six  yards. 

4.  A  Brown  Beurre  bore  five  hundred  and  three 
Pears. 

5.  Another  Brow  n  Beurre  bore  five  hundred  and 
fifty  Pears. 

6.  A  Crasane  bore   five   hundred  and  twenty 
Pears. 

7.  A  Virgouleuse  bore  five  hundred  and  eighty 
Pears,  t 

The  branches  of  the  four  last  trees  spread  nearly 
in  the  same  proportion  as  the  first  three, 

A  young  Beurre  the  second  year  after  heading' 
bore  230  Pears,  and  a  St.  Germain  400. 

t  Total  3220,     That  is  5  to  1. 


(     27     ) 

All  the  above  trees  stood  upon  the  same  aspect 
and  the  same  wall,  and  the  fruit  was  numbered  in 
the  same  year.  The  trees,?,pruned  according  to  the 
old  practice  covered,  at  least,  one  third  more  wall 
than  the  others. 

By  the  above  statement,  the  trees  headed  down 
bore  upwards  of  five  times  the  quantity  of  fruit  that 
the  others  did  ;  and  they  keep  increasing,  he  says, 
in  proportion  to  the  progress  of  the  trees. 

Add  to  this  vast  encouragement  and  superiority 
of  his  pruning,  that  on  the  20th  June,  Mr.  Forsyth 
headed  several  standards  that  were  nearly  destroyed 
by  the  canker ;  some  of  them  were  so  loaded  with 
fruit  the  following  year,  that  he  was  obliged  to  prop 
the  branches.  In  the  fourth  year  after  these  stand- 
ards were  headed  down,  one  of  them  bore  2840 
Pears.  On  the  same  border  were  three  standards, 
two  whereof  were  St.  Germains ;  the  old  trees  was 
of  the  same  kind.  One  of  these  trees,  twenty  years 
old,  had  five  hundred  Pears  on  it,  a  great  crop  for 
its  size  :  so  that  there  were  on  the  old  tree,  which 
had  been  headed  down  not  quite  four  years,  2340 
Pears  more  than  on  the  tree  of  t\\enty  year's  growth. 


(     28     ) 

Mr.  Forsyth  gives  a  curious  account  of  the  re- 
covering an  old  decayed  Pear-tree,  illustrated  with 
a  plate  (VIII.) — Restored  from  an  inch  and  half 
of  bark,  which  now  covers  a  v\all  sixteen  feet  high. 
In  1796,  it  bore  450  fine  large  Pears,  and  continues ' 
flourishing.  The  plate,  however,  is  so  badly  drawn 
as  to  be  scarely  worth  copying.  In  referring  to  the 
plate,  he  refers  to  "  fruit-buds  for  the  present  year — 
others  forming  for  next  year ;  and  old  footstalks  that 
bore  the  fruit  last  year  ;"  but  they  are  scarcely  in- 
telligible. 

The  following  Mr.  Forsyth  gives  as  his  method  in 
training  trees  that  are  cut  near  to  the  place  where 
they  were  grafted.  Every  year,  in  Mai'ch,  he 
shortens  the  leading  shoot,  to  a  foot  or  eighteen 
inches,  according  to  its  strength  ;  this  shoot,  if  the 
tree  be  strong,  will  grow  from  five  to  seven  feet  in 
one  season ;  and  if  left  to  nature  would  run  up  with- 
out throwing  out  side  shoots.  The  reason  for  thus 
shortening  the  leading  shoot,  is  to  make  it  throw 
out  side  shoots ;  and  if  done  close  to  a  bud,  it  fre- 
quently M  ill  cover  the  cut  in  one  season,  leaving  on- 
ly a  cicatrix,  as  at  f.  f.  f.  in  pi.  VIII.  which  shews 
every  year's  growth  ajid  cicatri x .  When  the  shoots 
are  very  strong,  he  cuts  the  leading  shoot  twice  in 


(     29     ) 

one  season ;  by  which  he  gets  two  sets  of  side  shoots 
in  one  year ;  v\  hich  enables  him  to  cover  the  Avail 
the  sooner.  The  frst  cutting  is  performed  any  time 
during  the  springs  and  the  second  the  middle  of 
June. 

He  directs,  when  you  prune  the  trees,  and  cut  the 
foreright  shoots,  which  is  to  be  in  February  or 
March,  always  cut  close  to  an  eye  or  bud,  observ- 
ing where  there  are  the  greatest  number  of  leaves  at 
the  lower  bud,  and  cut  at  them  ;  for  at  th^foot  stalk 
of  every  one  of  these  will  be  produced  a  flower  bud. 
The  same,  he  adds,  M-ill  hold  good  in  cutting  the  su- 
perfluous shoots  on  standard  Pears.  There  will  be 
in  some  sorts  of  Pears,  from  live  to  nine  Pears  in  a 
cluster.  This  cutting  is  to  be  not  later  than  March 
or  first  of  April,  because  of  the  leading  shoot  begin- 
ning to  grow  :  the  next  topping,  when  the  leading 
shoot  grows  quick  enough  to  admit  of  it,  will  be  the 
middle  of  June  ;  and  the  length  of  the  shoots  are  to 
be  according  to  their  strength,  having  from  three 
eyes  or  buds,  to  six  on  a  side. 

The  cankery  part,  he  says,  beginning  to  affect 
the  new  bark,  he  cut  off"  all  the  canker  at  the  bot- 
tom last  year,   and  plastered  the  place  a\  ith  cow- 


(     30     ) 

dung,  mixed  with  •wood  ashes  and  powder  of  burnt 
bones,  put  into  as  much  urine  and  soapsuds  as  would 
make  it  the  consistence  of  thick  paint.  It  was  laid 
on  with  a  painter's  brush.  After  being  applied  thi-ee 
hours,  it  was  patted  gently  down  with  the  hand, 
close  to  the  tree  :  by  which  the  air-bubbles  that 
may  hap  to  be  under  the  composition,  and  make 
it  adhere  to  the  tree,  preventing  its  being  washed 
off  by  rain,  are  got  rid  of. 

In  August^  early,  the  foreright  shoots  are  shorten- 
ed to  about  four  inches  long  ;  by  this  time  the  shoot 
will  have  made  its  full  growth  for  the  season,  and 
will  produce  fine  strong  eyes  for  the  following  year. 

The  tree  above  mentioned  had  a  decayed,  rotten 
root,  the  dead  part  of  which  he  cut  all  away,  till  he 
came  to  the  sound  wood.  Whenever  the  trunk  is 
hollow,  he  directs  that  it  be  followed  under  ground 
till  all  the  decayed  parts  and  rotten  roots  are  cut  out, 
otherwise  the  tree  will  be  lost. 

If,  savs  Mr.  Forsyth,  the  above  be  followed,  more 
Pears  \vill  be  got  in  three  or  four  years,  than  can  be 
m  twenty-five  }cars  by  planting  young  trees,  and 
pruning  and  managing  them  in  the  common  way. 


(     31     ) 

But  it  may  happen  that  the  Peai's  become  stunted 
after  cold  bhghting  winds,  and  frosty  nights  (as 
sometimes  seen  in  June  and  July*).  In  this  case, 
Mr,  Forsyth  recommends  a  new  and  bold  method 
of  operation,  when  the  weather  becomes  milder,  or 
begins  to  be  so  : 

He  says,  take  a  sharp  pen-knife,  and  with  its 
point  cut  through  the  rind  of  the  Pear,  from  the 
footstalk  to  the  eye,  as  if  it  were  a  bark-bound  tree, 
cutting  as  little  into  the  flesh  of  the  tree  as  possible. 
Beat  up  fresh  cow-dung  with  wood  ashes,  and  rub 
in  a  little  of  this  composition  with  the  fore  finger, 
where  the  cut  is  made. 

The  distance  he  gives  Pear-trees  against  walls, 
and  breadth  of  borders,  are  twelve  yards  :  but  the 
distances  vary  too  greatly  to  enter  into  detail.  Bor- 
ders should  be  10  to  20  feet  wide.  But  here  is 
much  extravagance. 


*  No  such  cold  weather  ever  happens  in  the  United 
States,  at  least  not  beyond  the  41".  So  far  from  it, 
it  is  thought  strange  there  should  be  frost  in  May. 


(     32     ) 
VINES. 

MR.  FORSYTH  selects  for  a  small  garden  in 
England,  the  following  Vines  : — The  JVhite  Musca- 
dine; White  Siveet  JVater ;  Black  Sweet  JVater  ;  large 
Black  Cluster ;  small  Black  Cluster  ;  the  Miller 
Grape,  St.  Peters,  and  the  Black  Hamburgh,  may 
do  very  well  in  favorable  seasons. 

The  White  Muscadine^  above  selected,  resembles 
the  Royal  Muscadine,  but  the  berries  ai"e  smaller. 
It  is  the  best  grape  for  a  common  wall,  and  a  great 
bearer.  Also  called  the  Common,  and  the  Chas- 
sclas. 

The  White  Sweet  Water.  The  berry  large,  a 
white  colour  ;  very  agreeable  juice.  Esteemed  an 
excellent  grape.     Ripens  in  September, 

The  Black  Sweet  Water.  Small  berry,  sweet ; 
but  apt  to  crack.     Not  much  in  repute.     Ripens  in 

September. 

The  large  Black  Cluster.  A  very  roup:h,  harsh 
taste.  Speechlay  says  it  is  the  grape  of  the  Opor- 
to  wine. 


(    33    ) 

The  small  Black  Cluster.     A  very  pleasant  fruit, 

The  St.  Peter's  Grape.  Large  oval  berries  j 
deep  black  ;  bunches  large  :  the  flesh  juicy,  jRir 
pens  late. 

The  Black  Hamburgh.  Bunches  large- — large 
berries — pleasant  sweet  juice,  vinous.  Ripens  in 
JSfovember. 

Cuttings  of  Vines,  take  from  shoots  the  best  ri? 
pened,  with  the  shortest  joints — always  with  onepr 
two  joints  of  the  last  year's  wood  :  cutting  it  as  near 
^  joint  of  the  old  wood  as  possible. 

Choose  cuttings  after  a  warm,  dry  season.  Eaci> 
.cutting  to  have  two  inches  of  the  old  wood,  with  onf 
<sye  of  the  new. 

Training  and  Pruning  Fiiies. 
In  1789,  says  Mr.  Fors}th,  I  let  two  strong 
^ranches  grow  to  full  length,  without  topping  them 
in  the  summer.  In  1790,  he  ti'ained  them  in  a  ser- 
pentine form,  [pi.  X.]  leaving  about  30  eyes  pi| 
;each  shoot,  which  produced  120  fiiie  bunches  of 
ffrapes,  weighing  from  one  pound  to  ^  ppun.^  pi><| 

F 


(     34     ) 

a  quarter  each.  All  v,  ho  saw  them  said  the  large 
ones  were  as  fine  as  forced  grapes  ;  while  the  small 
ones  produced  from  branches  of  the  same  Vine, 
trained  and  pruned  in  the  old  way,  were  bad  natu- 
ral grapes,  and  not  above  tw  ice  the  size  of  large 
ciUTants. 

To  confirm  this  experiment,  he  next  year  trained 
fiA'e  plants  in  the  s.tme  way,  allowing  the  shoots  in- 
tended for  bearing  wood  to  run  to  their  full  length 
in  summer,  training  wherever  there  Avas  a  vacancy 
])etween  the  old  trees  ;  a\  here  there  was  none,  he  run 
them  along  the  top  of  the  wall,  without  topping 
them.  •In  winter  he  trained  them  in  a  serpentine 
manner,  so  as  to  fill  the  waW  as  regularly  as  possi- 
ble :  they  were  as  productive  as  those  in  the  former 
yeai's. 

After  a  three  year's  trial,  he  thought  himself  war- 
ranted to  follow  the  same  practice  with  the  whole  ; 
and  in  1793,  he  sent  for  the  king's  use  378  baskets 
of  grapes ;  each  weighing  three  pounds,  \\  ithout 
planting  a  single  Vine  more  than  were  the  preceding 
year,  when  he  could  send  only  56  baskets  of  the 
same  weig'it.  The  above  proves  the  great  advan- 
tage of  the  serpentine  method  of  training  Vines. 


(     55     ) 

It  must  be  observed,  the  shoots  should  be  brought 
as  near  as  \)Oiisih\e  fro?n  the  bottom  of  the  Vines,  that 
the  wall  may  be  well  covered.  When  the  walls 
are  high,  and  the  shoots  from  the  serpentine  branches 
strong,  they  may  sometimes  be  suffered  to  remain. 
If  the  walls  are  low,  and  the  serpentine  branches 
give  weak  shoots,  they  are  to  be  cut  in  the  autum- 
nal pruning,  and  the  strongest  of  the  young  wood  is 
trained  up  in  their  room,  as  directed  in  the  explana- 
tion of  pi.  X. 

The  wood,  in  pruning  and  training  V'lnes^  must 
be  strongs  or  the  Vines  will  produce  small  bunches. 
If  that  be  the  case,  cut  them  down  to  two  or  three 
eyes,  in  order  to  have  strong  wood  for  the  next  year. 
Vines  bear  their  fruit  on  the  wood  that  was  produced 
the  preceding  year.  The  deal  of  old  naked  v.ood 
that  occurs,  and  small  weak  shoots  at  the  extremi- 
ties, always  cut  down  as  near  to  the  ground  as  pos- 
sible. There  then  will  be  no  fruit  for  that  year. 
Or  cut  every  other  shoot,  leaving  the  old  ones  to 
produce  some  small  grapes.  The  next  year  there 
will  be  plenty  of  fine  \\  ood,  if  care  has  been  taken 
to  nail-in  the  strongest  shoots,  and  pick  off  the  side 
shoots  produced  from  the  eyes  ;  pinching  off  with 
finger  and  thumb,  or  with  a  sharp  pen-knife  cutting 


(     36     ) 

tiieitt  oiit  close  to  the  biid  or  eye  ;  but  never  tivist 
tbdrh:  by  twisting  them,  the  bud  will  be  hurt  that 
produces  the  grapes  next  year ;  always  cutting  as 
Hear  to  a  bud  as  possible,  and  laying  in  the  wood 
very  thin  in  summer ;  so  it  will  grow  very  strong. 
Pick  of  all  side  shoots  as  often  as  there  is  nailing  to 
the  wall,  ^vhich  will  be  several  times  in  the  summer 
months  i 

buffer  iiot  the  Vines  to  run  together  in  a  cluster, 
and  to  mat,  which  will  ruin  their  bearing  the  next 
season;  Top  the  shoots  trained  serpentine-like, 
soon  as  the  grapes  are  as  big  as  very  small  green 
peas,  a  joint  or  two  above  the  fruit;  but  neijer  top 
the  leading  shoot j  nor  which  is  intended  to  give  fruit 
next  year; 

111  the  second  year'' s  pruning  y  observe  not  to  prune 
Vines  till  the  beginning  of  February^  unless  in  case 
of  uncommon  forwardness  in  the  season.  It  is  com- 
mon with  some,  to  begin  pruning  sooti  after  the  fall 
of  the  leaf  before  the  iDood  becomes  hard:  but  if  a 
frost  sets  in  before  the  %vood  is  hard,  especially  after 
wet  sunmiers  and  autumns,  it  will  be  much  injured. 
Mr.  F.  has  seen  Vines  almost  killed  after  autumnal 
pruning*     When  the  Vine  leaves  begin  to  fall,  take 


(     37     ) 

k  sofit  broom  and  sweep  them  off,    npivardsy    in  A 
gentle  manner,  which  helps  to  harden  the  wood. 

lii  beginning  to  prune  in  February,  make  choice 
of  the  strongest  and  longest  shoots  ;  leaving  them  as 
iong  as  the  eyes  are  found  good  and  plumps  and  the 
wood  round ;  but  never  leave  them  when  they  be- 
come ^^/;  for  in  that  case  they  seldom  bear  fruit ; 
and  if  they  do,  it  will  be  very  small.  Mr.  F.  never 
lays  in  any  that  has  less  than  fifteen,  and  from  that 
to  thirty  ^00^  eyes,  which  will  produce  two  bunches 
from  every  good  eye.  He  has  had  seventy  bunches 
of  grapes  from  one  shoot. 

The  shoots  that  bore  fruit  in  the  preceding  year 
should  be  cut  out  next  year  ;  except  when  the  wall 
is  to  be  filled,  and  the  shoots  are  very  strong.  A 
plenty  of  fine,  healthy  young  wood  is  always  to  be  :iad, 
if  there  be  care  in  pruning  in  the  winter ;  therefore, 
he  says,  never  leave  a7iy  hut  fine  strong  uwod,  always 
cut ti fig  at  the  second,  third  or  fourth  eye,  rubbing 
off  the  lowest  bud,  and  that  which  comes  out  at  the 
joint  between  the  new  and  last  year's  wood.  Thus 
as  much  fruit  is  got  from  these  short  shoots,  as  would 
be  by  the  common  pruning-. 


(     38     ) 

Always  leave  two  or  three  of  the  strongest  shoots 
for  next  year's  bearing  wood,  and  never  top  them  : 
and,  if  there  is  a  want  of  room  to  train  them,  they 
may  be  led  over  the  tops  of  the  other  trees,  or  run 
them  behind  the  standards ;  \\hich  w ill  have  a  beau- 
tiful appearance  when  the  fruit  is  ripe. 

The  composition  presented  by  Mr.  Forsyth  to  the 
world,  through  the  bounty  of  the  government  and 
Parliament  of  Great-Britain,  is  always  to  be  applied 
as  soon  as  possible  after  pruning.  The  Fine  is  very 
porous,  and  soon  imbibes  ^\  ct  and  moisture,  which 
soon  bring  it  to  decay. 

If  a  Pl}ie,  from  being  cut  late,  should  bleed,  the 
poA\  der  is  to  be  applied,  and  repeated  till  the  bleed- 
ing is  stopped. 

To  try  the  effect  of  the  poivder  in  stopping  the 
bleeding  of  Grape- Vines,  Mr.  F.  cut  two  strong 
Vine  branches  in  jiine,  and  three  more  in  July,  in 
very  hot  ^Acather.  The  sap  rose  so  strong  that  it 
worked  out  at  the  top  in  a  froth  :  on  applying  the 
poivder,  it  Avas  in  a  short  time  entirely  stopped. 


(     39     ) 

PFatering  F'mes. 
When  the  grapes  are  set  ana  begin  to  sivcll^  wa- 
ter them  with  the  barrow-engine  ;  sprinkling  ail  over 
the  lea'oes  and  fruit,  pressing  the  fore  finger  over  the 
top  of  the  pipe,  so  that  the  water  can  be  tiirown  as 
fine  as  small  rain. 

Insects  on  Grapes. 
Soon  as  the  large  fly,  &c.  appears,  have  bottles, 
a  good  number,  about  half  full  with  some  sweet  li- 
quor, where  the  msects  will  be  drowned.  Hang  the 
bottles  all  over  the  Vines,  and  some  at  the  bottom 
of  the  walls.  Hang  them  up  early,  as  the  blue  fly 
comes  much  earlier  than  the  wasp,  and  is  not  less 
destructive. 

Against  birds,  nets  or  bunting  are  to  be  thrown 
over  tlie  grapes. 

It  is  a  bad  practice  to  take  off"  the  leai^es  from 
Vines  soon  after  the  fruit  is  set ;  which  prevents  the 
fruit  from  swelling,  and  it  becomes  hard  and  small, 
apt  to  crack. 

Grapes  are  kept  vvrapped  in  soft  paper,  and  cover- 
ed, layer  and  layer,  with  bran  v/ell  dried  :  but  short 


(     40     ) 

•ut,  sound,  dry  straw  must  be  better,  as  the  dusting 
of  meal  on  the  bran  will  produce  mites,  &c, — The 
grapes  bagged,  and  the  jai'  or  pot  being  filled,  layer 
.and  layer  with  them  and  the  ciit-straix),  they  ar« 
then  closely  secured  in  a  dry  room,  nor  cold  nor  hot, 


FIGS, 

FIGS  have  been  cultivated  in  England  ever  since 
the  }'car  1562.  Mr.  Forsyth  gives  an  account  of 
fifteen  sorts  the  best  worth  cultivating  in  England, 
The}'  arc,  he  says,  raised  from  suckers,  layers,  or 
cuttings  ;  which  will  thrive  in  almost  any  soil,  but 
do  not  like  a  wet  bottom  :  they  generally,  he  adds, 
produce  more  fruit  on  a  strong  loamy  soil  than  on 
a  dry  one.  Layers  or  cuttings  are  preferable  to 
suckers. 

Pruning  and  Culture  of  Figs. 
They  should  never,  says  Mr.  Forsyth,  be  pruned 
in  autumn  or  during  the  imntcr :  his  best  time  is  the 
latter  end  of  April  or  beginning  of  May ;  by  which 
time  A\ill  be  seen  what  shoots  have  been  killed  by 
the  frost  in  winter.  The  end  of  those  branches 
more  particularly^  will  be  hurt  where  the  wood  ha^ 


(     41     ) 

not  ripened  well  in  dntujnn :  they  should  be  cut  int9 
the  sound  wood,  and  as  near  to  an  eye  as  possible. 
When  the  branches  have  been  suffered  to  run  up, 
leaving  tbe  bottom  quite  naked,  there  should  be  cut 
out  every  other  branch  as  near  to  the  ground  as  can 
be ;  which  will  furnish  the  wall  with  fine  young 
wood  ;  observing  to  stop  the  ends  of  the  shoots  in 
the  beginning  of  ^^tme  ;  this  will  cause  them  to 
throw  out  side  shoots  which  will  bear  fruit  the  next 
summer.  By  that  time  there  will  be  plenty  oijins 
•wood:  then  may  be  cut  down  the  rest  of  the  old 
branches  left  the  preceding  year,  observing  to  prune 
them  about  the  same  time  the  pruning  was  the  last 
year  :  remembering  always  to  pinch  off  the.  ends  of 
the  strongest  shoots,  except  the  leading  ones,  at 
the  top  bud. 

When  the  pruning  is  in  the  spring,  neuer  shorten 
the  shoots,  as  the  fruit  iis  produced  near  the  tops^. 
There  will,  he  says,  be  many  fine  short  side  and 
foreright  shoots,  which  should  never  be  cut  off  but 
when  decayed.  These  shoots,  he  thinks,  will  ripaii 
much  better  than  the  long  strong  ones,  and  not  be 
so  liable  to  be  killed  by  frost  in  winter.  By  following 
this  method,  Mr.  F.  says,  the  trees  will  be  covered 
with  fruit  from  top  to  bottom  of  the  walls,  instead 

Of 


(     42     ) 

of  a  few  fruit  only  at  the  top,  as  when  the  common 
metliod  of  pruning  is  practised. 

When  the  Figs  are  the  size  of  small  nutmegs, 
pinch  oft'  the  point  of  the  top  bud  ^^'it^l  the  finger  and 
thumb,  or  cut  it  with  a  sharp  pen-knife  ;  ah\  ays  re- 
membering to  use  the  powder  wherever  is  the  cut  or 
pinch,  to  stop  the  <?(3zi;z^  of  the  milk;  which,  if  suf- 
fered, would  exhaust  and  injure  the  trees. 

Do  not  lay  in  the  branches  too  thick,  or  near  to- 
gether ;  their  distance  should  be  t\\elve  to  eigh- 
teen inches  from  each  other. 

In  the  beginning  of  winter  coiner  the  trees  before 
the  frost  sets  in,  or  the  ends  of  the  shoots  will  be 
hurt  by  the  first  sharp  frosts,  before  the  wood  is  ri- 
pened and  hardened,  which  will  render  it  necessary 
to  cut  them  as  before.  When  Fig-trees  are  very 
much  injured  in  hard  winters,  the  best  way  is  to  cut 
as  near  the  ground  as  possible ;  and  the  second  year 
they  may  be  got  into  a  fine  bearing  state,  if  managed 
as  above  directed. 


i  (     43     ) 

Coniering  Fig-Trees. 
Mr.  Forsyth  covered  with  bentings,*  or  short 
grass  from  the  pleasure  grounds ;  which  he  finds  an- 
swers the  purpose  very  well.  Figs,  he  adds,  may 
also  be  sheltered  in  winter,  by  wrapping  hay  or 
straw  bands  round  the  branches  of  the  trees;  then 
open  the  ground,  lay  in  the  branches  oiiho.  trees,  and 
coiier  them  over  with  mould  about  nine  inches  deep, 
leamng  the  ends  of  the  shoots  about  three  inches  out 
of  the  ground,  and  covering  the  ground  over  with 
some  rotten  leaves  or  old  tan,  &c.  to  keep  out  the 
frost.     The  roots  also  may  be  so  covered. 

Do  not  uncover  the  Figs  too  soon  in  the  spring  ; 
and  it  should  be  partially,  for  fear  of  frosts  and  cut- 
ting winds  in  April  and  May  ;  which  would  kill  the 
young  fruit,  as  it  makes  its  appearance  in  the 
spring. 

The  branches  laid  into  the  ground  should  be  taken 
up  in  April,  taking  off  the  hay  and  straw  bands, 

*  Bentings,  or  bent-grass  ?    Under  Grapes,  p.  129 
he  says,  cover  the  trees  with  "  nets  or  hunting  (a  kind 
of  stuff  which  ship's  colours  are  made  of)."  But  here, 
(his  p.  136),  bentings  seem  to  be  the  bent-grass;  for 
he  says,  "  bentings  or  short  grafs." 


(     44     )  ^ 

and  then  nail  them  to  the  wall.  Stick  in  among 
the  branches  some  fern  leaves,  or  other  light  co'Der- 
ingy  to  protect  them  from  drying  winds  and  frosts, 
till  the  fruit  is  of  he  size  of  a  large  walnut,  or  rather 
till  the  leaves  are  large  enough  to  protect  the  fruit. 

The  Italians,  to  f onward  the  ripening  of  Figs,  drop 
a  little  sweet  oil  from  a  quill  into  the  dye  of  tlie  fruit. 
But  take  care  not  to  hurt  tlie  skin  and  make  the  Fig 
burst.  This  makes  the  difference  of  full  /luo  "weeks 
in  the  ripening. 

Soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to  fall,  brush  them  off 
with  a  broom,  but  not  till  they  come  off  easily  ^  lest 
the  trees  be  made  to  bleed  at  the  footstalks.  In  the 
same  moment  clean  the  stalks  of  all  the  stalks  of 
small  late  fruit  \ — which,  if  suffered  to  remain  in 
the  winter,  will  rot  and  injure  the  tree,  so  as  to 
prevent  it  from  bearing  the  next  summer. 

If  milk  is  seen  oozing  from  the  footstalks,  apply- 
some  of  the  composition  ;  which  will  stop  it  and  heal 
tlie  injured  part :  and  by  doing  this,  ripening  and 
hardening  the  ivood  before  winter  frosts  set  in  will 
be  assisted.  See  before,  p.  ^^,  his  powder  applied 
to  Vines. 


(     45     ) 

Plant  Fig-trees  20  to  24  feet  apart ;  and  train 
horizontally  J  which  renders  them  much  more  fruit- 
ful than  if  trained  upright ^  which  makes  them  run 
up  in  long,  naked  wood. 

Leave  spurs  or  short  shoots  allo'uer  the  branches ; 
and  when  the  buds  begin  to  swell,  all  the  short  shoots 
should  be  pinched  as  above. 

The  branches  of  standard  Fig-trees  are  liable  to 
be  killed  in  winters  ;  they  therefore  should  be  laid 
in  the  ground,  wrapping  them  up  in  hay  or  straw 
bands,  as  directed  for  wall-trees.  It  sometimes  will 
be  impracticable  to  lay  down  the  middle  branches  : 
then  let  them  be  well  covered  with  hay  or  straw 
bands,  and  the  outside  laid  down  regularly  round  the 
tree,  and  avoiding  to  hurt  them  with  the  spade  : 
then  mulch  them  with  rotten  leaves,  &c. 

After  hard  winters  it  has  been  found  necessary  to 
cut  Fig-trees  down  'oery  near  to  the  ground,  and  ap- 
ply the  composition :  in  two  years  the  new^  wood  has 
covered  over  the  old  stump,  and  the  branches  filled 
up  the  space,  bearing  a  plenty  of  fine  fruit. 

In  a  plentiful  year,  what  is  not  used  at  table,  may 
be  dried  for  winter  use. 


(     46     ) 

QUINCES. 

THE  best  sort  for  the  kitchen  garden  is  the  Por- 
tugal^ the  best  for  baking  or  stewing.  It  is  of  a  fine 
purple  colour  A\hen  dressed,  and  much  better  for 
marmalade  than  any  other  sort.  These  also  mix 
well  with  apples  in  pies  and  puddings ;  adding  a 
quick  pleasant  fia\'or. 

They  are  easily  raised  by  layers  or  cuttings  taken 
from  the  tree  in  March.  Plant  in  ^  shady  place,  in 
rows  a  foot  apart,  and  three  inches,  plant  to  plant  in 
the  rows.  Mulch  them  with  rotten  leaves  or  rotten 
dung,  for  keeping  the  ground  moist  about  them. 
Water  them  frequently  in  hot  weather.  About  Mi- 
chaelmass  the  well-rooted  may  be  planted  out ;  and 
the  rest  let  remain  over  to  another  year. — They  also 
may  be  propagated  b}'  budd'iug  or  grafting  ;  and 
those  trees  will  bear,  Mr.  F.  says,  sooner,  and  be 
more  fruitful  than  those  raised  by  any  other  method. 

Prune  Quince-trees  much  like  Apple-trees,  cut- 
ting out  all  the  diseased,  old,  and  dead  wood,  and 
the  cross  branches  in  the  middle  of  the  tree.  In  ge- 
neral, old  trees  ai'e  much  hurt  by  injudicious  prun- 
ing :  in  that  case,   head  them  dowiu  cut  out  all  the 


(     47     ) 

canhery  pai-t,  and  aU  the  diseased  and  dead  wood 
where  the  tree  is  Iiollow,  or  where  large  branches 
have  been  cut  or  broken  off ;  applying  always  the 
composition  as  for  Apple-trees. 

Quince-trees  are  apt  to  have  rough  bark,  and  be 
bark-bound.  Shave  off  the  rough  bark  with  a  draw- 
knife  ;  and  scarify  them  when  bark-bound :  then 
brush  them  over  with  the  composition^  as  hereafter. 

Quinces  ought  to  be  planted  some  distance  from 
apples  and  Pears,  as  bees  and  the  wind  might  mix 
the  farina,  and  occasion  the  apples  and  pears  to  de- 
generate. 


GOOSEBERRIES. 

THE  sorts  common  in  England,    Mr.  Forsyth 
says,  are — 

Green  Gascoin,  Hairy  &  Smooth  Red, 

Smooth  Green,  Large  Smooth  Yellow, 

Early  Black,  Large  Rough  Yellow, 

Small  Early  Red.  Common  Large  White, 

Large  .SmoothDutchYello^\-,Chiimpaigiie. 


(     48     ) 

They  arc  raised  from  cuttings^  or  from  seed  i 
some  raise  them  from  suckers  :  but  these  last  are 
raised  in  a  bad  way  ;  as  the  bushes  are  more  liable 
to  throw  out  suckers  from  them  than  in  either  of 
the  other  ways. 

Plant  cutt'mgs,  he  says,  about  Michaelmass ;  al- 
ways cutting  them  from  the  strongest  and  cleanest 
shoots.  The  length  of  cuttings  to  be  six  to  eight 
inches,  planting  them  on  an  east  or  north  border, 
one  foot  from  row  to  row,  leaving  them  about  three 
inches  above  ground  :  at  this  distance  the  hoc  may 
be  admitted,  for  cleaning  them  from  weeds  and  stir- 
ring the  soil.  Water  frequently  in  dry  weather  dur- 
ing the  spring. 

Market  gardeners  near  London  plant  them  in 
rows,  8  or  10  feet  from  row  to  row,  and  six  feet, 
plant  to  plant  in  the  rows.  In  which  case,  Mr.  F. 
advises  pruning  them  in  the  beginning  of  Octo- 
ber ;  and  the  ground  between  planted  with  col  worts 
or  beans,  for  a  spring  crop. 

After  this  time  (or  before)  lay  a  coat  of  rotten 
dung  on :  then  dig  and  plant  early  potatoes ;  but 
not  so  near  the  Gooseberries  as  to  hurt  them. 


(     49     ) 

The  roots  of  Gooseberries  arc  to  be  kept  clear 
to  admit  sun  and  air.  In  small  gardens,  plant 
them 'in  quarters  by  themselves  ;  six  feet  between 
the  rows,  and  four  feet,  plant  to  plant  j  or  plant 
them  round  the  edges  of  the  quarters,  three  feet 
from  the  path;  and  then  the  ground  will  be  clear 
for  cropping. 

Gooseberries  love  a  rich  soil  ;  and  should  there- 
fore be  dunged  every  year,  or  at  least  a  good  coat 
once  in  two  years. 

Never  plant  them,  he  says,  under  the  shade  of 
ether  trees  ;  which  would  injure  the  flavour  of  the 
fruit. 

Pruning  Gooseberries. 
It  is  a  bad  practice  to  let  Gooseberr).'-bushes 
branch  out  with  great  naked  stems.  When  they 
are  found  in  this  state,  cut  them  down  near  to  the 
ground  in  the  winter  pruning.  They  then  will 
throw  out  fine  strong  healthy  shoots,  that  will  give 
fruit  the  second  year.  In  general,  they  bare  their 
fruit  on  the  second  year's  wood. 


(  ^0  ) 

In  summer  keep  the  middle  of  the  bush  clear,  to 
admit  a  free  air;  leaving  the  finest  and  strongest 
shoots  from  six  to  ten  inches  distant  from  each 
other  ;  which  will  help  to  ripen  and  harden  the 
wood.  It  is,  says  Mr.  F.  a  practice  with  some  to 
jhorten  the  shoots  in  the  autumn  or  winter  prun- 
ing ;  this,  he  adds,  should  always  be  near  to  a 
wood-bud ;  which  is  known  by  its  being  singlcy 
whereas  fruit-lmds  arc  in  clusters.  The  shoots  arc 
shortened  to  eight  or  ten  inches,  as  they  are  strong* 
Some  leave  them  at  full  length  three  or  four  years, 
thinning  out  those  that  are  superfluous.  Always 
leave  a  number  to  be  trained  up  between  the  full 
length  shoots,  to  succeed  them  when  they  arc  tired 
of  bearing  :  then  cut  the  old  ones  down  to  the 
young  that  arc  to  succeed  them.  Thus  the  bushes 
are  always  in  a  constant  state  of  bearing. 

The  branches  cut  in  the  first  year,  in  the  second 
will  throw  out  short  dugs,  or  spurs  which  produce 
the  fruit  ;  and  these  should  by  no  means  be  cut 
off,  unless  the  branches  are  in  a  sickly  state,  and 
require  to  be  cut  close  down  when  the  bushes  are 
overloaded  with  fruit.  It  will  then  be  necessary 
to  cut  out  a  good  deal  of  the  old  wood,  to  assist 
nature  to  recover  herself  after  being  forced  in 
producing  so  great  a  quantity  of  fruit. 


(     51     ) 

The  Gooseberry  supplies  the  table  amply  till 
the  wall-fruit  conies  in.  Great  additions  to  them 
are  of  late  made  by  raising  them  from  seed^ 

By  mixing  up  a  rich  soil  to  plant  those  in  that 
have  been  raised //-o;;?  seed^  and  by  waterings  shad' 
m^  and  M;««/;z§  the  fruit,  they  have  grown  much 
larger  than  any  ever  before  seen  in  England. 

The  catalogues  of  Gooseberries  are  brought  to 
contain  between  four  and  five  hundred  sorts  or 
varieties.  Mr.  Forsyth  asked  Messrs.  M'Niven, 
nurserymen  at  Manchester,  how  many  good  and 
distinct  sorts  (some  hardly  being  distinguishable) 
they  could  send  him  out  of  their  numerous  cata- 
logue :  the  answer  was,  ''•  They  could  send  about 
eighteen  or  twenty  sorts,  which  they  could  an- 
swer for  being  good  and  distinct  " — r\jr.  Forsyth 
accordingly  received,  on  his  order,  all  the  sorts 
that  they  could  warrant  good,  which  turned  out 
to  his  satisfaction. 

Great  attention  ought  to  be  paid  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  early  and  late  sorts  before  all  others, 
and  he  wishes  attention  be  paid  to  the  times  of 
ripening. 


(     52     .) 

He  disapproves  of  clipping  the  tops  of  Goose- 
berry-bushes with  garden-shears,  which  exceed- 
ingly injures  the  bushes  and  the  fruit. 

In  the  spring  and  summer,  grub  up  all  thej-«r;^- 
ers  from  the  roots  ot  the  bushes  ;  leaving  their 
stems  clear  and  unincumbered. 

To  have  the  fruit  very  late,  plant  on  north  walls 
and  palings  between  the  other  trees  ;  and  they 
may  be  removed  when  the  trees  begin  to  meet. 
\i  laid  in  thirty  they  will  bear  very  fine  and  hand- 
some fruit.  PlaRt  the  finest  /^/^  sorts.  By  this 
method  the  table  will  be  supplied  much  longer 
than  by  the  common  practice  of  planting  in  quar- 
ters. 

Immediately  after  pruning,  Mr.  F.  always  ap- 
plies the  composition  to  the  ends  of  the  shoots  and 
cuttings;  and  he  finds  it  of  great  use  in  prevent- 
ing the  exhalation  of  the  sap,  and  preserving  the 
cuttings  till  they  take  root. 

A  small  green  caterpillar  frequently  devours 
the  leaves  and  fruit  of  Gooseberry-bushes.  Watch 
their  early  coming,   and  destroy  them  before  they 


(     53     ) 

get  ahead,  or  they  will  destroy  all  the  leaves,  and 
the  fruit  will  be  worthless.  Their  first  appear- 
ances are  under  and  at  the  edges  of  the  leaves. 

To  kill  the  green  caterpillar,  Izy  sifted  quick-lime 
under  the  bushes  ;  but  at  first  let  none  touch  the 
branches  or  leaves  j  then  shake  t2.c\\h\x^h. suddenly 
and  smartly.  The  caterpillars  then  fall  into  the 
lime.  If  the  bush  be  not  very  suddenly  shook, 
with  a  spring,  the  insects  being  a  little  disturbed 
will  cling  close  to  the  leaves,  hardly  to  be  shaken 
off.  After  this  is  done,  sift  some  of  the  lime  o<:;<fr 
and  on  the  bushes,  which  will  drive  down  those 
that  may  be  lodged  on  the  branches.  Next  day 
sweep  up  the  caterpillars,  and  wash  the  bushes 
with  clear  lime-water,  mixed  with  nrine.  This 
will  destroy  Aphides  as  well  as  caterpillars. 


CURRANTS. 

THE  sorts  most  commonly  cultivated  in  Eng- 
land are,  the  Rcd?c[\6.  White  Dutch  Currants^  and 
the  Common  Black  and  American  Black  Currants. 
Also  the  following  sorts  are  cultivated  by  the  nur- 
serymen about  London  and  other  parts  of  P-lng- 
land ; 


(      54     ) 

Common  red,  Longbunched  red, 

Champaignclargepale&red,  Striped-lcavM  red, 

Fine  new  white  Du^eh,  \\'hiie  Crystal, 
Large  pi^le  and  red  Dutch. 

The  Currant  is  the  most  useful  of  all  the  small 
fruit,  either  fur  the  table  and  kitchen,  or  for  pre- 
serving, making  vvine,  Sec.  and  continues  longer 
in  succession  than  any  other. 

He  further  says,  with  proper  attention,  Currants 
will  continue  in  use  fiom  Juue  to  November. 
Black  Currants  are  very  much  esteemed  by  some  ; 
ye  they  are  seldom  sent  to  the  table,  but  are  very 
useful  for  making  jelly,  for  sore  throats,  colds,  &c. 
In  Ireland,  he  says.  Black  Currants  are  steeped  in 
whiskey^  of  which  they  make  punch,  and  recom- 
mend it  as  a  medicine  for  coughs  and  colds.  He 
once  had  two  gallons  of  it  sent  by  a  friend  for  that 
purpose :  some  of  it  was  taken  in  a  glass  of  warm 
water  by  aperson  much  afflicted  with  a  severe 
cough^  and  thought  to  be  in  a  decline^  which  effect- 
ed a  perfect  cure  in  three  or  four  nights.  The 
Currants  for  this  purpose  should  be  bruised  and 
put  in  a  jar,  and  the  whisky  poured  over  them.  It 
stands  a  fortnight,  cover  it  close  down ;  then  it  is 


(     55     ) 

strained  through  a  fine  cloth  or  sieve,  and  put  it 
into  bottles  or  casks  for  use.  Currants,  he  adds, 
may  be  used  in  this  manner  with  brandy,  gin,  or 
other  spirits:  and  they  may  be  preserved  as  cher- 
ries, and  sent  up  to  table. 

Propagation  of  Currants. 
They  may  be  raised  from  seed,  layers^  &c. 
When  the  trees  are  cut  low,  lay  down  some  of  the 
branches  in  winter  or  spring,  when  the  ground  is 
dug  in  the  quarters  or  rows^  which  ought  to  be 
annually.  In  the  next  autumn,  these  layers  will 
have  made  fine  roots  ;  then  they  may  be  planted 
out  wherever  wished  to  stand,  when  in  thefoliovv-' 
ing  summer  they  will  give  fine  fruit. 

Currants  may  also  be  propagated  by  cuttings  y 
choosing  out  the  strongest  and  straightest  shoots. 

Under  the  bushes,  covered  for  late  fruit,  there 
will  always  be  found  a  plenty  of  self-sown  plants  ; 
which  it  is  adviseable  to  plant  out  by  themselves. 
When  wine  is  made  of  Currants,  save  and  dry  the 
seed — then  in  autumn  or  early  in  the  spring  soiv 
the  seeds  on  fine  light  earth  ;  when  there  probably 
will  be  some   fine  varieties.     Do    not  propagate 


(     56     ) 

them  from  suckers  ;  they  never  grow  handsome, 
and  throw  out  many  suckers. 

Instead  of  some  bad  Currants  retained  in  the 
gardens  in  England,  Mr.  Forsyth  recommends  the 
rooting  them  out,  and  plant  in  their  room  the 
Large  Red  and  IVhite  Diitch^  the  Long  Bunched 
Red^  and  Chnmpai^ne  Large  Pale  Red.  They  may 
be  planted  out  in  the  same  manner  as  Gooseber- 
ries, in  quarters^  or  single  rows  round  the  edges  of 
quarters. 

A  few,  particularly,  plant  against  a  south  or  a 
Wffj-/ wall  or  paling,  which  will  give  fruit  much 
earlier  than  in  quarters.^  &c. — Also  to  plant  some 
between  other  fruit-trees  on  northmalls  or  palings, 
for  later  crops  :  these  may  be  covered  WiXix  double 
nets,  to  preserve  them  from  birds;  tucking  in  a  few 
fern  branches  between  the  two  nets,  for  preventing 
the  heat  of  the  sun  and  drying  luincls  from  shrivel- 
ling the  fruit.  In  quarters,  they  should  be  cover- 
ed with  mats  for  the  same  purpose  ;  at  the  same 
time  permitting  the  leaves  to  remain  on  the  bushes 
to  shade  the  fruit  and  make  it  keep  the  longer. 


(     57     ) 

Pruning  Cur  rant- Bushes, 
It  is  nearly  similar  to  that  of  Goosebenies.     It 
may  be  begun  in  Noiiemher^  and  continue  till  March. 

Never  leave  Currants  too  thick  of  ivood ;  and 
much  depends  on  their  management  in  summer, 
that  they  may  have  strong  and  fine  wood  for  the 
next  season.  If  they  have  been  neglected  for  years, 
and  suffered  to  run  up  to  long  naked  wood,  they  are 
to  be  cut  down  near  the  ground  ;  they  then  will  set 
forth  fine  strong  shoots.  In  such  case,  Mr.  Forsyth 
recommends  heading  down  every  other  tree,  and 
cutting  the  others  partially,  by  taking  out  every 
other  branch  as  near  as  can  be  to  the  ground,  unless 
they  are  trained  up  'with  single  stems,  in  which  case, 
he  says,  cut  them  as  near  as  possible  to  where  the 
branches  begin  to  break  out  and  form  the  head. 

In  the  winter  pruning  preserve  the  strongest  and 
finest  shoots,  leaving  them  nine  to  eighteen  inches 
long,  according  to  their  strength,  and  from  eight  to 
ten  inches  apart,  and  regular  from  top  to  bottom  of 
the  trees  ;  cutting  out  the  dead  and  weak  shoots. — 
Particular  attention  is  to  be  paid  in  summer  to  keep 
open  the  middle  of  the  bush,  to  admit  sun  and  air  ; 
preserving  the  finest  and  strongest  shoots,  nearest 

I 


(     58     ) 

the  stem.  Suffer  not,  for  the  sake  of  a  fine  round 
head,  that  it  run  too  high,  however  comely,  because 
the  winds  are  apt  to  break  them  if  not  well  support- 
ed by  stakes.  The  shoots  should  run  not  to  more 
than  six  inches  long.  He  prefers  dwarfs^  three  to 
four  feet  high.  Stock  up  all  suckers  at  the  roots  of 
the  trees,  and  keep  them  ^ery  clean. — Suckers  would 
prevent  the  sun  and  air  from  the  roots,  and  weaken 
the  trees. 


BARBERRIES. 

MR.  FORSYTH  recommends  Barberries  in  all 
shrubberies.  They  attract  and  harbour  singing 
birds.  The  sorts  are,  the  Red  Barberry  luithoiit 
stems  :  the  White  Barberry :  the  Black  Sweet,  the 
tenderest  of  them — plant  in  a  warm  situation  :  the 
Common  Red  %mth  stones,  planted  for  its  beautiful 
red  berries. 

They  are  propagated  from  their  suckers  and  lay- 
ers, and  require  the  like  pruning  with  other  flower- 
ing  shrubs.     They  look  well  planted  in  clumps. 


(     59     ) 

When  they  are  to  he  increased,  encourage  the 
finest  and  cleanest  shoots  in  summer,  by  trimming  all 
the  side  branches  off  thin  ;  and  when  in  M'inter  the 
shrubberies  are  dressed,  lay  down  the  strong  shoots, 
which  will  take  root,  and  be  fit  to  transplant  in  au- 
tumn following.  When  designed  for  use,  train  them 
up  as  standards  and  half  standards,  and  they  will 
grow  from  six  to  twelve  feet  high.  In  summer 
trim  off  all  the  straggling  and  superfluous  shoots, 
so  as  to  make  handsome  heads. 

Barberries  may  also  be  raised  from  seeds  ;  but 
suckers  and  layers  are  best  for  preserving  the  sorts 
distinct. 


They  are  used  as  pickles,  in  garnishing  dishes, 
and  as  a  preserve.  They  are  excellent ;  to  many 
purposes ;  and  in  making  a  cooling  drifik  in  fevers, 
they  are  scarcely  equalled  ;  and  in  punch  are  thought 
by  some  to  rival  lemons. 


RASPBERRIES. 

THE  sorts  propagated  in  England,  according  to 
Mr.  Forsyth,  are — 


(     60     ) 

Early  white,  T.arge  red  Antwerp. 

Double-bearingwhite,  Large  white  Antwerp, 
Large  common  white,  Smooth  cane  double-bearing, 
Large  red,  Woodward's  new  Raspberry. 

Propagating^  Planting  and  Priming  Raspberries. 
They  are,  says  Mr.  Forsyth,  raised  from  suckers 
and  layers.  They  should  be  planted  in  a  piece  of 
ground  by  tliemselves,  and  (except  the  early  white) 
at  the  distance  of  six  feet  from  row  to  row,  and  four 
feet  in  the  rows. 

First  trench  and  dung  the  ground  before  the  Rasp- 
ben-ies  are  planted  :  choose  the  strongest  and  finest 
plants  that  come  from  the  sides  of  the  stools ^  where 
they  ^2x^X^^0X1  standing  for  some  years  ;  or  encou- 
rage the  strongest  plants  that  come  out  betwixt  the 
rows  after  digging,  which  should  be  done  annually. 
In  digging,  the  roots  will  frequently  happen  to  be 
cut  M  ith  the  spade,  a\  hich  will  occasion  many  small 
plants  to  come  up ;  of  which  select  the  strongest  and 
finest,  and  then  hoe  up  all  the  rest.  But  he  prefer- 
red laying  down  some  of  the  strongest  outside  shoots 
in  March  ;  as  by  the  next  autumn  they  will  make 
fine  roots,  and  may  be  planted  out  where  intended 
to  remain.  These  will  be  less  liable  to  throw  out 
suckers  than  diose  produced  from  suckers. 


(     61     ) 

Plant  out  fresh  pieces  of  Raspberries  in  moist 
iveatber,  as  tlie  roots  are  very  delicate,  and  subject 
to  be  hurt  if  exposed  to  a  diy  air.  If,  however, 
they  are  planted  in  dry  iveatber,  be  sure  to  moisten 
tlie  roots  with  water,  and  cover  them  with  wet  litter 
or  leaves,  during  the  time  of  planting. 

In  planting,  ope?i  a  trench  with  the  spade  along  the 
line  where  the  suckers  or  layers  are  to  be  planted. 
Cut  off  the  small  fibrous  roots  with  a  knife,  leaving 
only  the  stronger  roots.  Put  them  into  the  trench, 
and  cover  them  with  earth  :  then  water  them  well, 
and  throw  the  rest  of  the  earth  over  them,  to  remain 
till  the  planting  is  finished  ;  then  where  you  first  be- 
gan to  plant,  begin  and  tread  the  ground  with  your 
foot  as  hard  as  you  can  along  each  of  the  trenches, 
and  in  the  same  direction  as  you  planted  :  then  with 
a  spade  level  all  the  ground  smooth,  aijd  run  it  over 
with  a  rake,  taking  off  any  stones  and  rubbish  that 
may  be  left  on  the  surface. 

In  dry  weather,  water  the  plants  t^vo  or  three 
times  a  week  till  they  take  root.  The  Antwerp 
and  other  strong  growers  should  be  staked  with 
stout  stakes :  then  run  two  small  rails  at  top,  to  tic 
the  branches  to. 


(     62     ) 

The  early  white  and  smaller  sorts  may  be  plaited 
together  at  top,  tying  them  round  with  small  yellow 
willow,  for  keeping  them  together. 

The  Antwerps  will  thrive  well  against  a  7iorth  wall 
or  paling,  and  give  late  crops. 

Where  the  small  red  and  white  Raspberries  arc 
found,  destroy  them, — and  in  their  room  plant  the 
following  sorts :  large  red.,  smovth-cane  douhle-hear- 
i?ig,  large  red ixnd  white  Jntwerps,  the  large  common 
white,  double-bearing  ivhite,  and  Woodward's  new 
Raspberry. 

Some  prefer  to  prune  Raspberries  in  autumn,  a 
practice  not  appro\ed  by  Mr.  Forsyth;  because 
bearing  the  fruit  on  the  wood  of  the  preceding  year,, 
they  are  liable  to  be  killed  by  frost  in  severe  win- 
ters ;  but  by  deferring  the  pruning  till  February, 
there  will  be  great  choice  of  fine  wood  for  bearing  the 
following  summer  ;  always  rooting  out  or  cutting 
down  all  the  wood  that  bore  fruit  the  preceding  year, 
which  generally  dies  ;  selecting  only  {rom  five  to  se- 
i}en  of  the  most  vigorous  and  strong  shoots  from  the 
last  year's  wood,  to  bear  fruit  the  ensuing  yeai*. 
These  shoots  may  ht  primed  to  the  length  of  three 


(     63     ) 

vr  four  feet ^  according  to  their  strength,  if  they  arc 
of  the  sraooth-cane  double-bearing  sort  (which  ge- 
nerally bears  a  second  crop  in  autumn,  and  will  in 
fine  seasons  continue  hearing  from  June  to  Noiiem- 
be?-) ;  but,  if  the  large  Antwerp,  the  shoots  should 
be  left  five  or  six  feet  long. 

Raspberries  will  continue  in  bearing  five  or  six 
years;:  by  which  time  there  should  be  2,  fresh  planta- 
tion to  succeed  them.  The  young  plants  will  bear 
some  fruit  the  first  year,  and  come  into  full  bearing 
the  second  year  after  planting.  If  suffered  to  remain 
more  thanf'ueor  six  years  on  the  same  ground,  they 
will  degenerate  and  bear  small  fruit.  Leave  not 
above  eight  or  ten  of  the  strongest  shoots,  rubbing 
off"  or  pulling  up  all  the  superfluous  ones  ;  and  keep 
the  ground  well  hoed  and  clear  of  weeds  between 
the  rows. 


MULBERRIES. 

MANY  old  Mulberry-trees  are  standing  at  this 
day  about  ancient  moruisteries  and  abbeys  ;  from 
whence  it  is  probable  they  had  been  introduced  be- 
fore the  dissolution  of  those  houses.   It  is  said,  they 


64     ) 

were  first  introduced  into  England  in  1596.  But 
if  30,  the  opinion  of  the  Duke  of  Northumberland 
must  be  erroneous,''when  he  said  the  four  Mulberry- 
trees  at  Sion-house  were  above  300  years  old  :  and 
Gerard  says,  in  his  history  of  plants,  that  in  1597 
Mulberry-trees  then  grew  in  sundry  gardens  in  Eng- 
land. 

There  is  none  worth  cultivating  for  fruit  in  Eng- 
land, but  the  common  Black  Mulberry-tree,  the 
fruit  whereof  is  very  wholesome  ;  and  the  Red  or 
Virginian  Mulberry. 

Mulberries  are  raised  in  England  from  seed,  or 
from  cuttings  and  layers.  The  best  bearing  branches 
of  old  trees  are  to  be  chosen  for  cuttings  and  la}ers. 
Some  of  their  branches  bearing  only  katkins,  and 
trees  from  them  will  yield  fruit.  From  layers,  they 
will  generally  take  root  sufficiently  the  first  year  to 
bear  separating  from  the  parent  tree  ;  and  should 
then  be  planted  in  a  nursery,  and  trained  up  with 
single  stems.  In  four  years  they  are  fit  to  plant  out 
to  remain.  Give  them  distance,  that  the  sun  and 
air  may  have  full  influence  on  them ;  the  fruit,  other- 
wise, being  apt  to  turn  mouldy.  Also  shelter  them, 
in  England,  from  east,  north  and  west  winds. 


(     65     ) 

But,  Mr.  Forsyth  says,  the  best  way  to  raise  them 
is  ivoTXi  former  year"* s  shoots ^  having  one  joint  of  the 
two  years*  wood.  Plant  them  out  in  autumn^  if  fine 
weather,  or  in  Marchy  in  rows  nine  inches  apart, 
and  at  two  inches  distance  in  the  rows,  leaving  only 
tnuo  or  three  buds  above  ground :  mulch  the  ground 
with  leaves  or  dung  well  rotted,  to  keep  it  moist, 
and  the  plants  will  require  little  watering.  If  well 
thriven,  the  next  year  they  may  be  transplanted  in- 
to a  nursery,  and  treated  as  directed  for  layers. 
Whilst  they  remain  in  the  nursery  they  should  be 
transplanted  every  three  or  four  years.  Plant  the 
trees  where  they  will  drop  the  finest  of  their  fruit  on 
grass ;  when  dropping  on  dug  ground,  the  fruit 
would  be  lost. 

Their  best  soil  is  a  rich,  light,  and  deep  earth. 
The  fruit  is  produced  on  the  young  wood ;  there- 
fore only  cut  out  such  branches  as  cross  others,  and 
that  arc  decayed  or  broken  by  accident ;  at  the  same 
time  apply  the  composition.  If,  however,  the  heads 
become  too  full  of  wood,  they  must  be  thinned,  for 
giving  larger  and  better  flavored  fruit  ^vhere  the 
heads  are  thin  of  wood. 


(     66     ) 

Mr.  Forsyth  found  many  Mulberry-trees  in  a  very 
decayed  state,  and  the  trunks  quite  hollow;  on  which 
he  tried  the  composition^  cutting  out  all  the  dead 
wood  and  cankery  parts  of  some,  and  beading  down 
others  that  were  stunted  and  sickly.  After  these 
operations,  they  put  forth  vigorous  branches,  and 
bore  excellent  crops  of  fruit,  more  than  double  the 
size  of  that  a\  hich  they  produced  in  their  former 
state. 

Those,  he  says,  who  have  old  decayed  Mulberry- 
trees,  should  treat  them  in  the  same  manner ;  but 
such  as  are  mery  much  decayed  should  be  headed 
doivn  :  this  will  throw  them  into  a  healthy,  bearing 
state,  and  in  two  or  three  years  they  will  produce 
j>lent.y  of  fine  fruit. 

As  old  Mulberry-trees,  Mr.  F.  says-,  produce  not 
only  a  greater  quantity  of  fruit,  but  also  much  larger 
and  of  a  finer  flavor  than  young  ones,  it  is  m  ell 
worth  while  to  take  some  pains  to  repair  the  injuries 
A^hich  they  may  have  sustained  by  accidents  or  age. 

>  'This  pleasant  and  'valuable  fruity  he  says,  is  but 
little  cultivated  in  England, 


(     67     ) 

THE  ALMOND. 

THE  following  are  the  sorts  propagated  in  Eng- 
land, for  ornament  and  use  : — The  tender-shell'd 
almond  ;  the  sweet  almond  ;  the  common  or  bitter 
almond  ;  the  sweet  Jordan  almond  ;  the  hard  shell'd 
almond ;  the  dwarf,  and  the  double-flowering  al- 
monds. 

They  are  propagated  by  budding  them  on  plum^ 
almond,  or  peach-stocks.  The  next  spring,  train 
them  for  standards^  or  let  them  grow  for  half  stand- 
ards :  but  the  common  way  is  to  bud  them  as  high 
as  it  is  wished  the  stem  should  be  ;  and  the  second 
year  after  they  may  be  planted  out  for  good.  Trans- 
plant into  a  dry  soil  in  October^  when  the  leaves  be- 
gin to  decay  :  if  into  ■«;€■/ ground,  February  is  tlie 
season.  Budded  on  plum  stocks,  they  thrive  best 
in  a  wet  soil ;  and  on  almond  and  peach  stocks  in  a 
dry.  They  require  nearly  the  same  management  in 
pruning  as  the  standard  apricot. 

Plant  them,  Mr.  Forsyth  says,  always  in  a  sbcl- 
tcred  place,  facing  the  south.  If  planted  as  diijarfs^ 
they  may  be  covered  viith  poles  stuck  into  the 
gromid,  tliatching  over  the  tops  of  the  trees  with 


(     68     ) 

fern  or  other  light  cohering ^  to  prevent  the  blossoms 
being  killed  by  the  frost  in  February  and  March, 

After  the  fruit  is  set  and  the  leaves  so  far  out  as 
to  cover  it,  if  fine  weather,  the  covering  may  be  re- 
moved in  the  latter  end  of  April  or  early  in  May. 

They  are  sometimes  planted  on  walls,  and  some- 
times on  espaliers. 

Preserve  them  in  dry  sand  or  bran ;  but  they 
should  be  first  thoroughly  dried  on  shelves  or  boards 
in  an  airy  place  before  they  are  put  into  sand  or 
bran  ;  otherwise  they  will  become  mouldy. 


CHESNUTS. 

THE  sorts  mostiy  cultivated  in  England,  Mr. 
Forsyth  says,  are  the  Spanish  Chesnuts,  which  run 
into  great  varieties  when  raised  from  seed  ;  and  the 
American  sort,  called  Chinquapin,  for  variety. 

The  Spanish  Chesnuts  are  very  fine  trees,  and 
well  worth  cultivating,  both  for  use  and  ornament. 
The  timber  is  reckoned  equal  to  oak,  and  for  casks 


(     69     ) 

superior  to  it ;  for  when  seasoned  it  is  not  so  liable 
to  shrink  or  swell  as  oak.  They  ha  e  a  noble  ap- 
pearance, and  so  are  adapted  to  parks. 

Propagate  them  from  seed  gathered  when  tho- 
roughly ripe,  about  the  end  of  October. — Let  them 
spontaneously  open  and  drop  from  the  ti^ees,   to  be 
picked  up  in  the  morning.     All  that  fail  in  the  husk 
should  be  thrown  in  a  heap  in  a  shed,  to  remain 
three  or  four  weeks  to  ripen.     Then  pick  out  the 
best,  dry  them  on  mats  or  cloths  in  a  sunny  situa- 
tion.    They  are  then  laid  up  on  shelves  or  a  dry 
floor,  turning  them  frequently.     If  some  are  dried 
in  an  oven  after  bread  is  drawn,  and  then  packed  i?i 
boxes  or  jars  with  quite  dry  sand,  they  will,  he  says, 
keep  plump  and  good.     If  put  in  the  oven  when  too 
hot,  they  will  shrivel.     Sow  in  beds  of  light  earth 
in  Noiiember  ;  the  drills  being  nine  inches  apart  and 
three  deep  :  the  nuts  to  be  an  inch  apart  in  the  rows, 
with  the  points  upwards :  cover  with  mould,  and  pat 
it  down  with  the  head  of  the  rake.     The  beds  four 
or  five  feet  wide,  raised  a  little  in  the  middle  to  let 
off  rain.     If  it  appears  the  seeds  are  attacked  in  the 
ground  by  mice,  c©ver  the  beds  with  slates,  brick, 
or  stone,  till  the  nuts  begin  to  spring  :  then  off  with 
the  stone  covering.     If  the  winter  sets  in  severely, 


(     70     ) 

cover  the  bfeds  with  rotten  clung,  leaves,  or  old  tan, 
before  laying  Oa  the  pavement. — If  the  autumn  be 
wet,  don't  sow  till  February ^  or  March,  early. 

Hoe  between  the  nuts  in  the  rows.  The  summer 
proving  dry,  water  them  once  or  twice  a  week.  By 
October,  or  the  following  spring,  they  may  be  put 
into  beds,  in  rows  a  foot  apart,  and  four  inches  in 
the  row,  to  remain  two  years  longer ;  carefully 
trimming  all  the  side  shoots,  leaving  only  one 
straight  stem. 

When  planted  out  for  good,  let  it  rather  be  in  au- 
tumn; they  are  to  stand  till  tbe  next  spring  tivehe- 
month,  and  then  are  headed  down  to  two  eyes  abo'oe 
ground,  cutting  near  as  may  be  to  an  eye,  and  sloping 
to  the  north,  that  the  shoot  which  is  thrown  out 
may  cover  the  stem  in  the  first  season,  which  it  will 
do,  and  grow  six  or  seven  feet. — If  they  are  not 
headed  down  in  this  manner,  they  will  never  be 
straight,  handsome  trees.  Toung  trees  must  not  be 
headed  down  immediately  after  transplanting.  They 
ought  to  be  well  rooted  before  that  operation  is  per- 
formed :  and  it  is  to  be  obscrvec>,  that  the  larger  the 
sterns  are  when  headed,  the  stronger  and  more  luxu- 
rient  will  the  shoots  be. 


(     71     ) 

WALNUTS. 

THOSE  commonly  cultivated  in  England  arc 
varieties  from  the  common  walnut,  viz. — The 
double^  the  large^  the  French^  the  thin-skinned,  and 
the  late. 

They  are  best  raised  from  the  nut,  gathered  full 
ripe.  The  thin-shelled  are  preferred  for  this  pur- 
pose. When  ripe,  let  them  remain  till  they  begin 
to  drop  off  of  themselves  :  shaking  the  tree  will  then 
bring  them  down.  Beating  with  poles  injures  the 
tree  much,  by  breaking  the  young  shoots.  The}" 
A\  ill  be  fit  to  transplant  the^r^r  autumn  after  sow- 
ing, if  they  have  thriven  veil — if  not,  let  them  con- 
tinue another  year. — Bed  them  out  in  the  manner 
directed  for  Chesnuts  ;  transplanting  every  second 
or  third  year,  until  planted  out  for  good.  This 
causes  their  throwing  out  Jine  horizontal  roots,  and 
bring  Uiem  to  a  hearing  state  much  sooner  than 
\\  hen  they  make  deep  tap-roots. 

Train  them  up  with  fine  single  stems  to  seven  feet 
high,  before  they  are  suffered  to  form  heads ;  the 
branches  will  also  be  out  of  the  reach  of  cattle.  The 
time  of  transplanting  tliem  out,    depends  on  their 


(     72     ) 

progress  in  the  nursery :  they  must  remain  there 
till  they  have  grown  to  a  tolerable  size,  and  to  the 
height  just  mentioned  as  proper  for  standards. 

The  ground  is  to  be  well  plowed  or  trenched  ;  and 
the  trees  to  be  planted,  at  first,  in  rows  six  feet  apart, 
and  the  sajne  distance  from  tree  to  tree  in  the  rows, 
in  quincunx  order  ;  and  thus  remain  until  they  come 
into  bearing.  After  making  choice  of  the  best 
fruit-trees,  the  other  trees  may  be  planted  for  tim- 
ber, or  made  use  of  in  stakes  or  any  other  way. 
The  bearing  trees  must  be  thinned  as  they  increase 
in  size,  till  they  are  at  the  proper  distance  for  full- 
grown  trees,  which  may  be  24  to  48  feet,  accord- 
ing to  the  richness  of  soil  and  progress  in  the  trees' 
growth. 

In  trimming  stems  of  Wahut -trees,  cut  off  the 
shoots  and  small  branches  close  to  the  bole  ;  and  in 
lopping,  cutting  out  cross  branches,  or  such  as  arc 
damaged  by  winds  and  accidents,  always  cut  at  a 
fork  or  eye  ;  otherwise  a  part  of  the  branch  will  die 
and  injure  the  tree.  But  be  it  a  part  or  the  whole 
cut  oif,  the  composition  is  to  be  immediately  applied. 


(     73     ) 

Walnuts  thrive  best  in  a  deep^  rich  soil.  They 
are  well  worth  cultivating :  the  yearly  value  of  the 
fruit  being  very  considerable.  There  is  a  great 
deal  made  by  thinning  the  nuts  for  pickling^  for 
home  and  foreign  markets.  At  Beddington,  about 
50  Walnut-trees,  and  but  half  of  them  full  bear- 
ers, have  been  let  at;£30.  ;/^40.  and  ^50.  according 
to  the  crop :  and  the  renter  is  thought  to  clear 
;£50.  by  the  bargain. 

The  leaves  of  Walnuts  steeped  in  boiling  wa- 
ter, and  that  infusion  mixed  with  lime-water,  soap- 
suds and  urine,  is  very  efficacious  in  destroying 
slugs  and  worms  in  the  ground^  and  insects  on  trees. 

IValnuts  for  keeping  should  drop  of  themselves, 
and  afterwards  be  laid  in  an  open  airy  place  till 
they  are  thoroughly  dried :  then  pack  them  in  jars, 
boxes,  or  casks,  with  fine  clear  sand,  well  dried 
in  the  sun,  in  an  qven,  or  before  the  fire,  in  layer* 
of  sand  and  walnuts  alternately;  set  them  in  a  dry 
place,  but  not  where  it  is  too  hot.  They  so  arc 
kept  till  the  end  of  April.  If  they  ever  become 
shrivelled  steep  them  in  milk  and  water,  six  or 
eight  hours. 


(     74     ) 


GRAFTING  AND  BUDDING 


AND 


ON  USING  COMPOSITION  INSTEAD  OF  GRAFTINGCLAY. 

Mil.  FORSYTH  gives  directions  for  render- 
ing grafting  plain  and  easy  to  those  who  have  not 
been  regularly  instructed  in  the  art  from  general 
practice .;  and  he  adds  a  method  followed  by  him 
for  some  years  ;  and  which,  he  thinks,  will  be 
found  an  improvement. 

The  shoots  or  cions  used  in  grafting,  called  also 
grafts^  are  to  be  chosen  with  observingthe  follow- 
ing directions  carefully  : — 1st.  That  they  are 
shoots  of  the  former  year.  2dly.  Always  take 
them  from  healthy,  fruitful  trees.  If  they  be 
sickly  trees,  t\\e  grafts  often  partake  of  the  distem- 
per ;  and  if  taken  from  young  luxuriant  trees,  they 
may  continue  to  produce  luxuriant  shoots,  but  arc 
seldom  so  productive  as  those  taken  from  fruitful 
trees,  whose  shoots  are  more  compact,  and  the 
joints  closer  together.  3dly.  Prefer  those  grafts 
taken  from  the  lateral  or  horizontal  branches,  to 
those  of  the  strong  perpendicular  shoots. 


(     75     ) 

These  grafts  should  be  cut  off  from  the  trees 
before  their  buds  begin  to  swell  ;  which  generally 
is  three  or  four  weeks  before  the  season  for  graft- 
ing :  therefore  when  they  are  cut  off,  lay  them  in 
the  ground  with  t\\Q  cut  downwards^  burying  them 
half  their  length,  and  covcringtheir  tops  with  dry 
litter,  for  preventing  their  drying.  If  a  small 
joint  of  the  former  year's  wood  be  cut  off  with 
the  cion,  it  will  preserve  it  the  better  j  and  when 
they  are  grafted,  this  may  be  cut  off,  for  at  the 
same  time  the  cions  must  be  cut  to  a  proper  length 
before  they  are  inserted  in  the  stocks ;  but  till  then 
the  shoots  should  remain  of  the  full  length,  as 
taken  from  the  trees.  If  these  cions  are  to  be 
carried  far,  their  ends  ought  to  be  put  in  a  lump  of 
clay,  and  wrap  them  up  in  moss,  which  preserves 
them  fresh  a  month  or  longer;  but  these  should 
be  cut  from  the  trees  earlier  than  what  are  to  be 
grafted  near  where  the  trees  grow, 

Next  of  the  stock,  or  trees  intended  to  be  graft- 
ed :  these  are  either  old  trees  growing  where  they 
are  to  remain,  whose  fruit  is  intended  to  be 
changed,  or  young  trees  raised  in  the  nursery  for 
a  supply  to  the  garden.  In  the  former,  there  is  no 
other  choice  than  of  the  branches^  such  as  are 


(     76     ) 

young,  healthy,  well  situated,  and  have  smooth 
bark:  if  these  grow  against  walls  or  espaliers, 
there  should  be  grafted  six,  eight  or  ten  branches, 
as  is  the  size  of  the  trees  by  which  they  will  be 
sooner  furnished  with  branches  again,  than  when 
a  less  number  of  cions  are  put  in  5  but  in  standard 
trees,  four,  or  at  most  six  cions  will  be  sufficient. 

In  the  choice  0^ young  stocks  for  grafting,  prefer 
those  raised  from  seeds,  and  that  have  been  once 
or  twice  transplanted. 

Next  to  these,  the  stocks  raised  from  cuttings 
'  layers.     Suckers  from  the  roots  of  other  trees 
should  always  be  rejected. 


or 


Having  directed  the  choice  of  cions  and  stocks, 
he  then  speaks  of  the  operation^  and  points  out  the 
following  tools,  viz. 

1st.  A  neat  small  hand-saw  for  cutting  off  the 
heads  of  large  stocks. 

2.  A  good  strong  knife,  with  a  thick  back,  to 
make  clefts  in  the  stocks. 


(  "  ) 

3.  A  sharp  pen-knife,  or  budding-knife,  to  cut 
the  grafts. 

4.  A  grafting  chisel  and  a  small  mallet. 

5.  Bass  strings  or  woollen  yarn,  to  tie  grafts 
with  ;  and  such  other  instruments  and  materials 

as  may  be  found  necessary. 

■—> 

6.  A  quantity  of  clay,  prepared  a  montli  before 
wanted,  and  kept  turned  and  mixed  like  morter 
every  other  day :  this  is  to  be  made  thus — 

Get  a  quantity  of  strong,  fat  loam :  take  new 
stone-horse  dung,  and  break  it  in  among  the  loam  ; 
cut  a  little  straw  or  hay  very  small  and  mix 
amongst  it,  for  making  the  loam  hold  together 
better;  and  if  there  be  a  quantity  of  salt  added, 
the  clay  will  be  prevented  from  dividing  in  dry 
weather  :  stir  these  well  together,  putting  water 
to  them  as  in  making  morter.  It  should  be  hol- 
lowed like  a  dish,  filled  with  water,  and  kept  eve- 
ry other  day  stirred :  but  let  it  not  be  exposed  to 
frost  or  drying  winds  ;  and  the  cftcner  stirred  the 
better. 


(     78     ) 

Of  late  years,  says  Mr.  F.  some  persons  have 
made  use  of  another  composition  for  grafting, 
which  keeps  out  the  air  better  than  clay.  It  is 
composed  oi  turpentine,  bees-wax  and  roshi,  melt- 
ed together;  when  of  a  proper  consistence  it  is 
put  on  the  stock,  round  the  graft,  as  the  clay  usual- 
ly is  applied.  If  but  a  quarter  inch  thick,  it  keeps 
out  the  air  better  than  the  clay  ;  and  as  cold  will 
harden  this,  there  is  no  danger  of  its  being  hurt  by 
frost,  which  is  apt  to  cause  the  clay  to  cleave,  and 
sometimes  to  fall  off;  and  when  the  heat  of  the 
summer  comes  on,  this  mixture  will  melt  and  fall 
off  without  trouble.  In  using  this,  there  should 
be  a  tin  pot,  with  conveniency  to  keep  a  very  gen- 
tle fire  with  small  coal ;  otherwise  the  cold  will 
soon  condense  the  mixture :  but  be  careful  not  to 
apply  it  too  hot,  lest  the  graft  be  injured.  A  per- 
son a  little  accustomed  to  this  composition  will  ap- 
ply it  very  fast  ;  and  it  is  much  easier  for  him  to 
work  with  than  clay,  especially  if  the  season  is 
ccld. 

There  are  several  ways  of  grafting,  but  there 
are  four  principal  ones,  [see  pi.  XL]  Perhaps  the 
common  whip-grafting  alone  might  suffice  for  the 
farmer  and  country  gardeners^  purposes  in  grafting : 


(     79     ) 

1.  Grafting  in  the  rind,  or  shoulder  graftings  or 
crown  grafting  ;  proper  only/or  large  trees  :  per- 
formed the  end  of  March  or  early  in  ^pril. 

2.  C/^-ar^/«^,  or  stock,  or  slit-grafting  :  in- 
tended for  lesser  stocks,  one  or  two,  or  more  inches 
diameter  :  in  February  or  March. 

3.  fV hip-grafting,  or  tongue-grafting  ;  proper 
for  small  stocks,  of  one  inch,  half  an  inch,  or  less 
diameter  :  "  It  is  the  most  effectual  of  any,  and  is 
the  most  in  use." 

4.  Grafting  by  approach,  or  ablactation.  This 
is  practised  when  the  stock  to  be  grafted  on,  and 
the  tree  from  which  the  graft  is  taken,  stand  so  neai' 
each  other  that  they  may  be  joined  ;  and  should 
be  performed  in  jlpril.  It  also  is  called  the 
Inarching  method,  and  is  chiefly  used  for  Jas- 
mines, Oranges,  and  other  tender  exotics. 

For  the  several  methods,  in  general,  see  the 
plate  XI.  But  the  common  method  oi  whip-graft- 
ing will  suffice  for  the/^/';?zf  r'j-  and  country  garden- 
er s  purposes. — It  is  thus  performed  by  cutting  off 
the  head  of  the  stock  slopifig  ;  then  make  a  notch 


(     80     ) 

in  the  slope  towards  the  upper  part  downward,  a 
little  more  than  half  an  inch  deep  to  receive  the 
cion,  which  must  be  cut  with  a  slope  upward, 
and  a  slit  made  in  this  slope  like  a  tongue,  which 
tongue  must  be  inserted  into  the  slit  made  in  the 
slope  of  the  stock,  and  the  cion  is  placed  on  one 
side  of  the  stock,  so  that  the  two  rinds  of  both 
cion  and  stock  may  be  equal  and  join  together  ex- 
actly :  then  a  ligature  of  bass  fastens  the  cion  so 
that  it  may  be  easily  displaced;  after  which  it  is 
clayed  over,  as  in  former  instances. 

Grafting  in  the  4th  method  may,  however,  be 
proper  to  practice  sometimes,  as  the  ivalnnt^  fig^ 
mulberry^  and  certain  other  exotics,  cannot  be 
grafted  vi^ith  effect  in  any  other  method,  especially 
evergreens  :  but  then  the  trees  are  always  weakly. 

In  a  long  continuance  of  r/A-^  weather^  the  grafts 
frequently/^///  of  taking.  It  is  therefore  best  to 
grafc  in  moist  giving  weather. 

It  is  better  to  use  the  composition  on  many  ac- 
counts. Rubbing  some  of  it  into  the  incision  pre- 
vents canker^  and  in  applying  round  the  graft  a 
much  less  quantity  will  suffice  than  of  the  clay. 


(     81     ) 

It  need  not  be  more  than  three  inches  round  in 
grafting  small  stems  or  shoots,  and  in  proportion  for 
what  are  larger  :  the  composition  will  keep  the  cion 
moist,  and  will  not  crack  and  fall  oft'  in  dry  weather 
as  clay  will.  This  composition  used  in  grafting 
should  be  made  to  work  easily  with  a  hand  or  knife, 
rather  softer  than  grafting-clay  commonly  is. 

Grafting  or  budding  should  be  performed  near 
^  may  be  to  the  upper  side.  Insert  the  cion  or  bud 
at  the  joint  a  little  above  the  cross  shoot. 

Budding  is  best  learned  how  to  be  effectually  per- 
formed by  actual  instruction,  seeing  it  done  in  expe- 
rience :  which  in  every  neighbourhood  may  be  ob- 
tained. In  three  or  four  weeks  it  may  be  seen  what 
buds  have  taken  :  the  shrivelled  and  black  are  dead. 
Those  that  remain  plump  are  to  have  their  bandages 
tlien  loc^ened,  to  prevent  pinching  the  stock  and 
kill  the  bud. — The  March  following  cut  off  the 
etock  three  inches  above  the  bud,  sloping  it. 


M 


(     82     ) 

OF  A  GARDEN. 

MR.  FORSYTH  recommends  that  the  garden 
be  on  a  gentle  declhity  towards  the  south,  a  Httle 
eastwardly  inchned.  If  in  a  bottom,  the  wind  has 
the  less  effect  on  it ;  but  then  damps  ?iw\fogs  will  be 
prejudicial  to  the  fruit  and  herbage.  If  too  high  si- 
tuated, the  fury  of  the  ^^inds  will  damage  the 
branches,  blossoms  and  fruit.  It  should  be  well 
sheltered  from  the  iionb  and  cast^  to  prevent  blight- 
ing winds  affecting  plants  ;  and  also  from  the  west- 
erly winds,  hurtful  to  gardens  in  spnng  or  summer 
months. 

The  best  shelter  of  them  is  from  gentle  rising 
hills  and  plantations  of  forest-trees,  at  due  distances 
not  to  shade  the  garden  j  giving  a  free  passage  of 
sun  and  air.  Fruit-trees^  in  shrubberies,  he  recom- 
mends to  be  intermixed. 

In  laying  out  a  new  garden,  he  says,  choose  a 
good  so'il^  the  deeper  the  better^  of  a  mellow,  pliable 
nature,  moderately  dry  in  quality.  If  it  has  an  un- 
cven  surface^  do  not  be  persuaded  to  lei^el  it.  The 
best  soil  is  a  rich  tncIlo^M  loam  ;  the  Morst  a  stiff 
heavy  cla)-.    A  light  sand  is  also  unfit.     Whenever 


(     83     ) 

horse  dung  is  applied,   it  is  first  to  be  perfectly  rot- 
ted :  it  otherwise  will  burn  up  the  crop. 

The  form  he  would  have  in  preference,  is  an  ob- 
long or  square,  if  at  liberty  ;  and  the  size  from  one 
acre  to  six  or  eight  within  the  wall,  according  to  de- 
mand for  vegetables  in  the  family.  Brick  'wall  is  pre- 
ferable to  stone,  and  ought  to  be  10  to  12  feet  high : 
but  if  there  be  a  plenty  of  %) ailing  or  ground  suffi- 
cient to  admit  it,  he  would  prefer  a  wall  of  ten  feet 
high,  to  those  higher,  l;eing  convinced  they  will  be 
more  convenient.  If  the  ground  is  to  be  spared, 
surround  the  garden  luith  a  border  or  slip,  40  to  60 
feet  wide,  or  more  ;  and  this,  he  says,  inclose  again 
with  an  oak  paling,  6  to  8  feet  high,  Avith  a  cheval 
de  frise.  He  recommends  a  cheval  de  frise  to  be 
thus  made  :  A  piece  of  wood,  long  as  convenient, 
about  four  inches  broad,  one  inch  and  quarter  thick ; 
the  upper  side  planed  to  an  edge,  sloping  from  the 
top  and  centre  on  each  side,  like  a  roof.  Draw  a 
line  on  each  side  from  end  to  end  about  one  fourth 
of  an  inch  below  the  upper  edge  and  centre :  through 
these  lines  drive  tivehe-penny  nails  about  four  inches 
distance  from  each  other,  so  as  to  come  out  near  the 
upper  edge  on  the  opposite  side.  Each  nail,  he  adds, 
sliould  be  opposite  the  space  between  two  nails  on 


(     84     ) 

the  other  side.  The  nail-heads  should  be  sunk  in 
the  wood,  and  small  strips  nailed  over  them  :  then 
drive  in  tenter-hooks  between  the  nail  points,  and 
nail  the  whole  firmly  on  the  outside  of  the  top  of  the 
paling. 

By  making  slips  on  the  outside  oi\\\t  garden  wail, 
you  will  have  ground  for  gooseberries,  currants, 
strawberries,  &c.  cucumbers  or  melons:  and  both 
sides  the  wall  may  be  planted. 

The  new  garden  should  be  ploughed  or  dug  thre€ 
or  four  times  before  any  thing  be  planted  in  it. 

It  is  a  convenience  that  a  garden  lies  near  a  rivtt 
or  brook  ;  from  these  conduct  the  water  by  drains 
or  pipes.  If  the  garden  is  too  high  for  distributing 
the  water  in  those  ways,  and  it  is  near  a  public  road, 
and  on  a  declivity,  make  a  drain  or  cut  from  the  road, 
for  carrying  the  water  of  it  in  rainy  weather  to  a 
large  cistern  or  tank  in  the  upper  part  of  the  garden. 
The  best  time  is  the  night  for  turning  on  the  watef 
into  the  garden.  The  pipes,  cocks,  &:c.  for  facili- 
tating it  will  seem  a  considerable  expence  at  first  j 
but  they  repay  it  by  saving  time  which  would  b6 
spent  in  pumping  and  carrying  water.     If  pumped 


(     85     ) 

from  a  deep  ivell,  it  should  be  into  a  large  reservoir, 
in  which  it  should  be  exposed  to  sun  and  air  some 
days. 

The  middle  ^\'alks,  he  says,  should  be  seven  feet 
wide,  enough  for  a  cart  to  pass  ;  the  others  tliree 
or  four  feet  broad,  with  a  border  on  each  side,  5  or 
6  feet  \\  ide  at  least  between  the  walk  and  the  fruit- 
trees.  In  kitchen  gardens,  walks  are  generally  gra- 
velled, seldom  in  turf ;  frequent  wheelhig  and  tread- 
ing soon  destroying  the  grass  :  but  a  binding  sand 
makes  good  walks,  easily  kept :  for  v\  hen  moss  or 
weeds  begin  to  grow,  they  may  be  cleaned  \viih  a 
horse  hoe,  or  scuffled  over  with  a  Dutch  hoe,  in  dry 
weather,  raking  it  a  day  or  two  af  cr ;  but  sea- coal 
ashes  make  the  best  kitchen  garden  walks,  cnsicr 
kept  than  others,  and  firm  and  dry  :  cleaner  than 
sand,  especially  after  a  frost.  Bottoms  of  walks  are 
filled  with  brick  rubbish,  chippings  of  stones,  or 
gravel  and  stones.  There  sometimes  will  be  under- 
ground drains  to  make. 

When  the  soil  is  ivet  and  stiff,  subject  to  detain 
moisture,  under-ground  drains  must  Qdiry  oiF  the 
water  ;  making  the  main  drain  under  the  %vali\  to 
receive  and  carry  off  the  \^atcr  under  the  quarters. 


(     86     ) 

Good^  ijoell-flavored  fruit  can  never  be  produced, 
unless  drai?iing,  where  the  soil  lies  wet,  be  practised ; 
and  kitchen  plants  will  also  be  very  defective  with- 
out that  attention. 

Borders  under  the  walls,  i/isidc,  should  be  10  to 
20  feet  wide,  as  is  the  size  of  the  garden,  for  giv- 
ing free  passage  to  the  roots  of  the  trees  to  spread. 
A  footpath  should  be  two  and  a  half  foot  front)  the 
wall,  for  greater  ease  in  nailing  trees,  gathering 
fruit,  &c.  This  iva/k  should  be  two  to  two  and  a 
half  feet  wide  (to  admit  a  barrow  or  barrow-engine 
in  watering  the  trees),  and  covered  a\  ith  sand,  or 
cocil-ashes  better,  about  2  or  3  inches  thick,  without 
mbbish  or  gravel  below.  On  these  borders  may  be 
carl}'  or  late  crops  ;  but  avoid  to  plant  any  deep -root- 
ting  plants^  such  as  cabbages,  beans,  peas,  (except 
peas  for  the  early  frames),  as  they  would  be  very 
hurtful  to  the  trees. 

Melons  arc  best  v.orkcd  in  brick-pits^  coped  with 
stone  or  oak,  12  feet  imde  and  two  and  a  half  deep  : 
the  length  according  to  the  number  of  frames  to  be 
worked.  Size  of  lights  for  early  melons,  5  feet 
longy  3  broad : — for  others  they  require  to  be  6  feet 
long^  and  four  broad.     The  former  should  be  four, 


(     87     ) 

and  the  latter  three  light  boxes. — For  the  pits  a 
nine-inch  wall  will  be  sufficient. 

There  should,  he  says,  be  a  walk  between  the 
ridges,  6  or  7  feet  broad,  sufficient  to  admit  a  cart 
to  carry  dung  ;  much  more  expeditious  than  wheel- 
ing. The  %valk  should  be  made  up  as  high  as  the 
coping,  and  sloping  gently  towards  each  end ;  the 
bottom  should  be  filled  up  and  covered  as  before  di- 
rected. 

A  loose  drain  should  be  made  along  the  middle 
of  the  bottom  of  the  pit,  to  carry  off  wet  and  oozing 
of  the  dung  to  a  cistern  or  tank  made  on  purpose 
to  receive  it. 

When  a  garden  is  planted  and  finished,  says  Mr. 
Forsyth,  it  a\  ill  be  convenient  to  have  a  plan  of  it, 
with  the  name  of  each  tree  inserted  in  its  proper 
place. 

Walls  of  kitchen  gardens,  from  ten  to  fourteen  feet 
high,  should  have  ih^  foundation  two  or  two  and  a 
a  half  bricks  thick  ;  the  off-set  not  above  one  course 
higher  than  the  level  of  the  border  :  the  av  all  then 
to  set-off  a  brick  and  a  half  thick.     Piers  should 


(     88     ) 

strenf^hen  the  walls,  40  to  60  feet  apart ;  to  project 
half  a  brijk  beyond  the  wall.  If  the  coping  is  of 
luood,  it  answers  ^vell  for  hanging  nets  to  against 
^^fts  of  birds. 

He  repeats  the  superiority  of  bricks  over  stone 
walls,  favoring  fruits  better  in  ripening.  When  a 
kitchen  garden  contmns  four  acres,  it  may  be  inter- 
sected by  two  or  more  cross  ivalis  ;  which  greatly 
augments  the  quantity  of  fruit ;  warms  and  shelters 
the  garden  from  high  Avinds. 


ORCHARDS. 

WHERE  a  large  supply  of  fruit  is  wanted,  Mr. 
Forsyth  says,  Orchards  are  appropriated  to  the 
grov/th  oi'  standard  fruit-trees  only  ;  and  generally 
consist  of  apple-trees,  pear-trees,  plum-trees  and 
clierry-trees  ;  but  a  complete  Orchard  ought  also 
to  have  quinces,  medlars,  mulberries,  services,  fil- 
berts, Spanish  nuts,  and  barberries  ;  as  also  walnuts 
and  chsenuts.  These  last  would  break  high  w  inds, 
and  he  would  prefer  to  plant  them  along  the  bounda- 
ry of  the  Orchard.  In  choosing  the  trees,  admit 
none  but  v;ith  good  roots,  fair  clean  stems,  and  pro- 
per  heads. 


% 


(     89     ) 

In  selecting  pears  and  apples  let  the  assortment 
range  in  succession,  for  supply  of  the  table  during 
the  whole  year.  A  very  few  of  the  summer  sorts 
will  suffice  ; — more  of  the  autumn; — still  more  of 
the  winter  will  be  called  for.  On  the  winter  sorts 
the  dependence  is  from  January  to  July, — The  me- 
tbod  of  presermug  them,  post. 

What  has  been  said  of  the  situation  and  soil  of  a 
Garden^  also  applies  to  Orchards — that  they  be  ra- 
ther elevated  than  low.  On  a  gentle  declivity,  open 
to  the  south  and  south-east.  Also  they  should  be 
well  sheltered  from  the  eastern,  northerly  and  west- 
ern winds  :  but  see  of  Gardens^  in  its  place.  Such 
'ds walnut  saidcbesnut-trees  are  advantageously  placed 
on  the  exterior  of  the  Orchard.  The  size  of  an 
Orchard  in  the  cyder-making  counties  of  England 
may  be  one  to  twenty  acres,  or  more.  A  loamy 
soil  is  best :  shingly  and  gravelly  soils  disagree  with 
fruit-trees,  unless  intermixed  with  a /o^wz.  Orchards 
should  be  dunged  once  in  two  or  three  )  ears. 

He  recommends  washing  the  Orchard  trees  an- 
nually in  February  or  March^  \\ith  the  following 
mixture,  to  destroy  eggs  of  insects,  and  prevent 
moss  from  growing.     JMix  fresh  cow-dung  with 


{     90     ) 

nrine  and  soap-suds ;  and  with  the  mixture  wash 
o^er  the  stems  and  branches  of  trees,  as  you  would 
}'our  room  with  whitewash ;  cutting  off  ihe  cankery 
parts  and  scrape  off  the  moss,  before  the  washing. 
In  the  course  of  the  summer  there  will  be  a  fine  new 
bark  coming  on.  Pare  off  all  old  canker.  When 
necessary  to  take  off  all  the  outer  bark,  the  stem,  &c. 
are  to  be  covered  with  the  composition  and  povjder^ 
patting  it  gently  do^Mi,  as  in  the  case  ^\  hen  large 
liiiibs  aie  cut  off. 

Repeating  the  abo\'e  wash  in  autumn,  after  fall 
of  the  leaf,  will  destroy  the  eggs  of  many  insects, 
that  hatch  in  autumn  and  winter.  This  washing  is 
found  of  great  service  to  all  fruit  and  forest  trees. 


GATHERING  APPLES  AND  PEARS. 

TIME    AND   MANNER     THEREOF. MANAGEMENT 

OF     THE    FRUIT-ROOM,  &C. 

NEVER  beat  or  shake  apples  down — hand-pick 
all,  from  standing  on  steps  for  the  purpose. — They 
should  be  light,  and  so  contri\  ed  that  the  ladder  may 
be  disengaged  from  the  back  at  pleasure  ;  fastening 


(     91     ) 

together  by  a  bolt  at  top.  At  top  should  be  a  broad 
step  to  stand  on,  with  room  for  the  basket  holding 
the  fruit.  Have,  in  the  beginnmg  together,  hand- 
baskets  of  different  sizes,  and  also  large  baskets  or 
hampers,  and  wheel-ban*ows.  At  the  bottoms  of 
the  large  baskets  and  hampers,  perfectly  dry  short 
fine  grass  from  summer  mow  ings,  kept  clean  and 
dry  for  the  pui'posc. 

He  observes  to  gather  the  fruit,  as  a  mark  of  its 
ripeness,  when  it  begins  to  fall,  (not  wind-falls,  or 
from  the  caterpillar).  If  the  fruit  comes  off  with- 
out any  force  used,  it  is  presumed  to  be  ripe  enough. 
But  sickness,  &c.  of  the  trees  may  make  it  seem 
riper  than  in  fact  it  is.  All  fruit  will  s/jrhel,  he 
says,  that  is  gathered  before  it  is  ripe. 

If  the  fruit  be  in  the  least  bruised  it  will  not  keep ; 
tlierefore  the  person  on  the  steps  picks  it  carefully, 
and  gently  lays  it  in  the  basket :  and  the  small 
baskets  are  to  be  gently  emptied  into  the  large. 

When  the  fruit  begins  to  fall  of  itself,  cover  the 
ground  under  the  tree  with  soft  grass  mowings, 
pease-haulm,  or  oat  or  barley  straw,  quite  dry.  This 
that  drops  of  itself,  lay  up  separate  from,  and  use  it 
before,  that  which  is  hand-picked* 


(     02     ) 

In  the  fruit-room  lay  dry  soft  grass  on  the  floor : 
lay  the  fruit  gently  from  the  baskets  in  heaps  on  the 
grass.  To  siveat  the  fruit,  co^'er  it  2  or  3  inches 
thick  on  the  top  \\ith  some  of  the  grass  ;  the  heaps 
may  be  two  to  three  feet  high.  They  lie  in  heaps 
two  weeks  ;  tlien  open  and  turn  them  oxer,  wiping 
each  apple  or  pear  with  a  dry  cloth ;  to  be  frequent- 
ly dried  during  the  process.  The  heaps  now  re- 
main 8  or  10  days  covered  as  before,  for  throwing 
off  the  watery  crudities.  Then  ivipe  the  fruit  one 
by  one. 

Gather  the  fruit  in  dry  weather,  and  when  the 
dew  is  off;  nor  is  it  to  be  gathered  in  the  evening 
after  the  dew  has  begun  to  fall.  Air  should  be  some- 
times admitted  for  carrying  off  the  sweat. 

The  most  perfect  way  of  keeping,  as  used  in 
England,  is  to  pack  it  in  glazed  earthen  jars,  sepa- 
rately trapping  peai's  and  apples  in  soft  paper.  Put 
dried  bran  in  the  jar,  then  a  layer  of  fruit ;  then  a 
little  more  bran;  and  so  on  alternately.  When 
full,  gently  shake  the  jar  ;  fill  up  \\i\h.  bran  and  paper 
at  top  of  all.  Cover  with  bladder  to  perfectly  ex- 
clude accession  of  air.  Fit  on  the  cover  of  the  jar  ; 
and  it  is  best  kept  in  a  room  where  a  fire  may  be, 
in  wet  or  damp  weather. 


(     93     ) 


CANKER  AND  GUM. 

CANKER  is  a  disease  which  occasions  the  bark 
of  trees  to  grow  rough  and  scabby  ;  and  turns  the 
nx)ood  affected  to  a  rusty ^  broivii  colour.  It  will  kill 
the  tree  if  not  stopt. 

The  Canker  nriay  arise,  on  apple-trees,  from  inju- 
dicious pruning,  from  \ht  footstalks  of  the  fruit  be- 
ing left  on  the  trees ^  and  from  injuries  in  applying 
ladders  in  gathering  the  fruit. — Another  cause,  very 
ixict  autumns^  which  prevents  the  young  wood  from 
ripening,  and  a  hard  frost  setting  in  after  it,  kills  the 
young  shoots.  These  are  not  to  be  left  on  the  tree. 
Birds  and  insects  destroying  the  buds,  also  give  the 
Canker. 

Dead  shoots  left  on  the  tree  through  summer, 
bring  on  Canker.  These  are  to  be  cut  off  in  the 
end  of  April  or  early  in  May.  He  advises  to  cut 
two  or  three  buds,  or  even  more,  below  the  appa- 
rently diseased  part :  cut  down  till  the  brown  colour 
in  the  shoot  disappears,  and  notliing  but  sound 
white  wood  remains. 


(     94     ) 

All  the  diseased  parts  of  the  bark  must  be  pared 
off.  The  inner  ivbite  bark  is  frequently  infected  : 
this  also  must  be  cut  away  till  no  infection  appears 
to  remain.  The  infection  in  the  inner  hark  appears 
like  dots  made  with  a  pen  ;  all  whereof  is  to  be  cut 
out  clean.  Wherever  Gum  oozes,  be  assured  the 
Canker  is  not  quite  eradicated. 

When  the  trunk  is  become  hollo\v,  cut  the  loose 
rotten  part  clean  out,  till  you  come  to  the  sound 
wood,  and  round  the  edges  of  the  hollow  part.  Then 
apply  the  composition  in  a  liquid  state,  with  a  pain- 
ter's brush  :  then  shake  some  of  the  powder  of  wood- 
ashes  and  burnt  bones  over  the  composition,  and  pat 
it  gently  down  with  the  hand.  See  of  making  and 
laying  on  of  the  composition. 

When  the  decay  is  great,  the  ground  is  to  be  open- 
ed, the  roots  examined,  and  the  rotten  parts  to  be 
cut  away  :  then  make  up  a  mass  of  the  composition^ 
mixed  with  seme  clay  ;  fill  the  hollow  ^\  ith  it,  to 
within  about  two  inches  of  the  surface  of  the  ground, 
treading  it,  or  pressing  it  w  ith  the  hand  close  as 
possible,  for  preventing  wet  from  penetrating  to  tlie 
roots,  and  leave  the  surface  of  the  composition 
sloping  from  the  tree  towards  the  outside  of  the 
border.  See. 


(     95     ) 

The  Gum  is  a  kind  of  gangrene  incident  to  friiit- 
rees  of  the  stone  kind ;  and  arises  from  injudicious 
pruning^  from  bruises y  or  injuries  received  in  the 
wood  or  bark.  The  Gum  is  to  be  cut  out  perfect- 
ly clean ;  and  grubs  must  be  sought  for,  and  they 
are  to  be  cut  out  before  the  composition  is  applied. 


OF    MIL-DEW,    HONEY-DEW,     AND 
BLIGHTS. 

MR.  FORSYTH,  in  general,  speaks  in  the  strain 
of  others  writing  on  these  subjects,  who  have  little 
more  than  guessed  at  the  nature  of  these  disorders  : 
the  most  likely  surmise  of  Mil-dew,  &c.  seems  to 
be  what  he  quotes  from  Mr.  Segar ;  \\  here  he  says, 
that  Mil-dew  is  of  a  very  sharp  corrosive  nature, 
and  by  its  acrimony  hinders  the  circulation  of  the 
nutritious  sap. 

Mr.  Forsyth  says,  when  danger  is  apprehended, 
wash  or  sprinkle  the  trees  well  with  urine  and  lime- 
water  mixed ;  and  when  the  young  and  tender 
shoots  are  much  infected,  ^vash  them  ^vell  with  a 
woollen  cloth  dipped  in  the  mixture  following,  to 
the  clearing  them  of  all  glutinous  matter,  that  their 


(     96     ) 

respiration  and  perspiration  may  not  be  obstructed  : 
r  Take  tobacco  a  pound,  sulphur  two  pounds,  un- 
slacked  lime  a  peck,  and  a  pound  of  elder  buds  :  on 
these  pour  ten  gallons  boiling  water — cover  it  close, 
to  stand  till  cold  :  then  add  cold  water,  as  much  as 
will  fill  a  hogshead.  After  standing  a  few  days  to 
settle,  take  off  the  scum,  and  it  is  fit  for  use. 

The  Honey-dew  he  directs  to  be  treated  in  the 
same  manner  :  and  he  cautions  tliat  trees  be  washed 
or  watered  early  enough  in  the  day  to  dry  before 
the  cold  air  of  the  night  arrives  ;  nor  should  it  be 
applied  whilst  the  sun  shines  very  hot. 

Blights,  he  says,  sometimes  destroy  the  whole 
tree ;  but  oftener  tlie  leaves  and  blossoms  only. 
Wash,  he  adds,  with  soap-suds  and  urine ;  the  sooner 
the  better  ;  and  even  with  a  woollen  cloth  dipped  in 
the  same  liquid  as  above  directed  for  mil-dew. 


OF  INSECTS. 

UNDER  the  head  of  Insects,  Mr.  Forsyth  gives 
a  long  list  of  them  ;  concerning  which,  the  imagi- 
nation becomes  tired  ;  and  it  is  tedious,  and  too  ge- 


(     97     ) 

nerally  unsatisfactory.  Of  the  Aphis  ;  he  says 
the  Aphides  or  Plant-lice  are  a  numerous  tribe, 
amounting  to  75  species.  Of  the  y^canis  there 
are  82  species.  Moisture,  he  thinks,  best  de- 
stroys them,  as  in  hot-houses  it  does  many  other 
insects.  The  Acarus  (or  Red  Spider)  also  de- 
stroy or  much  injure  'melons  in  dry  weather. 
There  are  other  species  of  160  sorts. 

It  would  be  heavy  work  to  enumerate  those 
plagues,  when  the  accounts  of  them  and  the  me- 
thods proposed  for  reducing  them  are  not  general- 
ly satisfactory  for  answering  the  views  of  the  hus- 
bandman therein.  The  general  applications  to 
the  trees  and  plants  are  powders  of  ashes  and  lime 
mixed  and  strewed  on  the?n — z\so  lime-water,  strew- 
ed through  the  tube  and  its  head,  of  a  water  en- 
gine that  forces. — Moreover,  in  hot-houses,  7nois' 
ture  destroys  some  sorts — Water  alone  is  applied 
often  in  hot-houses.  Melons  he  directs  to  be  ex- 
amined, and  when  the  leaves  curl  and  crack  in  the 
middle,  the  Acarus  or  R  ed  Spider  may  be  presumed 
to  have  effected  the  injury,  although  as  yet  they 
may  not  be  visible  to  the  eye.  In  this  state  of  the 
melons,  in  fine  warm  sunny  weather,  water  them 
all  over  the  leaves  from   a  watering-pot  with  a 


(     98     ) 

rose  J  or  an  engine,  about  six  in  the  morning,  and 
about  eight  o'clock  shade  them  with  mats^  if  the 
sun  shines,  and  shut  the  frames  close  down  till 
eleven  :  then  admit  a  little  air,  the  mats  remaining 
till  three  in  the  afternoon  ;  then  take  them  off. 
Endeavour  to  water  the  under  side  of  the  leaves, 
and  the  vines  may  be  cautiously  turned  partly  for 
the  purpose.  In  cold  frosty  weather  do  not  sprin- 
kle the  plants. 

A  wash  o^  urine  and  soap-suds  accumulated  and 
stored  in  winter,  he  largely  uses  to  his  trees  dis- 
tempered with  insects,  caterpillars  or  vermin  ; 
and  in  su?nmer  the  mixture  is  lowered  with  water. 
It  kills  also  slugs  near  the  roots  of  trees.  Urine 
and  suds  are  saved  in  tubs  in  winter  for  the  sum- 
mer's use. 

On  Forest-Trees  his  treatise  is  important ;  but 
it  is  here  prolix ;  and  being  a  subject  not  yet  scarce 
and  striking  to  the  attention  of  the  American  peo- 
ple, this  is  for  the  present  here  omitted. 


(     99     ) 


GENERAL   OBSERVATIONS 


DISEASES,    DEFECTS    AND    INJURIES    OF    FRUIT,  AND 
FRUIT-TREES. 

MR.  FORSYTH,  in  thirty  years  practice  in 
cultivating,  pruning,  and  keeping  garden  fruit- 
trees,  observed  that  from,  natural  causes,  acci- 
dents^ and  unskilful  ?nanagement^  they  were  sub- 
ject to  injuries  of  various  kinds,  which  always  di- 
minished their  fertility,  and  frequently  rendered 
them  wholly  unproductive. 

He  thereupon  offers  to  disclose  his  practice  and 
management  with  his  composition,  formerly  appli- 
ed in  the  manner  of  a  plaster,  but  now  in  a  liquid 
state,  and  laid  on  with  a  painter's  brush.  He  im- 
putes to  it  a  soft  and  healing  nature  ;  an  absorbent 
and  adhesive  quality  ;  and  that  by  resisting  the  force 
of  washing  rains  ^  the  contraction  of  nipping  frosts, 
and  the  effects  of  a  warvi  smt  or  drying  winds,  it 
excludes  the  pernicious  influence  of  a  changeable 
atmosphere. 


(     100     ) 

The  discovery  of  it,  he  adds,  is  the  result  of 
much  reflection   and  study,  during  a  long  course 
of  years,  and  of  a  great  variety  of  experiments, 
made  at  a  very  considerable  expence,  to  ascertain 
the  efficacious  powers  of  the  application.      "  Nor 
shall  I  hesitate  a  moment  to  declare  my  firm   be- 
lief, that  inhe7-ever  it  shall  be  properly  applied  by 
the  proprietors  of  gardc7is  or  orchards,  and  ifoo^j", 
it  will  be  productive  of  all  the  advantage  that  can 
be  derived  from  restoring  as   well   as  preserving 
vigour  2.ud  fertility  in  all  kinds  of  fruit-trees  ;    as 
also  from  preventing  decay ^  and  promoting  health 
and  sound  timber  in  every  species  of  fbrest-trecs." 


Mr.  Forsytlfs  Directions  for  making  a  Qovivozi- 
iioYi  for  curing  diseases^  defects  and  injuries  in  all 
kinds  of  Fruit  and  Forest-trees — and  the  method 
of  preparing  trees  and  laying  on  the  Composition. 

"  Take  one  bushel  of  fresh  cow-dung,  half  a 
''  bushel  of  Ihne  rubbish  of  old  buildings  (that 
"  from  the  ceilings  of  rooms  is  preferable),  half  a 
"  bushel  of  wood-ashes,  and  a  sixteenth  part  of  a 
"  bushel  of  pit  or  river  sandr  the  three  last  articles 
"  are  to  be  sifted  fine  before  thev  are  mixed  j  then 


(     101     ) 

*'  work  them  well  together  with  a  spade,  and  af- 
*'  terwards  with  a  wooden  beater,  until  the  stuff 
*'  is  very  smooth,  like  fine  plaster  used  for  the 
"  ceilings  of  rooms. 

"  The  Composition  being  thus  made,  care  must 

"  be  taken  to  prepare  the  tree  properly  for  its  ap- 

*'  plication,  by  cutting  away  all  the  dead,  decayed 

*'  and  injured  parts,  till  you  come   to  the  fresh, 

*'  sound  wood,  leaving  the  surface  of  the  wood 

"  very  smooth,  and  rounding  off  the  edges  of  the 

"  bark  with   a  draw-knife  or  other  instrument, 

"  perfectly  smooth,   which  must  be  particularly 

"  attended  to  ;  then  lay  on  the  plaster  about  one 

"  eighth  of  an  inch  thick  all  over  the  part  where 

"  the  wood  or  bark  has  been  so  cut  away  ;   finish- 

"  ing  off  the  edges  as  thin  as  possible  ;  then  take 

*'  a  quantity  of  dry  powder  of  wood-ashes  mixed 

"  with  the  sixth  part  of  the  same  quantity  of  the 

"  ashes  of  burnt  bones  ;  put  it  into  a  tin  box,  with 

"  holes  in  the  top,    and  shake  the  powder  on  the 

"  surface  of  the  plaster,  till  the  whole  is  covered 

'•  over  with  it,  letting  it  remain  for  half  an  hour 

"  to  absorb  the  moisture  ;  then  apply  more  pow- 

*'  der,  rubbing  it  on  gently  with  the  hand,  andrc- 

"  peating  the  application  of  the   powder  till  the 

"  whole  plaster  becomes  a  dry  smooth  surface. 


(     102     ) 


(C 


All  trees  cut  down  near  the  ground  should 
have  the  surface  made  quite  smooth,  rounding 
"  it  off  in  a  small  degree,  as  before  mentioned ; 
"  and  the  dry  powder  directed  to  be  used  afcer- 
"  wards  should  have  an  equal  quantity  of  powder 
"  of  alabaster  mixed  with  it,  in  order  the  better 
*'  to  resist  the  dripping  of  trees  and  heavy  rains. 

**  If  any  of  the  Composition  be  left  for  a  future 
*'  occasion,  it  should  be  kept  in  a  tub  or  other  ves- 
"  sel,  and  urine  of  any  kind  poured  on  it,  so  as 
*'  to  cover  the  surface  ;  otherwise  the  atmosphere 
"  will  greatly  hurt  the  efficacy  of  the  application. 

"  Where  lime  rubbish  of  old  buildings  cannot 
''  be  easily  got,  take  pounded  chalk,  or  common 
*'  lime,  after  having  been  slacked  a  month  at  least. 

"  As  the  growth  of  the  tree  will  gradually  af- 
*'  feet  the  plaster,  by  raising  up  its  edges  next  the 
*'  bark,  ofcre  should  be  taken  where  that  happens 
*'  to  rub  it  over  with  the  finger  when  occasion  may 
*'  require  (which  is  best  done  when  moistened  by 
"  rain),  that  the  plaster  may  be  kept  whole,  to 
"  prevent  the  air  and  wet  from  penetrating  into 
"  the  wound." 


(     103     ) 

"  Additional  Directions  for  making  and  usi7ig  the 
Composition. 

*'  To  the  foregoing  directions  for  making  and 
**  applying  the  composition^  it  is  necessary  to  add 
"  the  following. 

"  As  the  best  way  for  using  the  composition  is 
"  found,  by  experience,  to  be  in  a  liquid  state  ; 
"  it  must  therefore  be  reduced  to  the  consistence 
"  of  pretty  thick  paint,  by  mixing  it  up  with  a 
"  sufficient  quantity  of  uri}ie  and  soap-suds^  and 
*'  laid  on  with  a  painter's  brush.  The  powder  of 
*'  wood  ashes  and  burnt  bones  is  to  be  applied  as 
"  before  directed,  patting  it  down  with  the  hand. 

"  When  trees  are  become  hollow  you  must 
^^  scoop  out  all  the  rotten,  loose  and  dead  parts 
*'  of  the  trunk,  till  you  come  to  the  solid  wood, 
"  leaving  the  surface  fmooth  ;  then  cover  thehol- 
**  low,  and  every  part  where  the  canker  has  been 
"  cut  out,  or  branches  lopped  off,  with  the  com- 
"  position ;  and  as  the  edges  grow,  take  care 
*'  not  to  let  the  new  wood  come  in  contact  with 
"  the  dead,  part  of  which  it  may  be  sometimes 
**  necessary  to  leave ;  but  cut  out  the  old  dead 


(      104     ) 

*'  wood  as  the  new  advances,  keeping  a  hollow 
*'  between  them,  to  allow  the  new  wood  room  to 
""  extend  itself,  and  thereby  fill  np  the  cavity, 
"  which  it  will  do  in  time,  so  as  to  make  as  it  were 
''  a  new  tree.  If  the  cavity  be  large  you  may  cut 
''  away  as  much  at  one  operation  as  will  be  suffi- 
"  cient  for  three  years.  But  in  this  you  are  to  be 
*•■  guided  by  the  size  of  the  wound  and  other  cir- 
"  cumstances.  When  the  new  wood,  advancing 
''  from  both  sides  of  the  wound  has  almost  met, 
*'  cut  off  the  bark  from  both  the  edges,  that  the 
*'  solid  wood  may  join,  v/hich,  if  properly  ma- 
*'  naged,  it  will  do  leaving  only  a  slight  seam  in 
^'  the  bark.  If  the  tree  be  very  much  decayed, 
*'  do  not  cut  away  all  the  dead  wood  at  once, 
*'  which  would  weaken  the  tree  too  much,  if  a 
"  standard,  and  endanger  it  being  blown  down  by 
*'  the  wind.  It  will  therefore  be  necessary  to  leave 
*'  part  of  the  dead  wood  at  first,  to  strengthen  the 
"  tree,  and  to  cut  it  out  by  degrees  as  the  nev/ 
'^  wood  is  formed.  If  there  be  any  canker,  or  gum 
"  oozing,  the  infected  parts  must  be  pared  off,  or 
*'  cut  out  with  a  proffer  instrument.  When  the 
"  stem  is  very  much  decayed,  and  hollow,  it  will 
*'  benecessary  toopen  the  ground  ^md  examine  the 
^^  roots ;  then  proceed  as  directed  for  hollow  peach 


(      105     ) 

"  trees,  [see  pi.  II.  and  V.  which  shew  the  manner 
*'  of  preparing  hollow  trees,  and  also  the  growing 
*'  of  the  wood.3 
• 
*'  Some  months  before  the  publication  of  the  Ob- 
''  ser'oat'ions  on  the  diseases  y  ^c.  of  fruit  and  forest 
*'  trees y  I  had  tried  the  composition  in  a  liquid  state, 
*'  but  did  not  think  myself  warranted  to  make  it 
*'  public  until  I  had  experienced  its  effects  through 
"  the  winter.  The  success  answered  my  most  san- 
*'  guine  expectations ;  and  I  have  used  it  in  that 
"  way  ever  since.  By  using  the  composition  in  a 
*'  liquid  state^  more  than  three  fourths  of  the  time 
"  and  labour  is  saved  ;  and  I  find  it  is  not  so  liable 
"  to  be  thrown  off  as  the  lips  grow,  as  when  laid  on 
"  in  the  consistence  of  plaster  :  It  adheres  firmly  to 
*'  the  naked  part  of  the  wound,  and  yet  easily  gives 
*'  way  as  the  new  wood  and  bark  advances." 

'*  The  first  time  that  I  tried  the  composition  in  a 
*'  liquid  form  was  upon  an  elm  A\hich  had  been 
*'  planted  about  twenty  years.  It  had  been  very 
"  much  bruised  by  the  roller,  had  several  cavities 
"  in  it,  and  was  very  much  bark-bound  besides. 
"  Having  prepared  the  wounds,  and  applied  the 
"  composition  with  a  painter's  brush,  I  took  my 


(     106     ) 

"  knife  and  scarified  the  tree  in  four  places ;  I  also 
*'  shaved  off  with  a  drawing-knife  all  the  cankery 
*'  outer  bark,  and  covered  the  iMhole  tree  with  the 
*'  composition^  shaking  \ht powder  of  luood-ashee  and 
'*  bimit  bones  allo'uer  it.  A  very  heavy  rain  began 
"  in  the  evening,  and  continued  all  night ;  yet,  to 
"  my  great  surprise,  in  the  morning  I  found  that 
*'  only  some  of  the  powder,  which  had  not  had  time 
"  to  dry  and  incorporate  with  the  composition, 
"  was  washed  off.  I  now  repeated  the  powder, 
"  and  without  any  thing  more  being  done  to  the 
"  tree,  the  wounds  healed  up,  and  the  bark  was  re- 
"  stored  so  compleatly  that  three  years  ago  it  could 
*'  hardly  be  discovered  where  the  wounds  had  been. 
"  The  scarifications  had  also  disappeared.  Some 
*' of  the  wounds  were  thirteen  inches  long,  eight 
"  broad,  and  three  deep.  Since  the  time  \\hen  it 
"  was  scarified,  the  tree  has  increased  ten  inches 
*'  more  in  circumference  than  a  healthy  tree  plant- 
"  ed  at  the  same  time  with  it,  about  sixteen  feet 
*'  distant,  which  was  not  scarified.'* 


(     107     ) 


BUDDING. 

THIS  is  practised  upon  all  sorts  of  stone  fruit  in 
particular ;  such  as  peaches,  nectarines,  cherries, 
plums,  &c.  also  oranges  and  jasmines  ;  and  is  pre- 
ferable to  any  sort  of  grafting  for  most  kinds  of  fruit. 

Provide  a  sharp  pen-knife  with  Jiat  baft  for  rais- 
ing the  bark  of  the  stock  to  admit  the  bud,  and  some 
sound  bass  mat  soaked  In  water.  The  cuttings  be- 
ing taken  oif  from  the  trees,  choose  a  smooth  part  of 
the  stock,  5  or  6  inches  above  the  surface  of  the 
ground,  if  designed  ybr  dwarfs,  and  for  half  stand- 
ards at  three  feet;  hut  for  standards,  bud  six  or  more 
feet  above  the  ground  :  then  cut  horizontally  across 
the  rind  of  the  stock  ;  and  from  the  middle  of  that 
cut  make  a  slit  downwards  about  two  inches  long, 
forming  a  T  :  be  careful  not  to  cut  too  deep  and 
wound  the  stock.  Having  cut  off  the  leaf  from  the 
bud,  leaving  the  footstalk  remaining,  make  a  cross 
cut  about  half  an  inch  below  the  eye,  and  with  the 
knife  slit  off  the  bud  with  part  of  the  wood  to  it,  in 
form  of  an  escutcheon  ;  this  done,  next  with  the 
knife  pull  off  thdX  part  of  the  wood  vdiich  was  taken 
with  the  bud,  observing  if  the  eye  of  the  bud  be  left 


(     108     ) 

to  it  or  not,  (buds  that  lose  the  eye  in  stripping  arc 
good  for  nothing) ;  then  gently  having  raised  the 
hark  of  the  stock  where  the  cross  incision  was  made, 
with  the  flat  handle  of  the  knife  clear  off  the  wood, 
thrust  the  bud  therein,  placing  it  smooth  between  the 
rind  and  the  wood  of  the  stock,  cutting  off  any  part 
of  the  rind  belonging  to  the  bud  which  may  be  too 
long  for  the  slit  made  in  the  stock  ;  and  having  thus 
exactly  f  tied  the  bud  to  the  stock,  tie  them  closely 
round  with  bass  mat,  beginning  at  the  under  part  of 
the  slit,  and  proceed  to  the  top  ;  taking  care  not  to 
bind  round  the  eye  of  the  hud,  but  leave  it  open. 

In  three  or  four  weeks,  you  will  see  which  have 
taken.  The  shrivelled  and  black  are  dead.  The 
fresh  and  plump  are  joined  ;  at  which  time  loosen 
the  bandage,  that  the  stock  be  not  pinched. 

In  the  next  March  cut  off  the  stock  three  inches 
above  the  bud  ;  sloping  it  that  water  pass  off" :  to 
the  part  above  the  bud,  fasten  the  shoot  proceeding 
from  the  bud.  This  must  continue  but  one  year: 
then  cut  it  off"  close  above  the  bud. 

Time  of  innoculating  is  the  middle  oi  June  to  the 
middle  of  August.     The  time  may  be  ascertaineci  by 


(      109     ) 

trymg  li  the  buds  will  come  off  well  from  the  wood 
or  not. 

Apricots  are  the  first,  and  oranges  commonly  the 
last  sorts  innoculated.  Oranges  should  never  be 
iimoculated  before  the  middle  of  August.  Cloudy 
"weather  is  the  best :  rather  avoid  the  middle  of  the 
day  for  it.  Avoid  the  erroneous  practice  of  throw- 
ing cuttings  into  water. 

All  trees  of  the  same  genus,  which  agree  in  their 
flavor  and  fruit,  will  take  upon  each  other  under 
grafting  or  innoculation  :  All  the  nut-bearing  trees 
on  each  other,  and  all  the  plum-bearing  trees,  in- 
cluding almond,  peach,  nectarine,  apricot,  &:c. 

Success  of  experiments  on  Heading-down,  Composi- 
tion^ &fr. 

MR.  FORSYTH  says,  'that  since  he  published 
**  Observations  on  the  diseases,  defects  and  injuries 
in  Fruit  and  Forest  trees,*'  he  has  been  assidious 
in  making  experiments.  A  great  many  hollow  trees 
that  had  little  more  than  the  bark  remaining  sound, 
have  within  a  few  years  been  filled  up  : — Others 
that  were  headed  down  within  a  few  feet  of  tlie 


(    no    ) 

ground  have  their  stumps  now  completely  covered 
by  the  leading  shoot,  forming  handsome  trees  ;  and 
the  places  nvbcre  they  were  headed  a.re  only  discerned 
by  a  faint  cicatrix.  There  were  many  such  in- 
stances.    He  gives  but  few  accounts  of  them. 

A  lime-tree,  he  says,  18  inches  in  diameter, 
wh(ise  trunk  Avas  decayed  and  hollow  from  top  to 
bottom,  to  which,  after  cutting  out  the  decayed 
wood,  he  had  applied  the  composition  16  years  ago, 
■was  last  year  cut  down,  on  purpose  to  examine  the 
progress  it  had  made  in  the  interior  part,  and  A\'as 
found  entirely  filled  up  with  new,  sound  wood,  com- 
pletely incorporated  with  what  little  old  wood  re- 
mained when  he  first  took  it  in  hand.  The  body  of 
this  tree  he  keeps,  cut  into  short  lengths,  to  shew  to 
others. 

An  old  elm,  he  arlds,  the  inside  totally  decayed, 
and  two  large  cart  loads  6f  rotten  wood  taken  there- 
from at  diflferent  times,  has  made  shoots  upwards  of 
20  feet  higli  in  the  course  of  six  years.  Another 
elm,  headed  twenty  feet  from  the  gi'ound,  has  pro- 
duced  a  shoot  46  feet  high,  and  5  feet  9  inches  in 
circumference. — A  lime,  cut  down  near  the  ground, 
has  410W  a  shoot  20  feet  high,  which  entirely  covers 


(     lU     ) 

the  stnvci^^  forming  a  Jine  tree ^  21  inches  in  circum- 
ference.— A  sycamore,  treated  in  the  same  manner, 
is  now  30  feet  high,  and  26  inches  in  circumference. 
Another  is  30  feet  high,  and  2  feet  in  circumference. 
These,  he  says,  are  7io%vJifie  thvhing  trees,  and  the 
cicatrices  hardly  discernable  ! 

A  horse-chesnut,  headed  down,  has  produced, 
from  its  hollow  stump,  four  line  shoots,  one  where- 
of is  cut  down,  the  other  three  are  upwards  of  thirty 
feet  high  ;  and  one  of  them  is  26  inches  in  circum- 
ference. Two  of  the  remaining  three  are  to  be  cut 
down,  leaving  one  to  form  the  body  of  the  tree. 

About  two  and  a  half  feet  in  length,  on  one  side 
of  a  large  diseased  elm,  which  was  for  some  time  left 
to  nature,  still  continued  to  decay  till  the  composi- 
tion was  applied  :  new  wood  and  bark  are  now  form- 
ing. 

An  elm,  entirely  hollow,  was  also  headed  dowii. 
The  new  head  now  spreads  24  feet,  and  is  18  feet 
high.  Another  large  hollow  elm,  near  the  last,  was 
headed  down  :  it  afterwards  produced  a  shoot  60 
feet  high,  and  three  and  a  half  feet  in  diameter. 
There  are  many  other  elms,  some  with  wounds  10 


(     112     } 

■*- 
fcet  long  and  2  feet  broad,   now  entirely  filled  up  ; 

besides  many  sycamores,  oaks,  and  other  forest 
trees,  all  restored  to  a  flourishing  state,  by  hai)'mg 
the  dead  wood  cut  out ^  and  the  composition  applied. 
An  oak  that  was  headed  dow7i  six  years  ago,  is  re- 
presented in  pi.  XII. 

In  hollow  trees y  the  rotten  and  decayed  woo(\.  must 
be  cut  out  at  difi'erent  times,  as  the  new  wood  comes 
in  contact  with  it :  but  beware  not  to  cut  out  too 
much  at  once  ;  but  leave  enough  to  support  the  tree 
and  prevent  it  from  being  blown  down  by  high 
winds,  till  the  new  is  strong  enough  for  that  pur- 
pose :   the  remainder  may  then  be  cut  out. 

Mr.  Aberdeen,  gardener,  has  followed  Mr.  For- 
syth's  method  for  some  time  with  great  success,  in 
the  house  and  "  on  the  natural  wall.'''' 

Hearing  several  years  of  the  very  Jine  and  Lii'ge 
crops  produced  in  xho.  forcing  houses  on  Black  Heath, 
Mr.  Forsyth  took  a  journey  thither  in  company 
with  Mr.  WedgcAv^ood,  to  inquire  into  the  method 
pursued  there  for  obtaining  these  superior  crops, 
and  was  candidly  told  that  Mr.  Stuart  several  years 
ago  had  seen  Mr.  Forsyth'' s  method  used  at  Ken- 


(     113     ) 

sington  Gardens,  and  was  convinced  of  its  advan- 
tages above  the  old  ;  he  adopted  it  with  great 
success. 

John  Wedgewood,  Esq.  practises  in  Mr,  For- 
sytlfs  method  with  great  success. 

Lord  Frederick  Campbell  sent  to  Mr.  Forsyth  a 
list  of  85  fruit-trees  that  were  headed down^  and  af- 
terwards trained  and  primed  according  to  Mr.  F. — 
From  a  cankery,  unfruitful  state,  ever  green  with 
moss,  they  are  now  fruitful,  healthy  and  flourishing. 
— These  trees  are  now  proper  patterns  for  others 
desirous  of  giving  the  composition,  and  method  of 
training  and  pruning  recommended  by  this  treatise, 
a  fair  trial. 

Successful  trials  have  also  been  made,  oithe  same^ 
at  the  Duke  of  Dorset's. 


.*:' 


^ 


(    lu    ) 


THE  GOOD  EFFECTS 


MR.  FORSYTH'S  COMPOSITION,  IN  VARIOUS  CLIMATES. 

THE  Economical  Society  of  St.  Petersburgh  ex- 
presses great  satisfaction  with  the  effects  of  Mr. 
Forsyth*s  applications  of  the  composition^  &c.  and 
this  excellent  idea  of  a  Mr.  Guthrie  to  him,  appears 
well  worth  our  notice — "  That  he  is  happy  in  ex- 
pressing, individually,  his  satisfaction  from  Mr.  For- 
syth* s  sagacious  application  of  the  chiurgicalart  to  ve- 
getation ;  and  declares  that  the  extirpation  of  the  dis- 
eased parts  ^  and  the  use  of  an  unguent  to 'ujard  off  the 
noxious  actio7i  of  the  air  and  humidity^  during  the  ex- 
ertions of  nature  to  repair  loss  of  substance^  and  the 
languid  circulation  of  the  i)egetable  juices^  appear 
highl}''  judicious." 

In  the  hot  climate  of  IncHa^  and  the  opposite  ex- 
tteme  of  the  cold  of  Russia,  the  cojuposition  was  in 
constant  ajid  successful  use  ;  even  400  miles  south 
of  Madras  ;  and  also  in  the  India  company's  cinna- 
^  mon  plantation  :  and  it  was  likev/ise  applied  with 
equal  success  to  the  fruit-trees  of  the  country. 


(     115     ) 

Besides  these,  there  are  many  satisfactory  and 
wonderful  instances  of  hnproiiement  to  trees  and 
fmits  by  the  application  of  the  compositio7i. 


HEADING-DOWN. 

FOR  the  information  of  persons  who  are  but  lit- 
tle acquainted  with  practical  gardenings  Mr.  For- 
syth gives  the  following  explanation  of  what  is  call- 
ed Heading-do'wn  : 

\NhtT\  young  trees  2cc^  plaiited  out  from  the  nurse- 
ry as  soon  as  they  begin  to  break  in  the  spring,  they 
are  cut  down  to  three  or  four  eyes,  according  to  their 
strength,  to  furnish  them  with  bearing  ivood :  if  this 
^vere  not  done,  they  would  run  up  in  long  naked 
branches,  and  would  not  produce  one  quarter  of  the 
fruit  which  they  do  when  this  operation  is  properly 
performed.  The  same  holds  good  in  heading  all 
kinds  of  old  trees. 

An  opinion  prevails  (especially  amongst  app/e- 
tree  cidtivators)  that  trees  never  bear  \\ell  after  be- 
ing headed-down.  It  may  be  so  sometimes,  when 
trees  are  improperly  headed-dov\'n,  all  at  once,   by 


(     116     ) 

giving  a  siKlden  check  to  the  sap.  But,  if  headhig 
were  done  gradually  ;  that  is,  if  ei^ery  other  branch 
all  over  the  tree  were  headed  at  a  proper  length,  cut- 
thig  as  near  to  those  parts  where  the  shoots  appear, 
as  possible,  in  February  or  March^  or  even  as  late 
as  May,  in-  the  course  of  the  summer  they  would 
throw  out  fine  long  shoots.  These  should  not  be 
shortened  the  J/jst  year,  unless  it  be  a  few  to  Jill  2ip 
the  head  of  the  tree  with  bear'mg  wood;  and  that 
should  be  in  the  following  spring  ;  cutting  them  to 
six  or  eight  inches  in  length,  according  to  their 
strength.  In  the  next  spring  after  the  first  branches 
are  headed,  the  remaining  old  branches  maybe  cut 
out ;  and  these  will  soon/7/  the  head  of  the  tree  with 
fine  bearifig  wood.  In  three  years,  trees  so  headed 
will  produce  a  much  greater  quantity  ai  fruity  and 
of  better  quality  than  they  did  before  the  operation 
was  performed. 

Heading-down  Orange-trees. 
Just  as  Mr.  Forsyth's  manuscript  of  his  Treatise 
was  going  to  the  press,  he  was  informed  by  the  late 
Portuguese  Ambassador  at  London,  that  on  his  re- 
turn to  Portugal  he  had  found  the  Orange-trees  on 
the  Prince  of  Brasil's  plantations  in  a  very  unhealthy 
and  decayed  state ;  and  applied  tp  Mr.  Forsyth  for 


(     11-7     ) 

some  of  the  composition^  and  a  copy  of  his  pamphlet 
on  the  diseases,  &c.  in  fruit  and  forest  trees,  that  he 
might  make  trials  of  the  remedy  on  the  trees  of  that 
country.  Mr.  Forsyth  sent  him  a  ca'fek  of  the  com- 
position^ ^^'ith  directions  for  preparing  the  trees  and 
laying  it  on. 

He  advises,  that  when  it  is  found  necessar}'  to 
head-down  Orange-trees^  they  be  not  cut  quite  down 
to  the  stem  ;  but  to  leave  two  or  three  inches  of  the 
branches,  some  more,  some  less  ;  ahvays  remem- 
bering to  cut  near  to  a  joint y  and  in  such  a  manner 
as  X.oform  a  handsome  head;  and  to  apply  the  com- 
position immediately.  In  doing  this,  however,  he 
adds,  it  w  ill  be  necessary  to  leave  a  few  younc:  shoots 
to  draw  up  the  sap.  If  the  trees  ar^  infected  with 
insects,  the  stems  must  be  washed  with  soap-suds 
and  urine,  and  well  scrubbed  with  a  hard  brush. 

Mr.  Forsyth  informs  us,  he  always  leaves  three 
different  years  branches  on  apple-trees,  when  the 
first  shoot,  d,  is  cut  off  at  e,  (see  the  pi.  VI.  lig.  2.) 
It  is  to  be  observed,  the  next  shoot,  i",  will  be  full 
of  fruit-buds,  if  it  has  not  been  shortened;  Mhen  it 
begins  to  groiv  weak,  cut  it  oft'  at  g.  The  next  cut- 
tins;  must  be  at  i,   when  the  branch  h  is  tired  of 


(      118     ) 

bearing.  Proceed  thus  all  over  the  tree  Avith  care 
and  attention,  and  it  will  soon  be  perceived  the  ad- 
vantage of  this  method  of  pruning  above  the  com- 
mon mode  ;  for  by  it  the  trees  may  be  kept  in  a  con- 
stant state  of  bearing,  Mhich,  if  left  to  nature,  would 
only  produce  a  crop  of  fruit  once  in  two  or  three 
years.  Always  remember,  ■\\'hen  the  shoot  that  has 
done  bearing  is  cut  off,  to  apply  the  composition  im- 
mediatdy,  and  to  rub  off  the  shoots  where  they  are 
too  numerous. 

The  best  time,  he  says,  for  pruning  apple-trees  is 
April  or  May,  after  the  peaches,  nectarines  and 
cherries  are  pruned. 

r 
The  sviall  shoots  crossing  each  other  should  be 

cut  off";  leaving  the  strongest  to  fill  up  the  tree  and 

make  a  fine  handsome  head. 

The  apple-trees  chosen  frooi  the  nursery,  as  well 
as  the  apricot  and  peach-trees,   should  have  strongs 

straight,  and  clear  stems. 

Speaking,  as  it  seems,  rather  of  dwarf  trees  or 
trees  in  borders,  he  says,  the  same  directions  for 
heading  must  be  observed,  according  to  the  season 


(    no    ) 

and  the  time  of  the  buds  breaking  forth,  leaving  the 
number  according  to  the  strength  of  each  tree ;  cut- 
ting as  close  as  possible  to  the  top  biid^  that  the 
leading  shoot  may  more  easily  cover  the  wound ; 
and  constantly  observing-  to  rub  off  all  ihe  buds  that 
come  by  the  side  of  the  leading  shoot,  which  would 
otherwise  rob  it  of  its  nourishment  and  strength, 
and  so  present  it  from  making  a  fme  leader.  (See 
pi.  VI.  fig.  1.)  Remember,  he  says,  also  to  cut  it 
annually  to  the  length  of  from  nine  to  eighteen 
inches,  according  to  its  strength,  till  the  tree  has  got 
to  that  height  to  which  you  would  have  it  run,  and 
according  to  the  extent  of  the  ground  ;  w'hich  height 
may  be  from  eight  to  twehefett.  By  these  means, 
the  trees  will  throw  out  horizontal  braaches  on  eve- 
ry side,  and  soon  for ?n  ha7ickomc  heads  for  d^oarfs. 

He  advises  that  divarf  trees  be  not  suffered  to  ruH 
higher  than  twelve  feet.  From  eight  to  twelve  is  a 
convenient  height.  If  allowed  to  run  higher,  they 
wuU  become  naked  ai  bottom,  the  fruit  a\  ill  be  liable 
to  be  blown  down,  and  llje  tojis  broken  by  high 
winds. 


1:^0     ) 


A  GREAT  LESSON  IN  RAISING  OAKS,  ^c. 

According  to   Mr.    Forsyth : 

WHO  says,  it  is  a  generally  received  opinion, 
that  when  an  oak  loses  its  tap-root  in  transplanting, 
it  never  produces  another.  But  this  he  thus  refutes. 
He  transplanted  a  bed  of  oak-plants  into  a  fresh  bed, 
cutting  the  tap-roots  near  to  some  of  the  small  side 
roots  or  fibres  shooting  from  them.  In  the  secona 
year  after  y  he  headed  one  half  of  the  plants  dovjn^  and 
left  the  other  half  to  nature.  In  X\it  first  season,  those 
headed-doivji  made  shoots  six  feet  long,  and  com- 
pletely co^'c-red  the  tops  of  the  old  stems,  leaving 
only  a  faint  cicatrix ;  and  had  produced  new  tap-roots 
upwards  of  tv/o  and  a  half  feet  long.  One  of  these 
trees  he  left  at  the  Revenue -office  to  shew  the  advan- 
ta^c  of  trampl anting  and  heading-down  voun^  oaks, 
when  done  in  a  proper  manner ;  of  which  he  also 
gives  directions  for  Chcsnuts.     See  p.  70. 

By  this  method  of  treating  the  plants,  the  oaks, 
Skc.  will  grow  7nore  in  one  year  than  in  six  when 
treated  in  the  common  w  ay. 


(     121     ) 

The  otJier  half^  not  headed  doiun^  grow  not  one 
fourth  the  size  of  those  headed.  One  of  the 
headed-doivn  is  eighteen  feet  high  ;  and,  s  x  inches 
from  the  ground,  measures  j/^<few  inches  in  circum- 
ference :  at  three  feet  from  the  ground,  ten  inches  ; 
and  at  six  feet,  nine  and  a  half  inches:  when  one 
of  the  largest  of  those  not  headed-doivn^  measures 
oviVj  Jive  and  a  half  feet  high^  and  three  and  three 
quarters  inches-  in  circumference^  2X.six  inches  from 
the  ground.  This  is  a  convincing  proof  that  trans- 
planting and  heading' doiun  oaks  is  the  most  success- 
ful and  advantageous  way  of  treating  them  ;  and 
by  it  they  are  sooner  out  of  danger  from  cattle, 
as  well  as  from  vermin  so  frequently  injurious 
to  young  trees. 

Of  Oak-trees^  it  is  further  to  be  observed,  from 
Mr.  Forsyth's  Treatise^  that  where  they  had  re- 
ceived very  considerable  damage  from  various  ac- 
cidents, blows,  bruises,  cutting  deep  letters,  rub- 
bing off  the  bark  by  the  ends  of  rollers,  cart- 
wheels, and  m.utilated  branches  or  limbsf  a  per- 
fect cure  has  been  made,  and  sound  timber  pro- 
duced, through  his  applications. 


'#', 


NOTES 


FRUITS  AND  AMERICAN  GARDENING; 


DESIGNS  FOR  PROMOTING    THE  RIPENING  OP 

FRUITS,    AND    SECURING   THEM    AS 

FAMILY   COMFORTS: 

AND     FURTHEH, 

OF  ECONOMICAL  PRINCIPLES  IN  BUILDING 
FARMERS'   HABITATIONS,  ijfc. 


BY  AN  AMERICAN  FARMER. 


/ 


NOTES,    &c. 


A  FARMEa  is  not  made  by  books  ;  but  books 
may  assist  a  farmer,  in  giving  him  information  of  A 
successful  practices  by  other  farmers  in  other 
countries  or  places,  which  he  cannot  but  by  books 
know,  limited  in  his  inquiries  to  the  little  occur- 
rences of  his  neighbours.  Books  will  entertain  a 
farmer  with  conversations  on  the  practices  of  other 
farmers,  and  will  inform  him  how  far  such  prac- 
tices have  proved  successful  and  advantageous,  or 
how  far  they  failed— and  -why  they  failed.  One 
man  may  profit  of  the  failure  or  mistake  of  ano- 
ther, and  often  does — The  design  has  been  good 
and  promising,  and  the  cause  of  the  failure  may 
thereafter  be  avoided,  and  the  design  be  rendered 
successful. 

Mr.  Forsyth's  treatise  on  the  culture  and  ma- 
nagement of  trees,  fruits,  and  gardening,   ought 


(     126     ) 

to  be  well  attended  to  by  the  farmers  of  America^ 
as  it  contains  accounts  of  important  discoveries, 
interesting  to  country  families,  and  is  founded  on 
very  numerous  and  extensive  instances  of  suc- 
cessful practice. 

For  disclosing  the  fruits  of  his  experience,  Mr. 
Forsyth  received  from  his  government  Q^id^Q 
sterling  money.  The  world  also  receives  the 
•  benefit  of  his  communications,  especially  in  mak- 
ing and  applying  his  composition  ;  and  with  it 
much  other  useful  kno'.vledge  and  instruction  re- 
specting trees,  fruits  and  gardening,  the  price  of 
the  j^4000  ;  and  the  world  is  indebted  also  to  Mr. 
Forsyth  for  it. 

It  is  in  full  proof,  from  the  instances  of  his  ex- 
perience, and  the  efficacy  of  his  applications  and 
management,  that  all  fruit-bearing  trees  and  vines 
are  greatly  improved  in  their  properties  of  giving 
much  more  and  far  better  fruit  than  in  common 
practice  is  produced  :  the  difference,  on  comparing 
them,   is  astonishing ! 

Of  all  the  discoveries  made  public  by  Mr.  For- 
syth, the  heading-down^  training  and  pruning  in 


(      127     ) 

his  very  judicious  methods,  arc  the  most  import- 
ant and  satisfactory,  including  the  application  of 
his  composition^  luashes^  and  powder  !  Upon  these 
communications  Mr.  Ersytk  has  a  great  deal  to 
value  himself,  Look  to  the  neighbouring anhead- 
ed,  unpruned^  or  injudiciously  trained  fi'uit-trecs 
and  orchards — how  inferior,  scrubby  and  mean, 
the  trees  and  the  fruit ! 

Heading-down,  training  and  pruning  are  prac- 
tised by  many  people  in  their  own  son^e-how  way  ; 
which  together  may  be  denominated  the  common 
method  :  but  how  inferior,  and  how  void  of  proofs 
of  its  having  any  extraordinary  good  effect  !  Yet 
it  may  be  of  some  advantage,  generally,  more 
than  if  no  attempt  was  made  to  improve  the  trees 
and  fruit,  by  the  few  country  people  who  shew 
some  endeavour  to  improve.  So  by  chance  the 
editor  succeeded  in  heading-down  and  trimming 
a  number  of  peach-trees,  without  having  then 
beared  the  expression  oi  heading-down.  He  had 
been  told  it  wai>  advantageous  to  trim  and  thin 
young*  trees  when  planted  out.  I'hese  trees  grew 
and  produced  fruit  to  admiration.  But  what  is 
all  the  rn?uiom  pruning  in  ^merica^  compared  uith 
Mr.  Forsyth*s  now  well-known  method,  so  supe- 
rior to  all  ever  before  practised  ? 


(     128     ) 

In  general,  X\\q  American  air  and  climate  appear 
well  adapted  for  yielding  the  best  of  fruits^  as  well 
orchard  as  garden  kinds.  Strawberries^  currants 
and  raspberries  are  very  sure  and  perfect  crops. 
Gooseberries  are  not  such  certain  or  perfect  pro- 
ductions ;  unless  it  may  be  in  the  cooler,  more 
northern  parts  :  but  yet  they  answer  culinary  pur- 
poses, and  bottle  well.  This  is  with  scarcely  any 
attention  to  their  cultivation. 

Cherries  in  America  would  abound  and  be  in 
great  variety,  very  perfect,  if  some  attention  to 
them  was  observed  :  but  as  it  is  with  so  little  done 
for  them,  they  are  ;i  common,  and  rather  a  mean 
fruit.  The  sorts  preferred  in  country  places  seem 
to  be  the  thick,  tough,  indegestible  sorts,  which 
are  now  and  then  the  cause  of  sudden  death  in 
people  who  make  too  free  in  eating  them. 

Cherries  are  chiefly  applied  to  culinary  purposes y 
and  for  improving  brandy  into  what  is  called 
cherry  brandy  ;  which  is  a  considerable  article, 
much  noticed  in  lianiburgb,  in  Europe.  It  is  im- 
ported from  thence  into  some  places  in  America. 

Apricots  come  when  there  is  a  scarcity  of  other 
ripe  fruits;  which  makes  them  morp   desireable 


(     129     ) 

than  otherwise  they  would  be.  In  the  green 
state,  they  make  an  agreeable  tart.  In  ground 
dug  or  stirred  about  the  trees,  as  in  gardens,  they 
are  apt  to  drop  their  fruit  without  ripening  it. 

Peaches  arc  in  some  variety,  and  ripen  to  great 
perfection   in  the  middle  and  southern  states  ;   as 
with  but  a  little  attention  they  would  in  the  more 
northern  states  of  America.     It  is  a  fruit  that  is  so 
natural  to  the  country  of  these  states,    that  they 
are  applied  2Lsfoodto  hogs,  also  in  making  brandy, 
and  for  culinary  purposes.    They  are  in  succession, 
one  sort  coming  after  another,  from  ^uly  to  No- 
vember.    In  some  of  the  states,  kilns  are  erected 
for  drying  and  curing  apples,  pears,  peaches,  and 
other  fruits  in  great  quantities  ;    where  pics  are 
made  into  mountains  of  crust,  thick,  essential,  and 
cheap  ;  and  given  to  hirelings,  as  an  agreeable/oo^ 
for  all  labouring  people  in  the  country,    and  which 
needs  but  little  or  no  sugar.     The  dried  fruit  is 
packed  in  casks  for  family  use  ;   and  is  sometimes 
exported  as  merchandize.     They  are  generally  di- 
vided into  clear- stone  2.T\<\  clingstone  peaches .  The 
clingstone  soits  are,  in  France,  called  pavies.    In 
a  list  of  thirty-nine  choice  sorts  of  peaches,  given 
by   Mr.  Forsyth,   only  six  are  received  by  the 

s 


(     130     ) 

French  as  pavies  or  cling-stones  ;  and,  it  seems,  in 
France  and  England  the  clear-stone  sort  is  prefer- 
red at  their  tables. 

But  of  all  peaches,  perhaps  of  all  fruits,  there  is 
none  equal  in  flavor  to  the  American  Heath  Peachy 
a  cling-stone.  It  is  large,  weighingnear  a  pound 
in  common:  with  but  a  moderate  attention,  the 
editor  believes,  they  would  very  generally  weigh 
a  full  pound.  It  is  backward  in  ripening  north- 
ward of  the  Susquehanna  ;  and  is  one  of  the  last 
sort  that  ripens  ;  many  weigh  a  full  pound. — 
Peachley's  form  of  a  vinery  M'ould  perfect  the  ri- 
pening, and  secure  the  fruit  from  thieves. 

Within  the  states  of  America,  clear-stone 
peaches  are  preferred  for  food  to  hogs,  and  for 
making  brandy  ;  perhaps  also  to  be  eaten  in  coun- 
try families,  with  milk  ;  but  the  cling-stone  sorts 
are  preferred  wJien  of  a  good  sort,  well  ripened, 
to  be  eaten  as  fruit  undressed. 

It  is  a  common  fault,  after  having  planted  out 
2iX\  orchard  of  peach-trees,  to  leave  the  trees  to 
shift  for  themselves  and  travel  down  with  old 
time,  with  scarcely  any  culture  or  attention  ;  and 


(      131     ) 

the  trees  are  taken  from  the  nursery,  where  they 
had  become  full  grown,  crowded  anci  stunted,  so  a;s 
to  be  now  unfit  for  giving  good  fruit  when  trans- 
planted :  and  they  are  left  to  themselves,  ^v  itliout 
any  training  or  pruning ;  and  heading-down  is 
scarcely  thought  of,  if  known  u  in  consequence,  the 
fruit  they  yield  is  mean,  and  the  orchard  in  the  end 
is  given  up. 

Nectarines  scarcely  ever  ripen  in  the  parts  of 
America  where  the  editor  has  been.  An  insect 
punctures  the  green  fruit,  and  gum  flows  from  it, 
till  the  fruit  drops  without  ripening. 

Every  x\merican  farm  has  some  sort  of  an  apple 
orchard.  The  fruit  is  of  various  sorts  of  apples, 
and  formerly  gave  much  cider ;  and  store  apples 
abounded.  Now,  the  trees  and  entire  orchards  be- 
come daily  more  mean,  and  there  is  a  great  scarcity 
of  cider  ;  but  few  keeping-apples^  and  those  knotty, 
dry  and  insipid.  There  is  not  the  attention  to 
orchards  that  has  been.  West- India  spirit  and 
French  brandy  abound  in  the  shopi  ;  and  we  nxtear 
out  the  strength  of  our  lands  in  scujfling  for  corn,  of 
all  sorts,  to  be  sold  to  the  shopkeepers,  who  furnish 
us  very  readily  with  exotic  spirit  and  brandy.     Tlio 


(     132     ) 

orchard  is  no  longer  manured:  instead  of  it,  various 
corns — oats,  barley,  rye,  and  even  Indian  corn  and 
wheat  are  sown  and  reaped  in  the  orchard^  on  ground 
not  half  dressed  or  cultivated.  Moreover,  the 
orchards  are  now  left  open  to  powerful  storms,  to 
which  they  are  exposed  from  the  general  clearing 
of  the  country,  and  particularly  from  clearing  away 
the  neiahbourino;  woods  that  had  sheltered  the 
orchards.  Further,  pruning  and  training  fruit-trees 
are  less  understood  and  less  attempted  than  former- 
ly.— Mighty  rum,  and  mighty  brandy,  divert  better 
attentions. 

Pears  in  America  are  only  from  some  one  or  two 
trees  in  the  farmer's  apple  orchard  or  garden  ;  mere- 
ly for  the  fruit  eaten,  or  for  preserves  or  present  cu- 
linary purposes.     Perry  is  scarcely  known. 

A  few  quinces,  for  preserves,  are  in  a  corner  of 
the  American  apple-orchard  or  garden.  The  edi- 
tor had  a  row  of  dwarf  pear-trees  grafted  on  quince 
stocks.  They  M^ere  chiefly  the  small  round  sugar 
pear:  the  fruit  abundant  and  good.  The  trees 
about  four  or  five  feet  high. 


(     133     ) 

The  Fine  is  quite  natural  to  America.  This, 
,  with  the  plum  tribe,  the  editor  propagated  in  one  of 
the  middle  states.  There  howeA^er  is  very  little  at- 
tention observed  towards  the  plum  ;  though  they 
generally  thrive  well.  Damisons  are  preserved  for 
making  tarts. 

Little  attention  is  had  to  Nuts.  The  ivalnut  of 
"Europe,  and  the  Spanish  chesimt,  would  be  worth 
culdvatmg,  as  well  for  the  timber  as  the  nuts.  Al- 
though the  chesnut  is  bad  2isfucl^  yet  sta'ues  of  ches- 
nut,  for  \vine  casks,  are  equal,  if  not  superior  to  oak. 
In  Italy  it  is  much  used  for  wire  casks.  Tiic  chesnut 
is  also  excellent  house  timber  in  beams,  &:c.  The 
liquor  of  pickled  Avalnuts  is  greatly  used  in  sauces. 

Formerly,  the  early  settled  plantations  of  the  more 
wealthy  emigrants  from  England.,  abounded  in  large 
spreading  ivahnit-trees.,  of  the  European  kind.  In 
some  places  were  entire  rows  of  them.  At  this 
time,  scarcely  any  such  rows  of  walnut-trees,  indeed 
even  of  solitary  straggling  bearing  trees  are  to  be 
seen,  in  the  states  where  they  had  abounded.  There 
is  a  fashion  in  these  as  in  other  matters.  The  early 
wealthy  planters  from  England  introduced  walnut- 
trees  about  their  houses — their  descendants  have 


(     134     ) 

given  them  up.  Cubinet-niakers  have  rooted  and 
sawed  up  all  the  noble  blocks  of  curled  veiny  re- 
mains of  noble  walnut-trees — and  the  trees  are  not 
renewed.  It  is  no  longer  a  tree  noticed.  In  a  word, 
very  generally  yrwf/  is  shamefully  neglected  by  the 
American  fanners.  They  pla?it — and  they  neglect! 
Yet  we  sow  wheat — it  buys  us  rum,  brandy  and 
spirits,  at  the  expence  of  an  entire  impoverishment 
of  our  lands. 


OF  HABITATIONS  IN  THE  COUNTRY. 

IT  is  proper  that  they  be  adapted  to  the  emplo}-- 
mentsand  manner  of  living,  suitable  to  the  farmer's 
circumstances,  and  what  is  genuine  country  life.  It 
is  adviseable  not  to  copy  closely,  for  coimtry  lifcy 
from  the  fashions,  taste,  or  excesses  of  city  life  : 
there  must  be  a  discreet  difference  preserved. 

Whilst  it  is  a  fashion,  convenient  in  cities,  to 
finish  their  rooms  with  stampt  or  coloured  paper,  in 
the  country  this  practice  is  less  convenient  or  suita- 
ble. Workmen  in  the  country  are  every  where  to 
be  found,  who  can  whitewash  in  the  wholesome, 
neat,   old  way,  every  year,  or  fis  may  be  the  occa- 


(     135     ) 

sion  ;  when,  to  paper  the  country  rooms  as  often  as 
may  be  requisite,  though  scldomer  than  w/jite-ivasb- 
irigj  it  is  difficult  to  procure  ivorbne?i,  if  not  also 
sometimes  materials.  This  is  one  of  the  many  in- 
conveniences attending  the  introduction  of  city  ha- 
bits and  fashions  into  rural  life  ;  where  the  neat  and 
convenient  country  usage  of  frequently  ivbite-wasb- 
ing  and  renewing  the  rooms  and  chambers  is  experi- 
enced, and  has  been  always  approved  for  its  gi*eat 
mhantages  and  admired  neatness  and  ivholeso7neness. 

Giving  up  the  well  adapted  usage  of  %v bite -iv ash- 
ing country  mansions,  is  followed  by  many  disad- 
vantageous changes  in  country  economy,  house- 
keeping, practices  and  employments  ;  especially  by 
a  too  close  attention  to  and  observance  of  city  plea- 
sures. 

Some  particulars  may  be  introduced  into  the 
country  from  city  usages,  which  will  be  advantage- 
ous ;  but  the  danger  is  great  of  their  being  attended 
or  followed  with  depravities  or  inconveniences. 
There  are  not  many  that  prove  advantageous ;  and  it 
is  adviseable  that  plain,  yet  cheerful  country  life  do 
not  give  way  too  easily  to  city  trifiing,  or  things 
adapted  only  to  city  life,   if  adviseable  in  any  condi- 


(     136     ) 

tioii.  In  the  good  old  courses,  neatness,  cleanliness, 
and  modest  becoming  character  and  habits.  i<ave 
heretofore  been  admired  and  emulated  by  tiit  in! ha- 
bitants of  cities  ;  on  the  other  hand,  country  people 
too  closely  and  too  largely  followed  the  city  taste  ; 
which  ushered  them  into  city  extravaguiices  and 
follies. 

Amonf^  other  improprieties,  there  is  a  great,  ab- 
surd and  disadvantageous  introduction,  in  country 
houses,  qS.  plank  floors  on  joists,  and  a  giving  up  the 
more  natural,  "voholesome,  cheap,  solid  and  lasting 
earthen  and  brick  floors,  for  the  city  clioice  o^  wooden 
floors  over  an  unwholesome,  close, .  stag-nant  air. 

In  the  annexed  plate  is  designed  a  country  habita- 
tion, with  its  fu'st  or  basement  story  on  an  earth;jn 
or  brick  floor,  raised  only  six  or  eight  inches,  \\  ith 
earth,  on  the  common  level  of  the  ground.  Farmers 
in  Europe,  ^vorth  scores  of  thousands  of  pounds  in 
money,  have  houses,  ivhere  they  reside  on  their 
farms,  ^o  built  ^j\d  so  floored,  because  of  its  being 
suflicient,  proper,  v/holesome  and  convenient ;  and 
they  find  great  advantage  from  their  two  kitchens, 
one  of  them,  clean  as  a  parlour,  is  every  tiling  to 
the  STOod  house- uife  and  her  familv.     But  here  in 


(     137     ) 

jimerieay  how  common  has  it  become  for  our /ar- 
mers  to  imitate  city  modes  and  practices,  however 
unsuitable  to  the  peculiar  state  of  country  affairs. 
The  proud,  perhaps  really  poor  city  resident ^  how- 
ever he  bustles  in  the  banks  of  paper-means  of 
gamblings  builds  fine  houses,  indeed  house  upon 
house,  called  stories  ;  for  which  he  has  the  pretence. 
of  a  'iuant  of  ground  in  towns  ;  and  the  American 
dashing  imitative  farmer  builds  in  like  shewy  man- 
ner, although  he  is  not  stinted  in  ground  to  build 
on ;  he  must  have  his  Right  of  steps  to  pass  to  and 
from  his  house,  by  one  or  other  of  his  family,  a  hun- 
dred times  in  a  day — then  another  fiight  she^vs  the 
stranger,  visiting,  rooms  empty ^  if  not  unfinished, 
over  rooms  that  ought  to  be  under  domestic  employ- 
ments. 
> 
The  farmer's  house  (having  only  one  floor  or 
story)  has  no  cellar  under  it.  The  floor  of  it  is 
hrick.  For  vijiitors,  there  are  the  two  little  front 
parlours ;  of  which,  one  may  occasionally  have  a 
bed,  or  very  full  matrass.  A  middle  room,  12  by 
12,  is  the  lohby^  and  for  the  stair-case.  The  Xwo 
back  rooms,  18  by  18,  2irQ,  family  rooms.  Up  stairs 
iiTcf've  bed-rooms  and  a  landings  12  by  12.     A  ccL 

r 


(     138     ) 

lar  is  under  the  traveller's  detached  lodging  ;  which 
is  a  house,  16  by  16,  near  or  adjoining  the  mansion. 

The  farmer's  house  of  city  stories  on  stories, 
however  she\\T  or  not,  outside,  has  less  area^  and 
less  of  cowvenience,  though  much  more  ijjall,  than 
the  humble  house  of  one  floor  or  story.  Its  two 
•rooms,  20  by  20,  and  a  passage  20  by  10,  are  all 
that  are  in  the  first  story,  below.  Above,  in  the 
second  story,  are  rooms  too  inconvenient  to  be  of 
much  use  :  they  are  two  bed  chambers  and  a  landing 
of  the  stairs  :  in  the  roof  arc  four  bed-chambers ^  14 
by  12  1-2,  and  a  landing. 

The  editor  has  been  well  entertained  in  a  house 
which  had  but  one  floor  (no  upstairs),  divided  into 
five  rooms,  18  feet  square  ;  the  middle  of  them  was 
the  summer  room  and  the  lobby  ;  another  was  a  \^in- 
ter  and  dining  room,  "  parlour  and  all"  ;  the  three 
others  were  bed<- chambers,  having  fire-places,  and 
very  completely  furnished.  The  two  first  occupiers 
of  it  \^ere  great  tobacco  planters  and  merchants, 
owning  shipping  :  two  others  were  mere  planters. 
It  was  a  house  of  great  entertainment — and  yet  it 
had  but  the  one  floor — not  a  room  upstairs — no  up- 
stairs— and  but  one  fifth  of  its  area  was  cellar.  A 
fched  room  had  been  added  for  a  nwrsery. 


(     139     ) 

In  comparing'  the  walls  of  the  farmer's  two  above 
houses,  those  of  the  modern,  or  with  two  stories, 
are  more  than  twice,  or  twice  twenty-seven  times 
more  in  quantity  and  expence  than  the  single  story 
house  ;  and  moreover,  the  single  story  house  has 
more  oi  employed  rooms  and  con'veniences  than  the 
fi\rmer*a  modern  country  house  of  two  stories ! 


OF  GARDENS  IN  AMERICA. 

IS  it  presumption  to  say,  that  the  bouses  on  a 
farm,  entitled  to  immediate  attention,  and  that 
next  to  the  mansion  ought  to  be  built,  are  what 
will  shelter  the  farmer's  beasts  of  the  place  ?  and 
that  the  farm-yard  is  of  more  consideration  than 
the  garden  ;  though  this  is  of  great  value  to  ev«ry 
family,  especially  to  the  farmer'' s. 

Country  gardens,  in  America,  are  usually  close 
to  themansion  ;  and  the  farm-yard,  when  the  farmer 
has  any,  is  a  considerable  distance  from  the  man- 
sion ;  perhaps  partially  to  be  seen  from  it.  It  may 
even  be  said,  that  the  garden  is  but  of  a  secondary 
consideration  to  the  farm-yard,  and  ought  to  give 
way  to  it.     Then,  as  it  is  elsewhere  said,   it  is  ad- 


I 


(     140     ) 

vantageous  to  have  Xht.  farm-yard,  and  all  the  work 
and  employment  in  it,  within  view  from  the  man- 
sion, as  a  check  on  the  idleness  and  miscondirct  of 
labourers  and  herdsmen.  The  garden  may  be  in  the 
front,  or  on  one  of  the  sides  of  the  dwelling  house 
or  of  the  farm-yard,  as  conveniently  placed  as  cir- 
cumstances will  allow,  not  to  be,  especially,  too 
near. 

A  garden  laid  out  in  long  beds,  admits  of  being 
advantageously  ploughed,  \\\\\\  a  light  plough  drawn 
by  a  siiigle  horse,  ass  or  mule.  Mr.  Parkinson,  an 
English  faimer  of  judgment  and  experience,  lately 
in  Ann'rica^  in  conversations,  gave  satisfactory  ac- 
counts of  the  exccllence«of  cultivating  gardens  with 
light  singlL-horse  ploughs  ;  and  he  approved  of  an 
ass,  as  being  s'eady,  sober  and  small,  with  which 
he  ploughed  his  garden  crops.  If  the  garden  is 
ploughed  througli  its  whole  length,  parallel  with  the 
middle  great  walk,  it  can,  after  being  \a  ell  dressed, 
have  cross  paths  trod  out,  or  otherwise  as  conveni- 
ency  demands. 

Besides  cultivating  the  garden  sort  of  white 
peas  in  long  garden  beds  as  above,  the  editor 
is  beholding,  he  thinks,  to  Mr.  Parkinson  for  the 


(     141     ) 

thought  of  tending  those  peas  In  ficld-hushamlry  ; 
first  dressing  and  preparing  the  field  in  fine  condi- 
tion, then  so^ving  broad-cast ;  when  the  pea  vines 
soon  \\  ill  cover  the  gi'ound  and  smother  many  weeds. 
If  in  this  case  there  should  be  but  a  partial  crop  of 
peas,  though  a  full  crop  may  be  expected,  yet  the 
product  in  the  straw,  or  haulm  and  grain,  together 
would  be  very  valuable  to  the  farmer  v  ho  shall  know 
how  to  spend  such  acquisitions  amongst  cattle  and 
sheep. 

A  country  garden  divides  well,  in  the  objects  of 
its  productions,  into  articles  to  be  prepared  in  cook- 
ery yor  the  table ^  mXo pot-herbs  and  medicinal  herbs. 
These  may  be  in  separate  pieces  of  ground.  Tae 
pot-herbs^  parsly,  tliime,  &c.  are  frequently  wanted 
in  haste  ;  they  may  be  nearest  to  the  kitchen,  &c. 
and  let  them  abound.  In  saving  seeds,  lay  out  for  ten 
times  as  much  as  it  is  thought  will  be  wanted  :  many 
accidents,  from  storms,  insects,  seasons,  &:c.  hap- 
pen. Whatever  may  be  above  the  wants  of  the 
garden,  it  will  be  a  pleasure  to  supply  neighbours 
with ;  and  for  ever  there  is  a  certainty  of  a  sufficiency 
at  home.  Till  the  editor  pursued  this  principle  of 
economy  respecting  seeds  ixwdfruitSj  he  seldom  had 


(     142     ) 

enough  of  either — and  such  are  sore  wants.  In- 
deed, respecting  fruits  he  Avoukl  not  be  limited  in 
quantity.  Wants  are  due  to  careless,  random,  half- 
spiritcd  attentions,  or  where  there  is  no  care  at  all. 

The  garden  fruit-trees  (dis-tinct  from  orchard  or 
straj^gling  trees)  may  range  along  the  interior  or 
middle  walks,  and  generally  at  some  distance  from 
the  garden  fence.  The  quantity  designed  to  be 
many  times  more  than  the  family  ma}'  be  supposed 
to  want.  Divide  the  placing  fruit-trees  distinctly 
as  out-fruit,  for  servants  and  others  close  at  home, 
and  even.  Some  ai'ticles,  precious  family  comforts, 
it  is  recommended  to  securely  inclose  in  a  'c'lnery  or 
the  like  cheap  building,  under  lock  and  key  ;  \^  hich 
will  scarcely  require  any  expence  of  fuel.  Here 
grapes  may  run  up  the  rafters  in  serpentine  order, 
whilst  diva rf  trees  of  iht  beath  peach,  he.  and  also 
fgSy  may  be  in  the  beds.  Of  fgs,  obser\'e  Mr. 
Forsyth's  excellent  instructions  in  the  pruning  and 
cultivating  them  :  no  where  arc  any  equal  to  them, 
in  print. 

If  a  full-grown  pr  a:h-lree,  in  America,  will  ripen 
400pea:hc^,  two  such  will  give  800  f^Riily   com- 


(      143     ) 

forts*  Is  it  not  worth  the  expence  to  secure  such 
perlect  fruit,  if  it  were  only  for  the  sick  of  a  family? 
In  the  season  of  peaches  and  grapes  ripening,  inter- 
mittents  arrive  ;  and  how  excellent,  says  the  good 
and  knowing  Tissot,  is  sou?id  ripe  fruit  to  the  sick  ; 
as  indeed  those  who  have  had  them  in  their  sickness 
cannot  but  feelinrly  remember  and  vouch. 

There  can  be  little  occasion  for  sheltering  the 
heath  peach  from  autumnal  cold  any  where  south  of 
the  Susquehanna.  •  Yet  the^^f^-,  a  fine  wholesome 
fruit,  though  not  an  American  favourite,   is  highly 


*  A  gentleman  in  England^  lately,  grew  within 
frames^  14  feet  long  and  12  feet  broad,  the  frames 
having  three  slides  of  glass,  five  peach-trees.  At  eight 
years  old  they  ripened  261,  201,  220,  151,  152  peaches, 
in  all  985.  In  t/ii?imng,  there  had  been  taken  off  2020, 
which,  added  to  the  ripened  9S5,  amount  together  to 
3005.  Medium,  600  a  tree,  failures  included  ;  from 
which,  off  one  third,  would  give  to  American  peach- 
trees  400  a  tree,  in  ripened  fruit  in  the  field.  Then 
one  tree  in  the  back  corners  of  two  pcachcries-,  would 
give  of  the  noble  heath  peach  1600;  besides  graphs 
along  the  rafters.  A  vinery  in  England  is  usually  40 
or  50  feet  long,  9  feet  wide,  3  feet  high  in  front,  12  to 
14  back  :  but  the  width  in  America  may  be  12  feet,  the 
height  in  front  3  or  4  feet,  and  back,  on  the  north 
wdl,   12  or  13  feet. 


(     144     ) 

esteemed  in  countries  where  it  ripens,  and  is  every 
v/here  deemed  ivholesome  and  delicious  when  eaten 
ripe  from  the  tree.  The  editor  knows  that  at  first 
his  neighbours  in  America  who  disliked  their  flavor, 
soon.  VI' ere  fond  of  them,  and  tiiey  are  in  truth  a 
wholes Diue  and  a  valuable  fruit,  as  in  his  Maryland 
garden  was  often  attested  from  experience. 

The  shelters,  in  nature  of  vineries,  may  be  made 
good  use  of  in  America,  for  forwarding  (not  forcing 
them  out  of  season)  cucumbers^  melons^  Lima  beans, 
peppers,  &c. — sprouting  the  seeds  in  the  vinery, 
and  even  letting  the  plants  grow  a  while  ;  then  move 
and  plant  them  out  in  the  garden  beds  or  hills.  First 
in  the  vinery,  grow  the  seeds  in  little  unglazed 
two-cent  pots,  or  in  paper,  or  ^villow  fuoigs,  or  straw y 
make- shift  temporary  Uttle  baskets  ;  which  are  to 
be  removed,  pot  and  earth,  and  seeds  or  plants, 
without  breaking  their  earth  much,  and  all  buried 
where  to  remain.  Early  radishes  and  sallads  may 
also  be  here  promoted. 

The  farmer  cannot  find  it  worth  while  to  force 
fruits  and  plants  out  of  season  by  the  use  of  expen- 
siy tjires  and  attentions  ;  but  to  promote  their  time- 
ly ripeiiing,  and  securing  choice  fruits  under  lock 


(     145     ) 

and  key  by  affluent  farmers  would  be  profitable, 
and  of  great  comfort  to  sick  people^  for  whom  they 
may  have  some  thought. 

Green-houses  and  hot-houses  the  husbandman 
had  better  avoid,  as  being  expensive  ;  and  are  too 
far  used  in  preternaturally  ripeni?ig  plants  and 
fruits :  but  to  his  consideration  is  referred  the 
eheap  vinery  or  inclosure,  for  the  purpose  of  se- 
curing some  choice  grapes  andyf^/,  and  a  little  ri- 
pening some  rather  backward  grapes,  and  perfect- 
ing the  fig-trees  for  next  year's  bearing — as  also 
may.  be  ripened  tender  peaches,  plums,  and  other 
subjects  of  family  comfort,  under  lock  and  key, 
with  very  little  or  nofire  ;  but  for  some  purposes 
with  a  portion  of  glass  in  sliding  frames.  Of 
which,  see  the  plate. 

The  editor  may  have  been  too  reserved  in  not 
speaking  of  some  advantageous  occurrences  re- 
specting his  own  gardening  and  management  of 
fruit  :  but  he  will  venture  to  relate  an  instance  or 
two. 

In  some  gardens  in  America,  greengages  scarce- 
ly yielded  any  fruit,  or  but  badly  :  it  was  the  case 

u 


(     146     ) 

of  the  gages  in  the  editor's  garden,  till  by  grafting 
five  green  gages  on  five  damison  stocks,  and  at 
the  same  time,  of  the  same  grafts,  one  was  graft- 
ed in  the  stock  of  a  Chickasaw  plum ^  growing  near 
the  damison  stocks  :  in  four  or  five  years  of  the 
grafted  trees  bearing,  the  five  damison  grafted 
gages  scarcely  yielded  a  tenth  of  the  fruit  which 
the  one  Chickasaw  plum  grafted  tree  gave.  In- 
deed, it  was  wonderful  and  curious  to  observe 
how  like  ropes  of  onions  the  gages  grew  along  the 
twigs  and  small  limbs  of  the  Chickasaw  grafted 
tree ;  and  another  Chickasaw  plum-stock,  fifty 
yards  from  the  other,  was  grafted  with  one  of  the 
same  green  gage  cuttings  as  before,  the  year  after 
the  others  were  grafted,  and  bore  fruit  equally 
surprizingly  as  the  former.  It  seems,  then,  that 
Chickasaw  plu7n-stocks  are  excellent  for  grafting 
green  gages  on  them.  The  Chickasaw  plum  is 
by  some  called  mountain  cherry.  It  is  in  nothing  a 
cherry,  but  is  red,  and  of  the  size  of  a  cherry  \ 
and  in  many  particulars  is  like  the  common  wild 
plum  of  the  sea-coast. 

In  many  parts  of  the  country  almond-trees  gave 
no  fruit.  The  tree,  though  hardy,  was  planted 
in  the  warmest  parts  of  gardens  ;  where  in  spring 


(     147     ) 

the  blossom  was  the  first  out,  of  all  trees;  and  then 
the  fruit  was  destroyed  by  subsequent  frosts.  The 
editor  chose  the  coldest,  most  airy,  exposed  and 
clayey  part  of  his  garden,  where  he  planted  al- 
monds. The  trees  bore  the  fruit  to  perfection  in 
three  years  after  planting  the  nuts — the  large  soft- 
shelled  almond. 

His  strawberry  vines  were  dressed  every  sum- 
mer^ after  the  fruit  was  gone  ;  the  runners  shorten- 
ed^ the  ground  stirred  and  cleaned  from  weeds,  and 
a  moderate  portion  of  mild  cow-dung  added,  best 
from  the  compost;  and  every  third  year  t/ie  plmits 
renewed  into  fresh  beds,  the  old  ones  left  to  give 
fruit  as  long  as  they  proved  worth  attention.  The 
improvement  of  the  strawberries  was  great,  in 
quantity  and  quality  of  the  fruit.  Respecting 
raspberries  and  the  other  garden  fruits,  consult 
and  attend  to  Mr.  Forsyth* s  treatment  of  them — 
how  different  they  are  in  size,  Sec.  when  managed 
according  to  his  book,  the  purport  whereof  is  con- 
tained in  the  above  Epftomc  ;  and  the  method  of 
culture  was  partly  experienced  by  the  editor. 

The  editor  but  little  regarded  the  breaking  down 
his  peach-trees^  or  their  destruction  by  WQrnis — for 


(     148     ) 

he  aimed  not  at  "  enough,"  but  very  many  times 
more  than  enough  ;  whilst  persons  aiming  at  their 
enough^  for  ever  wanted — as  often  as  storms, 
worms,  insects,  or  other  accidents  happened  to  a 
tree.  When  two  or  three  of  the  editor's  trees 
were  blown  down,  or  the  fruit  of  so  many  was  de- 
stroyed, still  there  was  of  fruit  more  than 
enough  ;  and  in  every  autumn  he  planted  peach 
stones,  regula;  ly  as  peas  are  in  the  spring  by  other 
people.  They  were  in  some  numbers,  partly  in 
borders  where  they  might  remain — others  were 
transplanted,  some  even  after  shewing  tlicir  fruit. 
Many  were  grubbed  up.  He  preferred  Baker's 
clear-stone  July  peaches,  the  Neiuingtons,  and  a 
few  others  ;  especially  the  latest  and  best,  the 
large  heath  peach,  ripe  from  October  to  Novem- 
ber.— He  was  for  ever  planting  peach  stones  and 
found  not  grubs,  storms,  <^c.  affecting  them,  to 
his  detriment. 


OF  PLATE  XIV.  yc. 

IN  the  plate  zre  plans  and  elevations  of  two  me- 
thods of  building  fa^?7Jers'  clwelli?ig- houses^  drawn 
on  the  same  scale,  30  feet  in  an  inch. 


(      149     ) 

Of  the  two,  the  modern  house  has  4200  feet  of 
tuall:  the  o/<f/ ;;/o<^<?  complcats  a  house  more  cori- 
venient  and  oi  tnore  room^  with  but  1850  feet  of 
luall  ;  less  than  half  the  quantity  of  wall! 

A  small  out-house  of  one  room  would  be,  for 
cither  house,  very  convenient  for  strangers  to 
lodge  in  :  and  to  have  under  it  a  cellar  sufficient 
for  a  farmer's  family.  In  the  loft  over  the  bed- 
roo77i  of  this  out  house  may  be  straw  matrasses  for 
travelling  poor  people  or  servants  to  lodge  on: — 
What  an  accumulation  of  advantages  arc  here, 
cheaply  concentrated  !  Strangers  cannot  be  al- 
ways refused  lodging;  and  it  is  not  always  with 
perfect  safety  that  they  are  taken  into  the  family 
house  to  lodge. 

It  may  be  best  that  there  is  no  direct  commu- 
nication open  between  the  mansion  and  the  small 
lodging-house.  On  the  same  side  of  the  mansion, 
may  be  other  convenient  houses:  milk-house^  Scz. 
On  the  opposite  side  of  the  dwelling  may  be  a 
passage  to  the  out  kitchen  with  closets  y  poultry  yard 
and  shelter^  Sec.  Over  the  passage  and  closets 
and  out-kitchen  may  be  lodgings  for  the  family 
servants^  to  go  up  to  by  a  ladaer  or  stairs  from 


(     150     ) 

the  passage.  It  is  proper  and  necessary,  especial- 
ly in  country  houses,  that  accommodations,  mostly 
or  all  together,  be  on  the  ground-floor »  A  fre- 
quent use  of  the  rooms  upstairs  will  naturally  be 
avoided,  as  they  arc  extremely  inconvenient,  but 
for  bed-rooms.  In  towns  a  scarcity  of  ground 
obliges,  a  sore  necessity,  the  building  up  house 
tipni  ho  lis  e^  story  upon  story. 

A  clean  small  yard  or  two  of  close  turf  is  highly 
useful  to  the  country  house-wife.  The  garden  is 
more  in  sight  and  more  likely  to  be  attended  to 
when  in  front  of  the  dwelling,  but  at  a  proper  dis- 
tance :  and  the  road  to  the  house  is  better  to  be 
somewhat  round-about  on  one  side  of  the  garden  : 
than  to  liave  it  a  directly  straight,  dead  view  to 
the  eye  at  the  house. 

The  small  rooms  in  the  old  plan  may  be  par. 
lours  ;  occasionally  with  a  bed  or  matrass  in  one, 
easily  removed,  in  the  country  way.  The  lobby 
has  its  uses,  besides  admitting  the  stair-case. 

The  fiTzt  floors  are  of.  brick  or  cement  in  the  old- 
mode,  upon  the  ground,  raised  six  or  eight  inches 
with  earth.  The  ly^// ought  to  be  let  three  feet 
deep  in  the  ground,  against  severe  frosts. 


(     151     ) 

Let  nothing  induce  the  having  a  cock-loft  in  ei- 
ther of  the  houses.  They  are  dangerous  recepti- 
cles  of  combustibles^  and  are  often  set  fire  to  by 
carelessness.  They  ought  to  be  so  close  that 
scarcely  a  cat  can  enter  them.  It  will  suffice 
that,  after  narrowing  the  area  of  the  i^ppermcst 
floor  in  the  old  method^  because  of  the  interference 
of  the  roof,  there  will  remain  an  area  of  36  feet  by 
24,  to  divide  into  six  ?~ooms^  twelve  feet  squjaeo 
The  garret  floor,  in  the  71610  method^  v.  ill  divide 
into  four  rooms  of  14  by  12  1-4  f.et,  of  no  very 
great  demand  in  a  country  house,  elevated  as  it 
would  be. 

Wind  can  make  but  little  impression  on  the/o7/'- 
built  house  ;  but  what  a  powerful  lever  the  hi^ih 
house  would  prove  to  be  in  storms  I  In  sweeping 
the  chimnies  and  extinguishing  fires,  the  prefer- 
ence is  in  favor  of  the  low  house.  See  mere  of 
mansions,  p.  134. 

The  vinery  may  be  only  one,  as  is  common, 
though  some  have  two  to  advantage.  The  size 
for  the  above  purposes  in  America  may  be  40  feet 
long,  12  broad,  12 or  13  high  at  the  back  wall,  3 
or  4  at   the  front  or  south    wall.      The  rafters 


(     152     ) 

have  sliding  sashes,  set  with  glass.  This  section  is 
drawn  by  a  scale  of  seven  feet  per  inch. 

Such  a  house  would  ripen  and  secure  heath 
peaches  in  cold  districts  :  the  trees  whereof  might 
be  dwarfs.  Fig-trees  would  perfect  their  fruity 
and  harden  their  late  grown  ruood.  Also  Lima 
beans ^  cucumbers^  7nelor/s,  peppers.  Sec.  may  here 
be  aided  in  perfccti7ig  their  ripenmg  ;  but  not  be 
forced  pretcr naturally. 

In  England,  the  flue  is  in  the  hack  wall  ;  which 
can  give  plants  only  oiic  side  of  its  heat,  very  slow- 
ly and  duly  moderate  ;  when  the  flue  in  the  middle 
of  the  floor  ^  as  here,  gives  three  sides^  or  three 
fourths  of  its  heat.  On  the  top  of  this  stove  may 
be  a  bed  of  good  rich  earth,  and  small  seeds  sown 
in  it ;  or  if  seeds  be  sown  in  small  pots  ^  they  might 
be  early  sprouted^  and  when  frost  is  gone  the  pots 
and  plants  in  them  be  disposed  of  in  the  garden  ; 
as  Lima  beans ^  peppers^  Sec.  Some  seeds  need 
only  be  sprouted  in  the  vinery,  and  then  sown  at 
large. 

The  gable-end  of  a  viner)^,  or  rather  a  section 
of  it,  is  given  in  pi.  XIV.   in  which  is  seen  a  view 


(     153     ) 

of  the  width  of  the  beds,  paths,  flue,  Sec.     It  is 
drawn  on  a  scale  of  se'-oen  feet  to  an  inch.     Further, 

1.  Beds  raised  a  foot  or  so  :   width  shewn,  three 
and  a  half  feet. 

2.  Width  of  the  paths,  eighteen  inches. 

3.  The  flue,  nearly  long  as  the  vinery ;  only  leav- 
ing room  to  pass  by  the  fire-place,  from  path  to  path. 

4.  Lower  division  of  the  glass  frames. 

5.  Upper  division  of  the  same. 

6.  Covered  with  boards  or  shingles. 

7.  North  wall  of  the  garden  and  vinery. 

jj^  8.  Grape  vines,  planted  outside ;   and  enter  the 

vinery  about  two  feet  up  the  front  or  south  wall. 
This  wall  m^y  be  chiefly  glazed. 

The  contents  of  this  XI  Vth  plate  are  respectful- 
ly submitted  to  the  consideration  (d'i\h^  farmers  of 
America.     They  will  determine  ^vhich  of  the  two 

V 


(     154     ) 

mansions^  or  the  principles  on  which  they  are  de- 
signed, is  to  be  preferred  by  Ytd\  farmers  ;  and  will 
consider  of  American  gardens  and  fruits.  Some 
general  remarks  are  dispersed  on  these  subjects  ; 
and  the  American  farmer  entreated  to  consult  Mr. 
Forsyth's  treatise,  very  frequently  :  it  containing 
the  most  valuable  information  that  ever  was  made 
public  oji  trees  and  fruits! 

The  editor  also  recommends  to  landholders  who 
may  be  desirous  of  propagating  plantations  of  tim- 
ber trees^  that  they  consult  the  third  volume  of  An- 
dcrsorJs  essays  on  agriculture.  He  especially  is 
important  in  w-hat  he  writes  of  the  larch-tree^  of 
Europe  ;  a  tree  so  superior,  in  its  uses,  to  all  other 
trees,  that  the  universal  preference  given  to  it  by 
ancient  nations  has  occasioned  the  extirpation  of  it 
in  all  accessible  places  of  countries  where  it  former- 
ly w  as  to  be  had  ;  and  where  at  this  time  little  is  to 
be  found  but  w  hat  gro\\'s  in  inaccessible,  mountain- 
ous places  ;  saving  in  Russia,  a  new  country,  where 
they  still  obtain  of  it  for  building  ships  of  war  at 
Archangel.  American  larch  difters  from  this  pi^ius 
lurix  lin. 


(     155     ) 

Of  late,  millions  of  larch  plants  are  annually  rais- 
ed, for  sale,  \n  Scotland  ;  and  many  trees  are  in  gen- 
tlemens'  grounds,  grown  to  a  full  size,  having  been 
raised  before  this  moment  of  the  value  of  the  wood 
being  largely  known.  Of  saving  seeds,  sowing 
them,  and  cultivating  the  trees,  Mr.  Anderson  is 
full,  pleasing,  instructive,  and  satisfactory ! 


OF  THE  USEFULNESS  OF  BIRDS, 


DESTROYING  INSECTS  AND  VERMIN  COMMONLY  INJU> 
RIOUS  TO  THE  HUSBANDMAN  AND  GARDENERS. 

DR.  BARTON'S  fragments  of  the  natural  histo- 
ry of  Pennsylvania,  points,  with  much  justice  and 
ingenuity,  to  the  conduct  of  various  birds,  although 
of  ill  fame,  from  the  early  prejudices  of  youth, 
against  appearances,  rather  than  any  actual  facts. 

Insects  and  ^-ermin  are  food  to  the  immense  bird 
tribe  :  to  which  these  insects  are  in  due  proportion 
to  the  essential  wants  of  birds,  as  again  numerous 
minuter  beings  arc,  with  other  aids  of  nature,  to 
those,  &c.  All  nature  depends  on  its  own  laws  for 
the  support  of  its  various  subjects. 


(     156     ) 

The  attention  of  European  ^vTiters  to  the  common 
well-known  fact,  observed  especially  in  the  rural 
retreats  of  contemplative  men,  of  animals  preyiag 
on  animals  for  their  food,  is  very  commendable. 
And  often  it  has  been  observed,  that  whilst  the 
woodpecker,  for  an  instance,  is  busily  engaged  on 
the  growing  corn  in  digging  with  his  beak  and 
probing  with  his  barbed  tongue  for  the  worm  or  in- 
sect which  is  equally  active  in  destroying  that  corn 
for  his  own  food,  the  hasty,  inconsiderate  spectator 
is  outraged  with  the  apprehension  that  the  bird  is  a 
destroyer  of  the  corn,  when  he  actually  is  in  the 
state  of  defending  the  corn  for  himself  and  the  hus- 
bandman against  the  depredations  of  the  insects. 

The  black  bird  and  the  crow  are  the  t^vo  most 
desperate  destroyers  of  the  maiz  corn  ;  on  planting 
the  grains  in  the  crossings,  they  follow  and  take  up 
the  corn  v/hen  it  is  even  growing  through  the 
ground  :  but  when  the  maiz  is  ripe,  then  it  is  that 
the  crows  seem  to  form  their  batallions,  and  pounce 
upon  a  whole  field  at  a  time,  eating  and  destro}'ing 
together  entire  fields ;  as  in  one  year  they  served  a 
field  of  the  editor  :  and  so  in  armies  they  fly  over  the 
the  country,  till  they  choose  a  field  to  attack,  and 
seemingly  with  a  mighty  command,   one  and  all  at 


(     157     ) 

once  scream  aloud,  and  dash  upon  the  selected 
corn-field,  missing  but  few  ears  that  are  left  un- 
fathered by  the  farmers. 

Pidgeons,  as  well  wild  as  domestic,  are  charged 
with  being  great  destroyers  of  grain.  They  do  in- 
deed eat  much  of  the  husbandman's  seed  corn,  yet 
not  so  as  to  materially  injure  crops.  They  feed 
mostly  on  wild  seeds  of  sour  grasses,  weeds,  &c. 
Bat  the  farmer  himself  is  extremely  indiscreet  in 
common,  by  suffering  old  breeds  of  tame  pidgeons 
extending  their  colonies  too  largely  and  overrun  all 
lasvs  of  economy. 

Poultry  also  eat  much  of  the  farm  corn  ;  but  the 
farmer  eats  both  the  poultry  and  the  pidgeons,  the 
rabbits,  &c. — all  to  his  satisfaction  and  support. 
Yet  even  the  house-fly  is  not  grudged  his  share  of 
the  most  exquisite  pine-apple  che-ese — nor  the  pu- 
rest, most  excellent  Madeira  wine. 

"  Busy,   curious,  thirsty  fly, 

"  Drink  with  me,  and  drink  as  I ; 

"  Freely  welcome  to  my  cup, 

"  Could'st  thou  sip — and  sip  it  up  [ " 

The  grudgings,  indeed,  of  certain  seliish  people, 
would  withhold  food  from  animals  that  in  tlieuiselves 


(     158     ) 

gratify  the  luxury  of  the  condcmner.  Others,  more 
reasonable  and  thouglitful,  kno\v,  and  are  willing  to 
admit  that  all  animal  life  preys  for  its  subsist- 
ance,  and  lawfully  preys,  on  other  beings  and  sub- 
jects, according  to  the  laws  of  nature  :  the  applica- 
tion whereof,  as  such,  answers  other  v^  ise  purposes. 
The  fish,  the  bird,  the  quadruped,  all  share  in  the 
life  of  their  own  kind — Yet  not  so  of  man  ;  to 
whom,  and  some  other  animals,  they  are  unnatural 
as  food  to  their  own  species,  and  so  are  withheld 
and  forbidden. 

The  sweet,  cheerful  mocking  birds  are  said  to  be 
enemies  to  us  in  eatins;  our  cherries  and  small  fruit. 
Very  little  of  these  I  am  sure  they  consume.  In 
paying  some  attention  to  them,  it  has  been  remark- 
ed that  they  are  very  ])artieularly  fond  of  spiders  :  if 
this  be  their  principal  food,  together  with  other  in- 
sects and  worms,  the  epicure  may  not  grudge  him 
his  food  ;  and  even  of  the  red-breast,  so  much  more 
numerous,  he  robs  the  fruiter  in  proportion  to  their 
extensive  numbers.  They  are  indeed  somewhat 
vexatious  in  the  partiality  they  shew  for  the  garden 
grape-vine,  where  they  much  abouad,  perhaps  as 
much  for  the  spilers,  bugs  and  worms,  if  not 
more  than  for  the  grapes.     But  poor  things  they 


(      159     ) 

must  live,  and  we  must  not  grudge  a  share  of  our 
labour  for  their  support ;  and  from  \\  hence  we  ac- 
quire pleasing  gaiety  in  tlie  morning  in  the  trees  di- 
rectly at  our  ^\  indow  s  ;  and  then  let  us  give  them 
praise  for  their  destruction  of  enemies,  among  Vv  orms 
and  bugs,  to  our  garden  and  field  crops.  Of  ail 
birds  about  a  house,  the  most  vexatious  are  the  wa- 
ter martin  ;  which  had  better  be  called  the  bee  bird, 
as  it  is  for  ever  snapping  up  these  industrious  ani- 
mals, full  loaden  as  they  are  returning  to  their 
hives.     There  is  no  such  other  enemy  to  bees. 

But  Dr.  Barton  has  given  so  excellent  an  ac- 
count of  the  habits  and  actions  of  bn^ds  in  his  frag- 
ments of  the  natural  history  of  Pennsylvania,  that  a 
preference  is  due  to  it,  for  our  present  purposes  ; 
and  it  is  referred  to  as  the  most  satisfactory  respect- 
ing our  present  enquiries,  as  we  have  it  in  a  Eu- 
ropean late  publication  as  follows  : 

"  It  may  in  the  first  place  be  observed"  says  Dr.- 
Barton,  *'  that  insects  appear  to  be  the  first  food  of 
almost  all  the  birds  of  our  country.  The  more  I 
have  enquired,  the  more  I  have  been  con\Incecl,  that 
almost  all  birds  live,  in  some  measure,  upon  in- 
sects.    Even  tliose  species  \\  hicli  consume  consi- 


(      160     ) 

dcrable  quantities  of  seeds,  berries  and  fruit,  also 
eonsume  large  quantities  of  insects. 

"  The  greater  number  of  our  smaller  birds  of  the 
order  of  passeres,  seem  to  demand  our  attention 
and  protection.  Some  of  them  feed  pretty  entn-ely 
upon  insects,  and  others  upon  mixed  food — that  is, 
insects  and  seeds.  Many  contribute  to  our  plea- 
sure by  the  melody  of  their  notes.  I  believe  the  in- 
jury they  do  us  is  but  small,  compared  to  the  good 
they  render  us. 

"  The  muscicapa  acadica  of  Gmelin,  is  called  in 
Pennsylvania  the  lesser  or  wooJ-pew  e.  This  iittle 
bird  builds  in  Avoods  and  in  forests.  After  the 
young  have  left  the  nests,  the  parents  conduct  them 
to  the  gardens  and  habitations  of  men.  Here  the 
brood  dwells  in  trees  near  the  houses,  where  they 
are  fed  by  the  old  birds  with  the  common  house-fly 
and  other  insects.  The"young  ones  are  soon  capa- 
ble of  obtaining  their  food  in  the  same  way.  This 
species  of  muscicapa  visits  us  in  the  spring,  and 
commonly  continues  with  us  till  late  in  September, 
when  it  retires  southerly  to  winter. 


(     161     ) 

"  The  blue  bird  feeds  principally,  if  not  entirelyj^ 
upon  insects,  both  such  as  are  flying  and  such  as 
are  reptile. 

"  Most  of  our  species  of  wood-pecker,  appear 
very  useful  in  destroying  insects,  particularly 
those  which  injure  forest  and  orchard  trees" — 
and  such  as  infest  and  injure  the  corns  whilst  grow- 
ing, especially  the  maiz  or  Indian  corn.  "It  is 
true,  these  birds  are  sometimes  injurious  to  us,  by 
eating  some  fine  fruits ;  and  therefore  pains  arc 
taken  to  drive  them  from  cherry-trees  and  Indian 
corn. — But,  withal,  they  devour  great  numbers  of 
injurious  insects. 

"  As  a  devourer  of  pernicious  insects,  one  of  the 
most  useful  birds  is  the  house-wren.  This  lit- 
tle bird  seems  peculiarly  fond  of  the  society  of 
man.  From  observing  the  usefulness  of  this  bird 
in  destroying  insects,  it  has  long  been  a  custom 
in  many  parts  of  the  country  to  fix  a  small  box 
at  the  end  of  a  pole,  about  houses,  for  it  to  build 
in.  When  the  young  are  hatched,  the  parent 
birds  feed  them  with  insects.  It  is  a  curious 
fact,  lliat  a  friend  counted  the  number  of  times  a 
pair  of  wrens  came  from  their  box  and  returned  uitk 

X 


(     162     ) 

insects.     He  found  it  was  performed  from  40  to  60 
times  in  an  hour  ;  and  in  a  particular  hour  they  car- 
ried food  71  times.     They  Mere   engaged  in  this 
business  the  greater  part  of  the  da}'.  Taking  the  me- 
dium at  50  times  iii  an  hour  (in  the  whole  12  hours) 
a  slnf^le  pair  of  these  birds  took  from  the  cabbage, 
saliail,  l;t;aiis,  peas,  and  other  vegetables  in  the  gar- 
den, iiix  hundred  insects  per  day.*'     This  is  sup- 
1- w^ing  the  old  birds  carried  but  one  insect  at  a  time, 
bfi':  i.iie  editor  nas  seen  tiiem  take  and  carry  to  the 
nest  two  at  a  .nne,  and  even,  lie  believes,   three. — 
1  or  preserving  lobacco  plants  irom  worms  and  in- 
sect, at  timcb,  ana  on  particular  occasions,  a  whole 
plan iUtion  of  negroes,    men,   women  and  children, 
aiid  then  again  large  fiocks  of  turkies  go  through 
10,  20,  to  40  acres  of  plants,  plant  by   plant,   and 
take  from  them  daily  destructive  worms  and  in- 
sects, and  render  that  service  at  a  great  expence, 
•    which   the  wrens,  wood-peckers,  and  other   ^\ild 
bn-ds  perform  vit  no  expence,  unless  the  unreasona- 
ble   husbandman   would   charge  them  heavily  for 
sometimes  partaking  of  the  fruits  of  their  labour. 
"  Thus  the  esculent  plants  of  a  whole  garden  may 
perha))s  be  preserved  from  tlie  dej^redations  of  dif- 
ferent species  of  insects  by  10  or  15  pair  of  these 
s'.nail  l)irds;  and  morco\er,  thcv  are  a  verv a2:reeabie 
conipaniontoman,  for  their  notes  are  pleasing. 


(     163     ) 

*'  Perhaps  our  storks,  cranes  and  herons  are  as 
serviceable,  if  not  more  so  to  us,  as  the  ibis 
were  in  devouring  the  reptiles  oi'  Egypt.  In  Hol- 
land at  this  time  the  storks  go  w  ild,  protected  by  the 
government,  from  a  sense  of  their  usefulness  in  the 
above  respect. 

"  In  Britain,  the  heron  and  other  birds  of  the  tribe 
protect  the  country  against  an  excessive  increase  of 
fi-ogs,  toads,  and  other  reptiles.  North-America 
abounds  with  birds  of  this  order. 

"  The  vulture  is  useful  in  sweetening  the  air,  by 
devouring  all  carrion  ;  and  in  Virginia  the  turkey- 
buzzard,  vultur  aura^  is  one  of  the  most  useful  birds 
of  this  kind;   and  is  there  protected  by  a  law." 


EXPLA^NATIONS 


01   THB 


ENGRAVINGS, 


(     167    ) 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  L 

m. 

Fig.  1. . 
Represents  an  old  apricot-tree,  after  the  last 
pruning  in  summer,  in  the  fourth  year  after  heading 
down.  The  lower  part  of  the  trunk  is  represented  as 
covered  with  a  rough  bark,  which  must  be  pared  off 
when  it  happens  to  be  cankery. 

fl,  a,  a,  a.  The  cicatrices  of  the  four  different 
years'  heading,  which  should  be  periormed  at  the  time 
of  the  winter  or  spring  pruning. 

3,  by  b.  Forked  shoots  which  are  laid  in,  in  sum- 
mer, and  cut  off  at  b  in  the  winter  pruning,  that  the 
leading  shoots  may  be  always  left  without  forks. 

As  the  small  shoots  c,  c,  c,  from  the  stem,  advance, 
the  larger  forked  shoots  should  be  cut  out,  as  at  d^  d^  d^ 
to  make  room  for  them  to  be  trained  horizontally. 

F'w.  2. 

o 

Is  an  old  branch  of  an  apricot  trained  up  accord- 
ing to  the  old  method,  leaving  above  three-fourths  of 
the  wall  naked.  Such  branches  should  be  cut  down  as 
near  to  the  place  where  the  tree  was  first  budded  as 
possible,  as  at  f,  on  purpose  to  fill  the  wall  with  fine 
ncM'  wood. 


(     168     ) 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  IL 

m 

Fig,  1. 
An  old  hollow  Green  Gage  Plum-Tree  the  second 
jrcar  after  heading  down.  This  tree  was  very  much 
decayed,  having  only  a  few  inches  of  sound  bark  ;  naany 
of  the  roots,  being  also  rotten  and  decayed,  were  cut 
off,  and  an  incision  made  at  a,  which  produced  a  fresh 
r«ot. 

b.     The  first  heading,  close  to  a  bud. 

r,  c.     The  new  wood  and  bark  growing  over  the 
hollow  partf/,  which  is  covered  with  the  composition. 

e,  e,  8fc.     Where  the  second  year's  heading  wa» 
performed. 

y,  f.     Where  the  fore-right  shoots  are  cut  off  dur- 
ing the  winter  or  spring  pruning. 

cf'  S:->  <§■>  ^^'     The  fruit  buds  for  next  year,  as  they 
appear  after  the  fore-right  shoots  arc  cut  off,  as  at^,/. 

P/0-.   2. 
A  branch  on  a  larger  scalf ,  to  shew  the  manner  of 
cutting  those  forp-right  shoots   which  are  full  of  fruit 


(     169     ) 

buds.     This  should  be  done  at  /z,  A,    but  not  till   the 
fruit  is  set ;  they  afterwards  forni  into  dugs  as  /,  /. 

Fig.  3. 
An  old  branch  pruned  in  the  common  way,  cover- 
ed over  with  canker,   and  producing  only  small  weak 
shoots,  leaving  the  wall  mostly  naked. 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  IIL 

Fig.  1. 
An  old  hollow  peach-tree,  after  the  last  nailiag  in 
summer,  which  had  been  headed  down  at  a,  four  years 
ago.  The  hollow  is  covered  over  with  the  composition, 
and  now  nearly  filled  up.  The  heading  must  always 
be  done  as  near  to  a  bud  as  possible. 

^,  ^,  ^c.  Where  the  forked  branches  are  to  be 
cut,  when  the  small  shoots  c,  c,  £s?c.  are  far  enough  ad- 
vanced, that  these  may  be  trained  horizontally. 

When  a  sKoot  has  single  fruit-buds  to  the  top,  as 
at  d^  it  must  not  be  shortened,  but  laid  in  at  full  length; 
or,  if  not  wanted,  it  must  be  cut  clean  out.  See  the 
4tG.  edition,  p.  53. 

Fig.  2. 
A  branch  on  a  larger  scale. 
V 


(     170     ) 

e,  c.  Are  double  flower-buds,  with  wood-buds 
between  them  :  The  shoots  should  always  be  tut  at 
such  ;  but  never  at  a  single  flower-bud,  as  at^;  ocher- 
wise  the  shoot  would  die  to  the  next  wood-bud  ;  and,  if 
the  pruning  were  done  in  a  careless  manner,  would  en- 
danr_  r  the  whole  shoot.  Those  above y^,  are  all  wood- 
buds.     See  4to.  edition,  p.  32,  33,  34. 

Fig.  3. 
A  branch  of  an  old  pearh-tree  pruned  in  the  com- 
mon way,  which  should  be  cut  at  g^  und  the  young  wood 
will  soon  cover  the  wall. 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  IV. 

Fig.  1. 
An  old  cherry-tree  headed  clown  at  c.    Before  this 
its  branches  were  covered  with  the  gum  and  canker,  as 
Fig.  2. 

The  fore-right  shoots  should  be  tucked  in,  as  di- 
rected for  pears  ;  and  at  the  fall  of  the  leaf,  or  in  the 
month  of  February,  they  should  be  cut  at  a  :  These 
form  the  fruit-buds  b.  b,  £s?c.  all  over  the  tree. 

c,  c,  bfc.  The  cicatrices  where  the  leading  shoot 
was  headed  indifferent  seasons. 


(     171     ) 

<-/,  d.  The  composition  applied  where  large  limbs 
were  cut  off. 

Fig:  2. 
A  branch  of  this  tree  before  it  was  headed  down. 

e,  e,  ^c.  Branches  injudiciously  pruned  in  sum- 
mer ;  which  brings  on  the  death  of  the  shoot,  and  af- 
terwards ihe  gum  and  canker  on  the  tree. 

y,  fy  £s?f.  The  gum  and  canker  in  the  last  stage, 
which  corrodes  the  whole  tree  if  not  carefully  extir- 
pated. 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  V. 

An  old  cherry-tree,  restored  from  two  or  three 
inches  of  live  bark,  taken  from  the  wall,  and  planted 
out  as  a  dwarf  standard :   Now  very  fruitful. 

«,  a.     The  cicatrices  where  it  was  headed  down] 
the  first  and  second  time. 

b.  The  hollow  covered  with  the  composition,  and 
now  nearly  filled  up  with  sound  wood. 


(     172     ) 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  VL 

/■/§•.  1. 
An  old  cankery  apple-tree  headed  down  four  years 
ago,  now  bearing  great  plenty  of  fine  fruit. 

a.     Where  it  was  first  headed  down. 

b  and  c.  Two  wounds  covered  with  the  composi 
tion,  and  now  nearly  filled  up  with  sound  wood. 

The  part  of  the  trunk  below  a  shews  the  cankery 
state  of  the  bark  ;  w^hich  rough  cankery  bark  must  al- 
ways be  pared  off,  otherwise  it  will  infect  the  new, 

F^-g.   2. 
A  branch  shewing  the  method  of  keeping  a  regu- 
lar succession  of  bearing  wood. 

d.  A  branch,  which  has  done  bearing,  to  be  cut 
at  e,  and  which  is  succeeded  by  the  branchy";  when 
that  also  is  tired  of  bearing,  it  is  to  be  cut  at^,  and  will 
be  succeeded  by  the  branch  /i ;  and  when  that  also  is 
worn  out,  it  is  to  be  cut  off  at  /.  By  proceeding  in  this 
manner,  you  will  always  be  able  to  keep  a  regular  suc- 
cession of  fine  bearing  wood. 


(     173     ) 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  VIL 

This  plate  represents  an  okl  decayed  pear-tree, 
with  four  stems,  which  was  headed  down,  all  but  the 
branch  6*,  and  the  young  wood  trained  in  the  common 
way,  or  fan-fashion. 

A,  A,  A.  Young  wood  producing  the  fine  large 
fruit  B. 

C.  An  old  branch  pruned  in  the  common  wav, 
having  large  spurs  standing  out  a  foot  or  eightetn 
inches,  and  producing  the  diminutive,  kernelly,  and  ill- 
flavoured  fruit  Z),  not  fit  to  be  eaten. 

The  two  pears  B  and  D^  represented  in  the  plate  of 
their  natural  size,  grew  on  the  tree  at  the  same  time. 

a,  a,  a,  £?*c.  Wounds  in  the  stems  of  the  tree, 
with  the  composition  applied,  as  they  appeared  when 
the  edges  of  the  bark  began  to  grow  over  them. 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  VIIL 

Fig.  1. 
An  old  decayed  Beurre  pear-tree  headed  down  at 
fy  and  restored  from  one  inch  and  a  half  of  live  bark. 


(     174     ) 
<i,  a,  a,  ^c.     The  fruit-buds  for  the  present  year. 
^,  ^,  b,  ^c.     Those  forming  for  next  year. 

c,  r,  £s?c.  The  footstalks  of  the  fruit  of  last  year, 
on  which  are  forming  buds  for  bearing  in  the  second 
year. 

d^  d^  £s?c.  The  fore-right  shoots  as  they  appear 
before  they  are  cut  off  at  c,  in  the  autumn  or  spring 
pruning. 

d.  The  manner  of  tucking  in  the  fore-right 
branches. 

y,  y,  Wc.  Cicatrices  of  the  different  headings, 
which  cause  the  leading  shoot  to  produce  horizontal 
shoots. 

i 

g^  g.  Large  wounds,  having  the  composition  ap- 
plied, healing  up. 

Fig.  2. 
An  old  branch  of  the  same  tree  before  it  was  head- 
ed down,  trained  and  pruned  in  the  old  way,  with 
spurs  standing  out  a  foot,  or  a  foot  and  a  half,  trom  the 
wall;  and  the  rough  bark,  infested  with  a  destructive 
insect,  which  is  described  and  a  method  of  cure  given. 
See  Plate  IX.  Fig.  3. 


(     175     ) 

EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  IX. 

Fig.  1. 
An  old  Bcrgamot  Pear  headed  down  at  the  cica- 
trix <2,  taken  irom  the  wall  and  planted  out  as  a  dwarf 
standard. 

6.  A  wound,  covered  with  the  romposit'or!,,  where 
a  large  upright  shoot  was  cut  off,  to  give  the  leading 
shoot  freedom  to  grow  straight. 

Ft-g.  2. 
The  different  appearances  of  the  insect  so  destruc- 
tive to  pear-trees. 

This  insect  is  inclosed  in  a  case,  and,  when  fixed 
on  the  leaf  on  which  it  feeds,  appears  as  represented  at 
fl,  a,  a,  which  is  about  its  natural  size. 

b.  The  case  magnified. 

c.  The  case,  with  the  Insect  in  motion,  magnified 

d.  The  Insect  magnified, 
e.. The  Moth. 

J'.  The  Chrysalis. 


(     176     ) 

ff.  The  Chrysalis  magnified. 

Fig.  3. 
The  coccus  which  infests  peach,  nectarine,    and 

peai- trees. 

a,  a,  a.    The  insect,  the  natural  size,  on  a  branch 
©1  a  pear-tree. 

•     b,  h^  b.    The  same  magnifictl. 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  X. 

a,  a,  «,  ^c.  The  young  bearing  wood  of  a  vine 
trained  in  a  serpentine  manner,  with  the  buds  for  the 
present  year  appearing..  These  shoots  are  generally 
cut  out  in  the  winter  pruning,  as  low  as  c,  c,  r,  ^c.  to 
produce  wood  for  next  year. 

The  shoots  b^  b^  ^c.  produce  fruit  in  the  usual 
manner,  also  young  wood  for  the  following  year,  which 
must  not  be  topped,  but  only  have  the  side  shoots  pick- 
ed o(F.  Two  or  three  of  the  strongest  young  shoots 
from  each  of  those  b,  by  ^c,  will  be  sufficient,  and  they 
must  he  laid  in  at  full  length. 


(     177     ) 

EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  XL 

Fig,  1. 
Grafting    in    the    rind,    shoulder-grafting,    or 
«rown-grafting. 

a.  The  stock  grafted. 

b.  The  manner  of  raising  the  bark  to  receive  the 
€ion  or  graft. 

£.     The  graft  prepared  for  inserting. 

Fig.  2. 
Cleft-grafting,  stock-grafting,  or  slit-grafting. 

d.  The  stock  grafted. 

e.  The  stock  prepared  for  receiving  the  ^raft. 
y.     The  cion  ready  for  inserting. 

d,  d,  d.     Different  views  of  i,ncisions  made  for  the 
purpose  of  obtaining  young  wood. 

e.  A  }  oung  shoot  coming  out  at  the  lower  part  of 
the  incision. 


(     178     ) 

Fig.  3. 
Whip-grafting,  or  tongue-grafting, 

0-.     The  stock  jrrafted. 

h.     The  stock  prepai-ed. 

/ 
/.     The  graft  prepared  for  inserting. 

Fig.  4. 
Inoculating  or  b-udding. 

^.     The  manner  of  making  the  incision  intlie  bark. 

/.     Trie  bud  inserted,  and  the  bark  hud  over  it. 

m.  A  shoot  shewing  the  manner  of  cutting  off  the 
buds. 

7t.  A  vessel  Avith  a  little  loam,  covered  with  wet 
moss,  so  *tick  the  lower  end  of  the  shoot  in,  to  keep  it 
moist  till  used. 

0.     A  bud  taken  off  and  rcadv  for  iuscrlinc 


F/g.  5  and  6. 
Inarching,  or  grafiiug  by  approach. 

p.     firaftir^g  on  a  stock  in  a  pot. 


(     179     ) 

q.  Grafting  on  a  stock  growing  near  the  tree 
from  which  it  is  to  be  grafted  on. 

r,  s.     I'he  shoot  and  stock  prepared. 

?,  t.  Two  branches  inarched  where  the  natural 
ones  had  failed,  now  properly  united  wkh  the  body  of 
the  tree  ;  the  lower  parts  being  cut  oiF. 

«,  II.  Tw'O  branches  lately  inarched  for  the  same 
purpose,  and  when  properly  united  with  the  stem,  are 
to  be  cut  off  at  w,  u^  ti,  ii. 

w,  X.  The  manner  of  preparing  the  stock  and 
graft. 

V.  A  natural  shoot  coming  out  where  the  branch 
was  inarched  the  preceding  vear. 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  XIL 

This  plate  represents  an  old  stunted  oak,  which 
was  headed  down  about  six  years  ago.  At  that  time 
it  war,  full  of  wounds  and  blemishes,  now  nearly  healed. 

a.  The  place  where  the  tree  was  headed,  after- 
wards covered  with  the  composition. 


(     180     ) 

^,  i,  b.  Three  young  shoots  produced  fine  head- 
ing ;  there  were  several  others,  which  were  cut  down 
as  they  advanced  in  growth  ;  the  two  remaining  side 
ones  are  also  to  be  cut  down  and  only  the  middle  one 
left,  which  will  in  time  cover  the  wound  a,  and  form  a 
proper  tree. 

c,  c,  c.  Remains  of  the  old  wounds,  covered  with 
the  composition,  and  now  almost  healed  up. 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  XIIL 

Fig.  1  y  2. 

Two  different  views  of  a  tool  for  cutting  out  the 
dead  and  decayed  parts  of  hollow  trees.  It  has  two 
wooden  handles  which  ma/  be  of  any  convenient 
length. 

Fig.  3  h''  4. 
Two  views  of  another  tool,  with  one  handle,   for 
cutting  out  dead  wood.     This  is  made  narrower  than 
the  former,  and  is  to  be  used  in  places  where  Fig.  1  can- 
not be  admitted. 

5.  A  triangular  chisel,  for  cutting  grooves  or  chan- 
nels to  carry  off  the  water  from  the  holloMS  of  the 
trees. 


(     181     ) 

6.  A  tool  representing  an  adze  on  one  side  and  a 
Katchet  on  the  other. 


7.     A  large  chisel. 


8.  A  large  gouge. 

9.  A  small  saw,  with  double  teeth,  thin  on  the 
back,  for  cutting  off  small  branches,  S-:c. 

10.  A  knife  with  a  concave  edge. 

11.  A  tool  inform  of  a  sickle,  without  teeth.  This 
is  to  scrape  stems  and  branches  of  trees  on  the  side 
next  the  wall. 

12.  A  pruning-knife  with  a  convex  edge. 

13.  A  tool  in  shape  of  a  curry-comb  for  scraping 
moss,  Sec.  off  the  stems  and  branches  of  trees:  One  of 
the  scrapers  has  teeth  ;  the  other  is  plain.  The  biick 
of  this  tool,  and  the  edges  of  the  scrapers,  arc  a  little 
concave. 


6 
lar2:e  branches. 


14.  A  larger  double- toothed   saw   for  cutting  oF 
:  branches. 

15.  A  small  pruning-l<nife  v.ith  a  convex  edge. 


(      18:2     ) 

1 6.  A  large  chisel  with  a  strong  plate  of  iron  screw- 
ed on  upon  the  face  of  it,  like  a  double  iron  for  a  plane, 
to  prevent  its  running  in  too  far  where  the  tree  is  cross- 
grained. 

JV^.  B.  These  tools  have  handles  of  different  lengths, 
to  be  used  as  occasion  requires. 


EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  XIV. 

Fig.  1. 
F-'iRTiERs'  houses  of  residence  are  of  various  sizes 
and  forms,  suitable  to  the  degree  and  circumstances  of 
the  occupier. — Fig  1  is  the  most  hu.Vxble  of  farmers' 
hiibitntions,  on  the  smallest  farms  ;  and  is  an  excellent 
ti  :sign  for  a  cottage.  1  he  floor  is  best  of  brick  or  ce- 
iv.v'!,  or  er.rth  perfectly  solid.     'l"he  size  IGby  12  feet. 

<7,  a.     Dotted  lines,  fiirwing  the  width  of  area  up- 
stairs, 8  b}-  16:  to  form  two  roouiS  of  8  feet  square. 

Fig.  2. 
This  is  a  comfortable  house  for  a  farmer's  family 
in  coramon  ;  and  very  convenient,  without  ostentation. 
— It  admits  of  an  entry  by  one  or  two  steps — Its  busi- 
ness is  all  done  on  the  one  ground  floor :  tlie  rooms 
over  head  being  solely  ns  bed-chambers  and  store- 
rcoms  of  family  goodi;. — It  admits  of  enlargement  on 


(     183     ) 

the  ground,  as  may  be  for  future  occasions — Its  chim- 
nies  are  easily  swept — Its  single  story  gives  littic  to 
the  p^'wer  ot  storms — A  fire  is  easily  conquered,  beiug 
more  within  reach  than  when  it  breaks  out  on  two-story 
houses,  iijio  this  most  common  farmer's  hibitii'iioa, 
you  enter  a  lobby  12  by  12  feet ;  the  stairs  to  bed- 
chambers and  store-rooms,  over  it.  On  each  hand  of 
the  lobby  is  a  room  also  12  by  12  feet,  with  a  smull 
collier  chimnev.  The  two  back  rooms,  which  are  18 
by  IS  feet,  ZiXit  family  rooms  oi  employment :  they  look 
back  into  the  farm-yard.  A  door  may  be  on  the  east 
and  west  sides.  Best  that  there  be  little  or  no  cellar 
under  this  hV.iitation.  If  any  cellar,  let  it  be  under 
one  of  the  12  feet  rooms  ;  but  still  better  to  be  under  a 

small  out-house  for  a  poor  trjtveller's   bed-roo-m. 

N.  B.  The  two  dotted  lines  shew  where  the  sides  of 
the  chambers  upstairs  will  extend  to.  When  divided 
off,  there  will,  for  chambers  and  stores  or  closets,  be 
six  rooms  of  12  feet  square. — The  Avhole  of  the  ground 
floor  may  be  laid  ao//^  with  brick  or  cement  ;  and  this 
coloured  or  not  at  pleasure  :  but  the  solid  floor  is  the 
healthful fioor  1  ever  and  ever.  Even  the  upper  floor 
would  be  well  laid  with  stout  sawed  laths,  and  then 
laid  thick  with  a  cement ;  which  would  prote6l  against 
fire,     d,  d.   Doors. 

Tig.   3. 
This  is  taken  from  a  house  lately  built  in  the  state 
of  Main  by  an  English  family ;   having  only  a  ground 


(     184     ) 

story,  the  floors  of  brick  and  earth.  The}'  are  built  or 
the  principles  of  farm  houses  in  ihe  experienced  old 
coantries  ;  having  never  more  than  one  story,  with 
brick  or  cement  floors,  solid,  that  no  stagnant,  un- 
vholesome  air  be  admitted  under  them  ;  except  a  very 
small  portion  of  cellar  under  the  stairs,  for  containing 
family  small' beer,  lard,  &c.  Bed-rooms,  and  closets 
or  store-rooms  may  be  over  head,  in  the  garret  or  se- 
cond floor,  as  in  No.  2. 

Fig.  4. 
This  and  Fig.  3  were  built  nearly  together  by  re- 
lations by  marriage,  and  there  need  not  be  sought  a 
more  convenient  and  comfortable  house  than  either  of 
them,  suitable  to  farmers  of  property.  Upstairs,  as 
No.  3. 

Fig.  3.  Enter  a  passage  10  by  25  feet  to  a.  a  store- 
room :  b.  a  closet  :  c.  childrens'  bed-room  :  d.  bed- 
room of  master  and  mistress  :  e.  closet  :  f.  parlour, 
15  by  22  feet :  g.  friends'  bed-room,  15  by  19  :  h.  h.  h. 
closets  :  i.  kitchen,  with  cellar  and  chamber  stairs  :  k. 
door  into  shed,  27  by  13,  with  fire-place  and  copper:  a 
pump  and  .  sink  ;  door  both  ways  : — Fig.  4.  1.  entry 
with  closets  for  books,  &c.  on  each  side,  8  1-2  by  25  : 
m.  north  parlour,  a  beau-room,  22  by  18  1-2  :  n.  bovs' 
bed-chamber  and  closet,  7  by  8  feet:  o.  girls'  bed- 
chamber,  7  by  7  feet :  p.  master  and  mistress's  room  : 
q.  q.  closets:    r.  parlour,   16  by  20:    s.    friends'  bed- 


INSERT  FOLDOUT  HERE 


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PI  :<v: 


(      185     ) 

room  16  by  20  :  t.  kitchen,  with  sink,  and  store-room 
u.  w,     Whole  front,  50  feet. 

The  areas  are  worth  noticing: 

Fig«  1,  192  feet.  The  least  farmer'^  house  :  same 
as  a  good  cottage. 

Fig.  2,  1080  feet.  The  farmer's  habitation  ;  the 
most  common. 

Fig.  3,  1520feet.     A  wealthy  farmer's  house. 
Fig.  4,  2000  feet.     Ditto. 

It  is  a  rural  absurdity  to  entertain  the  idea  of  more 
than  one  story  to  a  farmer's  habitation — or  to  any  habi- 
tation in  the  country,  less  than  a  proud  palace. 

EXPLANATION  OF  PLATE  XV. 

Fig.  5. 
Plan  of  a  tzvo-stonj  house: — 50  feet  long,  20  feet 
wide  ;  passage,  10  by  20;  two  rooms,  20  feet  square  > 
chimney  in  each  room,  at  pleasure. 


(     186     ) 

Fig.  6. 
Elevation  of  the  same  two-story  habitation  of  all 
show  and  little  use  ;  but,  withal,  very  inconvenient,  and 

very  costly. 

Fig.  7. 
Elevation  of  the  farmer's  one-story  habitation^  of 
which  the  plan  is  in  pi.  XIV,  fig.  2.  a  size  and  form 
suitable  to  farms  the  most  common,  and  which  are 
cheap,  strong,  convenient,  wholesome,  and  the  best 
adapted  for  the  purposes  of  a  farmer's  family,  and  the 
views  and  employments  of  country  house-wifery. 


Epitome,  p.  142,  -j    Speaks  of  the  uses  of  the   Vi- 


1 


151,  &c.  of  the  size,  Stc.  of  the  Vi- 
nery, 

152,  refers  to  PI.  XIV. 

If  any  more  is  wanted  of  Vineries,  refer  at  large 
to  Speachley's  book  treating  of  them  in  England,  8vo. 


ZXtnTKpy 
l^.C.Btate  College 


INDEX. 


XXPRICOTS,  sorts,  to  plant  and  train,  3,  128. 

ripen  when  there  is  little  other  fruit,    128 j 
■when  and  how  head  down,  4,  5. 
when  very  young,  make  tarts,    129. 
bear  best  where  the  ground  is  hard,    129. 

ALMONDS,  sorts,  training,  67. 
cured  in  s;ind,  68. 

dwarfs  eaiily  covered  against  spring  frosts,   67. 
in  clay,  cold  soil,    146. 

AMERICA,  the  climate  favourable  to  fruits,    12S. 
its  garden  and  orchard  fruits,    128,  133. 
its  country  habitations,    134,  138,  148. 
the  gardens,    139,  148. 

country  habitations,  old  and  modern  compared, !  48. 
bird*  inoffensive  or  injurious  to  crops,    155. 

APPLES,  to  harvest  and  store,  90,92. 

scarce  in  America  from  neglect,   131. 

AUTUMN,  an  objection  to  prune  then,  5. 

BARBERRIES,  sorts,  how  propagate  and  prune,  58,  59. 
attract  singing  birds,  their  use,   53,  59. 
BOOKS,  on  husbandry,  advantageous  to  husbandmen,   125. 

BUDDING,  general  account  of  it,  74. 

time  and  signs  of  the  buds  taking,  81. 

of  cutting  oft'  the  stocks,   n  1 . 
particular  modes  of  budding,    107. 
the  various  tools,    107. 
times  for  budding,    108. 

BIRDS,  Sec.  advantageous  or  disadvantageous  to  husbandry,  I  55. 

CATERPILLAR,  a  sort  peculiar  to  gooseberries,  52,  53. 
CANKER  described,  and  cure,  .95,  94. 


INDEX. 

CHESNUTS,  sorts  and  propagation,  68  to  70. 

plant  out  in  autumn,  head  down  in  time,  70. 

CHERRIES,  see  the  advertisement,  ante,  find  American^  128. 
ingredient  in  cherry  brandy,  128. 

COMPOSITION,  always  apply  to  parts  cut,  5. 

liquid,  94 — powder,    100,  106, 
experience  of  it,  and  approved  abroad,  114. 
has  effected  vast  improvements,    126. 

COVERING  FRUIT-TREES  AGAINST  FROST,  5,  6. 

CURRANTS,  the  sorts,   5  3. 

to  continue  in  Jnne  to  November,   54. 

jelly  of  black  currants,  54. 

black  currants  as  used  in  Ireland,  54. 

to  propagate,   55,  56. 

prune  and  head  down,   56,  57. 

dwarf  cnrr:i, It-trees  preferred,  58. 

keep  clear  of  suckers,   5  8. 

CELIyARS  in  the  country  best  under  an  out-house,    1 49. 

CiDER  scarce  in  America  from  neglect,    131. 

CUCUMBERS  assisted  in  a  vinery,    144. 

DISEASES  OF  FRUIT-TREES,  99,  lOO. 

DWARF  FRUIT-TREES  preferable  to  Espalier,    11. 

in  a  vinery,    142. 

ESPALIER,  inferoir  to  dwarf  trees,    11. 

EXPERIMENTS,  comparative,  in  pruning  pears,  24,  25,  26. 
in    heading   down,    composition,     powder, 
Sec.    109,  113,  126. 

ENGRAVINGS,  the  plates  explained,   167. 

FIGS,  sorts,  pruning  and  culture,  40. 

the  fruit  and  wo' d  matured  in  a  vinery,    H'i. 

covering  the  trees  against  frost,  43,  45. 

milk  oozing,   how  stopt,  44. 

to  train  iiorizoiitally,  45. 

their  spurs,  leave  to  grow,  45, 

to  shelter  against  winter,  45. 

to  forV)-ard  their  ripening  early,  44. 

FROST,  late  in  England,  31. 


INDEX. 

FORSYTH,  his  merit,  and  treatise  recomiTiencled,   125. 

his  composition,  heading,  and  tiaining,  superior  I 
and  have  effictcd  astoniihing  improve- 
ments,   126. 

FRUIT,  when  to  begin  thinning  it,    11. 
of  America,    125. 
dried  in  kilns,    129. 
rule  for  having  enough,    141,  142. 

FRUIT-TREES,  defects  repaired,   99. 

FARM- YARD,  in  full  view  from  the  house,    140. 

GRAFTING,  74. 

signs  of  the  bucls  having  taken.  8  I, 

time  and  manner,  of  the  st>5ck  in  budding,  81. 

GARDEN,  the  site  to  prefer,  82.     Soil  -^nd  form,  83. 

ploughinc,s  and  digi^ing  before  planiino,   84. 

water  convera.i.t— irrigating,  ^c.   84. 

walks  and  drains,  8  5,  86. 

borders,  walks,  paths,  H6, 

pits  for  hot-beds,   86,  87. 

plan  of  the  garden,  to  be  kept,  87. 

•walls,  foundation,  height  for  kitchen  "sriun,  87. 

size,  brick  best  in  walls.  88. 

in  America,    UO — divide  and     i'l?^;'-,    I4l. 

GOOSEBERRIES,  sorts,  and  ho^v  raised,  47,  48.  19,  51. 

soil  rich,  and  cU.nged  olien,  4^, 

shade,  49,  3l.     Thinnin^,  5l. 

cu:  down  and  train,  49,  .'•0.  52. 

fruit  on  second  year's  W(.»d,  49. 

modern  imprfivcment',   in  watering,   n.  : 
£0il,  and  thinnin,',  5  1. 

early  f rd  late  fn'it,  wrt  nd  to,  5l,  ^2. 

garc'T.shea.'-  iiijiiriou';,  :;2. 

a  pcic-eberr)  eaily  catieiplllar,  =2,  33 
GUM,  described  and  cured,  94,  95- 
GRAPES,  trained  fcrpentine,    142. 
GREEN  GAGE,  the  best  stock  for  it,    HG. 

HEADED  LOWN  trees,  how  superior  in  f  uit,  24,  2r. 
rhesnuts  to  he  well  roOvcd,  70. 
particulars  of  pitfercnce,    11^,  i20. 


INDEX. 

HIDE-BOUND  QUINXES,  to  care,  47. 

IIABITAriONS,  in  the  country  of  America,    134,  l4o. 

of  more  than  one  story  avoid,  as  being  in- 
convenient and  dear,    136  to  138,  139. 

of  only  one  floor  and  no  upstairs,  of  great 
fame,    138. 

HOT-HOUSES  avoid  in  the  country  by  husbandmen,  144,  145. 

INSECTS,  9  6,  98,  5  3. 

LIME  and  LIME-WATER  against  insects,  53. 
LODGINGS  for  strangers,  best  out-house,    149. 

MILDEW  and  BLIGHTS,  the  nature  and  remedy,  96. 

MULBERRY,   sorts,  and  how  propa3;ated,  64,  65. 
thinning- and  training,   65. 

restored  and  impioved  by  the  composition,  66. 
decayed,  head  down,  the  fruit  improved,  66. 

MELONS,  Peppers,  occ.  made  and  secured  in  a  vinery,    144« 

NECTARINES,   17,  131. 

NOTES  ON  AMERICAN  GARDENING,  Sec.   12«. 
NUTS,   but  little  cultivated  in  America,    133. 
NUISANCES  TO  CROPS,   l.-,6. 

ORCHARDS,  only  for  standard  fruit-rtrees,  88. 

the  size,  give  dung  every  two  or  three  years,  89. 
pare  and  wash  off  canker,  then  lay  on  composi- 
tion and  powder,  89,  90,  106. 
neglected  in  America,    131. 

ORANGE-TREES,  head  down,    116. 

OAKS,  an  important  particular  of  the  root,  120. 

PEACHES,  a  selection,   12. 

preparing  and  planting  the  stones,  14. 

heading  down  the  tree,    15. 

the  heath  peach,  most  excellent,  130. 

fed  to  hogs,  ate  with  milk,  make  brandy,    129. 

in  succession  from  July  to  November,  129, 

dried  in  kilns,  fed,  exported,    129. 


TNDEX. 

PEACHES,   clingstones  called  pavies,   129. 

peachery,  a  liouse  to  save  them,    130,  142,  143. 
cultivation  neglected,  130. 

plant  yearly,  as  if  peas;   autumn.     Then  always 
abound  against  storms,  worms,  8cc.    i48. 

PEAS,  sown  broad-cast,  141. 

straw,  rich  food,  141.  ' 

PEARS,  a  selection,   17. 

cau;ion  in  storing  them,  21. 

choice  from  the  nursery,  22. 

heading  and  pruning,   2  3. 

experiments  proving  the  great  superiority    in    pears 

from  pruning,  Sec.   23,  24. 
storing  and  keeping,  90,  92. 
few,  and  no  perry  in  America,  132. 
dwarfed  on  quince  stocks,  13 J. 

POWDER,  Mr.  Forsyth's  discovery,  SB,  94. 
PLUMS,  selection,  7. 

cautiotis  in  planting,    S,  9. 

heading  down,  9. 

training,  9. 

trench,  when  planted  out,  11. 

dwarfed,    1  1. 

cover  as  apricots  against  frorst,  1 1. 

PRUNING,  always  followed  with  the  compositions,  Sec. 
autumnal  not  to  be  preferred,  62. 

PLANTING,  cautions  of  Plants,  89. 

QUINCES,  t!ie  best,  to  plant  cuttings,  the  distance,  46. 
mulch  the  plants  and  often  water,  46. 
plant  forward  ones  in  autumn,  46. 
some  raised  from  grafts,  46. 
prune,  and  old  ones  head  down,  46. 
apply  the  composition,  47', 
hide-bound,  to  cure,  47. 

plant  them  distant  from  apples  and  pears,  47. 
in  the  American  orchard  or  garden,  132. 

RASPBERRIES,  sorts,  and  how  propagated,  60. 
in  America,   123,  147. 
the  ract;  delicate  in  planting,  6!. 


INDEX. 

RA3P3ERIIIES,  plant  in  moist  weather,  61. 

water  frequently,  having  trenched,  61. 

small  planti  tie  tof^ether,  others  stake,  65. 

autumnal  pruning  inferior,  how  to  prune,  62. 

remove  planes  every  five  years,  63.  ^^ 

number  of  shoots  to  retain  on  removals,  SW, 
RUST,  meaning  honey-dew,  mill-dew,  blignt,  95,  96. 

RtJQ.'',  the  tap-root,  very  important  particulars  of  them,  120. 

STANDARD  FRUIT-TREES,  the  most  suitable  to  Ame- 
rica,  10. 
STRAWBERRIES,  in  America,  how  treated,  128,  147. 

SEEDS,  rules  for  assuring  enough,   141,  142. 

TREES,  transplant  in  their  forn^er  position,    10. 
defects  and  injuries  repuirsd,  ^^9. 

irriportance  of  tap-roots,  and  that  they  grow  again,  120. 
f nut- trees,  defects  repairea,  9i). 

TRENCH  GaOUND  before  trees  are  planted,   60. 

TIMBER  TREES  treated  of  by  Anderson,  154. 

VINES,  selected,   32. 

how  to  choo'-e  cuttings,  33. 

train  and  prune,  33 — serpentine  form,  34. 

the  composition  used  on  every  cut,  38. 

if  It  bleeds,  api^ly  the  powder,  38. 

when  and  how  watered   39. 

enemies  in  insects  and  birds,  39. 

leaves  not  to  be  stripped  .)fi\  39. 

currants  in  America,    128. 

very  natural  to  America,    133. 

VINERY,  how  built  and  used,    i42,  15  1. 

WALNUT-TREES,  sorts,  training,  use  of  composition,  Sec.  72. 
pay  a  great  rent,   73. 
gathering,  curing,  kepping  thc' fruit,   73. 
fruit  shrivelling,  steep  in  milk  for  use,  73t 
formerly  abounded  in  America,   133. 

WHITEWASHING  best  in  the  country,    134. 
THE  END. 


